How much N/A whp is possible?
#23
14.5 and the cam is a stage 2 nsr comp cam.. nothing special.. so just think with heads she would be a solid 10.50 car for sure.. the way it is now i should click off some 10.90's if i drive it...lol i dont power shift it and i lay down a 11.26 and i left at 6200 rpm.. i will leave at 6700rpm this summer..
#24
#25
The way I see it, the more crap one has bolted on to the car, the more likely something will break eventually. Especially with a fine tune that is nit picky.
Why bolt on a dozen or so parts on and gain a 55whp, when you can bolt on a simple 100+ whp, with ONE big mod? Especially for a daily driver/weekend warrior...
Why bolt on a dozen or so parts on and gain a 55whp, when you can bolt on a simple 100+ whp, with ONE big mod? Especially for a daily driver/weekend warrior...
#26
The way I see it, the more crap one has bolted on to the car, the more likely something will break eventually. Especially with a fine tune that is nit picky.
Why bolt on a dozen or so parts on and gain a 55whp, when you can bolt on a simple 100+ whp, with ONE big mod? Especially for a daily driver/weekend warrior...
Why bolt on a dozen or so parts on and gain a 55whp, when you can bolt on a simple 100+ whp, with ONE big mod? Especially for a daily driver/weekend warrior...
#28
Thats the only reason I was considering going N/A......nothing like an all motor screamer, but then again there is nothing like the wine of twin screw.
#29
One of my classes next semester is motor repair/building. Still trying to convince the instructor to "lend" me the 5.4L we've got laying around but I don't think he's gonna budge lol.
When it comes to daily driver though, I'd stick to a blower/exhaust/tune.
(-;
Sorry to say, but once my GT is built up.. I may be getting a 2012 Challenger SRT-8 (hopefully with the 6.4) and leave it I/E/Tune, daily driver.
#30
I'm at 330rwhp with the goodies in my sig. Skip the heads unless you plan on going big in the future. I plan on eventually going to forced induction, but I'm taking the longer, more expensive route. I will go forged internals first and raise the compression to get the most out of N/A. At that point I will have a motor built to handle higher HP than the 450-500whp limit of the factory rods. My tuner assures me he has 800+hp forced induction cars running 12:1 compression on pump gas....I would expect rwhp in the high 300's with that kind of compression and the mods I already have.
FWIW, I lost some drivability with my setup. Between 2000-2500, I lost around 50ft/lbs of torque......this is the tradeoff you will make with a cam that you wouldn't have to make with forced induction. I think the heads probably contributed to the low end loss as well.
FWIW, I lost some drivability with my setup. Between 2000-2500, I lost around 50ft/lbs of torque......this is the tradeoff you will make with a cam that you wouldn't have to make with forced induction. I think the heads probably contributed to the low end loss as well.
To the OP, tell us how much you want to spend and it would help to guide you in the best direction (power vs. budget). Big power can be had, the biggest mistake you can make is to just start buying parts. When it comes down to making N/A power people seem to forget it's not rocket science. Sure it's a new platform, but power is made the same ways. Your upper echelon of engine builders understand this and there are some pretty complex things they work on when it comes to intake manifold design, heads, and cams which are the make or break portion of your build. If you go to an all motor route just remember it is definitely a give and take, you give it up down low to make big power up high.