dstang10

Well with all this talk about the 5.0 and the numbers that it will produce makes me want to get some more HP out of my 10' gt. Right now I don't know if I want to go N/A or FI. I know with a supercharger I can make 450+whp. I want to know what kind of numbers and 1/4 mile times i could get from intake, tune, LT headers, UDP's, and a mild cam. The goal is to make a faster Daily driver.

07 GT E UPP

Well dstang here's my experience and 2 cents.... Let me say from the outset that I was really determined to stay NA and ultimately end up with some meaningfull horsepower numbers for my daily driver. Well, while I think I did, all I can honestly say is that it sure cost me moocho ($$$) to get there. Running out of things to do (LOL) , I have since caved-in and finally went FI and I'm extremely pleased with the outcome. So at this point, all I can say is that I would definately do things a little differently today - if I could do them all over again !!
Anyway, the New 2011 5.0 GT will have approx. 412 Hp at the flywheel which is about 350 HP at the rear wheels. Before FI, I was able to get 348 RWHP with all the Mods that you mentioned, plus a 1 pce aluminum DS, 4:10 gears, FRPP 62mm throttle body etc. on a Mustang Dyno. In my opinion, I would think that with the FRPP C & C Ported Heads you could possibley squeeze out a little more, and end up with maybe around 350 - 375 RWHP and that's about it. So while it's a big cash outlay, I would definately recommend going FI right off that bat. Have Fun....

Nuke

If I recall, someone was pushing in the very high 300's. From what I've read, you'd end up spending more to get even close to a NA 400 RWHP 4.6L than if you went FI and, because of all the internal engine work, you're reliability would likely suffer.

With an intake, tune, LT headers, UDP's, and a mild cam you're probably looking at roughly 315-320 RWHP.

Mudflap

Yeah I would only recommend going NA if its just something that you think is cool and are interested in. If you are looking for fast and fairly reliable HP gains, just put a blower on there and have it over with. Either route will decimate your warranty on anything engine or drivetrain related.

breathegood

I'm at 330rwhp with the goodies in my sig. Skip the heads unless you plan on going big in the future. I plan on eventually going to forced induction, but I'm taking the longer, more expensive route. I will go forged internals first and raise the compression to get the most out of N/A. At that point I will have a motor built to handle higher HP than the 450-500whp limit of the factory rods. My tuner assures me he has 800+hp forced induction cars running 12:1 compression on pump gas....I would expect rwhp in the high 300's with that kind of compression and the mods I already have.

FWIW, I lost some drivability with my setup. Between 2000-2500, I lost around 50ft/lbs of torque......this is the tradeoff you will make with a cam that you wouldn't have to make with forced induction. I think the heads probably contributed to the low end loss as well.

Torch Red GT

Wouldn't going full bolt on, be significantly more reliable than a supercharger?

breathegood

Why? I would think that if properly installed and tuned, it wouldn't make a difference N/A or F/I.

Diabolical!

Nope.

shakrr

does 450 to 500 hp range hook up on the street?

Torch Red GT

So a mustang with exhaust, intake and email tune from a reputable tuner would not be much more reliable then a supercharged mustang with reputable tune?