Misbehavin

A little late for the original topic, but since this thread was bumped back to the top...

The S197's aren't like the older Foxes in regards to UDP. I went that route years ago in my old Fox, and always had issues with the charging system. Even more so when the aftermarket amp and electric fans were thrown into the mix.

There's a certain amount of "buffer" built into the output of the S197 alternator, when the Fox alternator was barely enough to keep everything charged off the showroom floor. About the only real thing I've noticed with the UDP installed on my '06 is that the power steering seems to be a touch more slugglish around idle speeds.

Now granted my '06 has the Shaker 500, and not a Shaker 1000. However, there isn't a huge difference in the power output of the two factory setups, and the Shaker 1000 doesn't even begin to approach a true 1000 watt output.

Does the UDP make a huge power difference? No. However, the engine seems to rev a little more freely, and you rid yourself of that rusty crankshaft damper. Once you get the factory unit off, you'll be surprised at how heavy it is compared to the underdrive unit. For anyone making the swap make sure you use a dab of sealant as the instructions recommend. I've seen plenty of people skip this and end up with oil leaks.

stealth_GT

I am gonna take a risk and do these along with cams and delete plates.. I say "risk" because I may not even feel the HP with them alone, but gonna take a chance and say that with everything combined- should be a solid 30 whp with the addition of a Brenspeed tune. Not trying to run 11s or anything.. just a solid high 12 this summer on street tires.

Gonna scrap the shaker 1000 headunit/sub while I am at it.

Nuke

If you're doing CAI & Brenspeed tune, cams, delete plates and UDP's you're probably looking at mid to upper 30's in RWHP gains. Add LT's to those cams and and you could probably add another 10-15 RWHP as the LT's and cams really compliment one another.

stealth_GT

whoops.. forgot to add my sig.

q8stang

i can show you my ase cert's and ford cert's and a mustang wiring diagram i understand and respect the fact that you are an electrical engenner and have many years of experience to back it up but i think automotive electrical wasnt covered in an electrical engneering degree.

on newer cars when the out put of the alternator is lower than 14v the the systems respond to it (weather ecu controlled or a voltage regulator) will increase the magnetic field to the rotor which alone will cause more drag on the engine which will make it "work" harder . on some cars minimal gains can be achieved if you have a fully charged battery.
and when you said the battery will take care of any "slack" when at idle this will only put your battery in constant cycle which will dramaticlly reduce the life of it

Batenswytch

I have yet to put the UDP's on there... I'm waiting until spring break, have taken that week off as vacation time, and hopefully I'll get those on then, along with the silicone lower coolant hoses, get the stripes painted on, and the hood pins installed....

I have sooooo much to do on Spring Break - car stuff (cut and polish w/a buffer, full detailing, rotate tires, change oil, etc etc.), break and plant a garden, rework all my flower beds and enrich the soil, edge the sidewalks and driveway (about 250 yards of edging with a string trimmer) mow... the list goes on and on... but the cars are at the top of my list.

PS Like the new sig Nuke!