Notices
GT S197 General Discussion This section is for technical discussions pertaining specifically to the V8 variation of the 2005 and newer Ford Mustang.

Forged Rotating Assembly

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-03-2010, 09:13 AM
  #1  
MachineHead155
Thread Starter
 
MachineHead155's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 35
Default Forged Rotating Assembly

I have a 2008 Mustang GT and I'm considering the Edelbrock supercharger from Brenspeed that puts out 520 HP at the crank.

Now I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that at least one or two of you would recommend getting my rotating assembly changed out with forged if I want that kind of power.

My question is, assuming I already have the parts, how much money are we talking here in terms of labor to have this done? I'm perfectly aware that this would vary quite a bit by region and shop to shop. So just give me a general ballpark. Will it be under or over $2000?

Thanks.
MachineHead155 is offline  
Old 01-03-2010, 09:34 AM
  #2  
MachineHead155
Thread Starter
 
MachineHead155's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 35
Default

Okay so I just got done reading another thread and I'm under the impression that doing anything major to the stock engine may not be the best idea for reliability reasons.

So lets say I want 500 HP. I'm assuming that'll be under 450 at the wheels. Am I correct? And what SC system would you guys recommend for that kind of power that doesn't run me the risk of my motor going kablooey? (twin screw or roots type is prefereable)

Last edited by MachineHead155; 01-03-2010 at 09:37 AM.
MachineHead155 is offline  
Old 01-03-2010, 10:12 AM
  #3  
dysan
2nd Gear Member
 
dysan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 250
Default

You can still get the e-force blower and use it on the stock block. Many people have done that with great results. Just keep the power around 450 or less at the wheels and get a GOOD tune and you should be fine.
dysan is offline  
Old 01-03-2010, 10:47 AM
  #4  
MachineHead155
Thread Starter
 
MachineHead155's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 35
Default

Originally Posted by dysan
You can still get the e-force blower and use it on the stock block. Many people have done that with great results. Just keep the power around 450 or less at the wheels and get a GOOD tune and you should be fine.
Thanks for the input. If I decide to keep the motor stock, I will probably go with a Kenne Bell blower. Reason being is because of all SC makers, KB seems to be the most knowledgeable. A few months ago I read most of their articles on their website and they seem to really know what they're talking about. They actually say that, provided you keep the HP at realistic levels on a stock engine, putting a twin screw SC actually puts less stress on the rods because you don't have to rev the engine as high to get full boost. Supposedly that's why they don't like centri's because they rely on high RPM's to get full boost. The same goes for a NA engine since you need high RPM to get the most out of a non-SC engine. Anyone here disagree?

This car being my DD, I need a kit from a company who knows best.
MachineHead155 is offline  
Old 01-03-2010, 11:37 AM
  #5  
hammeron
6th Gear Member
 
hammeron's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nicely done
Posts: 11,881
Default

nothing wrong with that, lots of happy
kenne bell owners out there.



Originally Posted by MachineHead155
I will probably go with a Kenne Bell blower.
hammeron is offline  
Old 01-03-2010, 12:05 PM
  #6  
BruceH
5th Gear Member
 
BruceH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ......
Posts: 2,057
Default

......

Last edited by BruceH; 01-02-2011 at 01:18 PM.
BruceH is offline  
Old 01-03-2010, 02:44 PM
  #7  
MachineHead155
Thread Starter
 
MachineHead155's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 35
Default

Going back to my original question, what would be the ballpark price on getting a forged rotating assembly installed if that's what I decided to do (labor only)?
MachineHead155 is offline  
Old 01-03-2010, 03:36 PM
  #8  
hammeron
6th Gear Member
 
hammeron's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nicely done
Posts: 11,881
Default

assuming you are dropping the car off at an
engine builders shop, i'll guess between $2000
and $3000 for labor.
hammeron is offline  
Old 01-03-2010, 04:14 PM
  #9  
dysan
2nd Gear Member
 
dysan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 250
Default

Welp...I had my stock block turned into a 302 stroker and with all the other things that I ended up doing along with it, converted trans input shaft to 26 spline, spec 3+ clutch, got a SCT X3 tuner, stainless valves, new guides drainback valves, windage tray & modified oil pickup and other things that all have to happen it came to nearly $13k when I was only expecting 6-7k in the beginning.

I know my engine and trans are ready for some good boost after I get the work paid off but it just means I have to wait longer than expected. I just wanted to build the motor first rather than boost it, pop it, then build it.

Plenty of people are boosted on their stock blocks with no issues, just be sure you go to a reliable tuner that won't try to just get you as much power as possible and not keep your engine alive.
dysan is offline  
Old 01-03-2010, 04:56 PM
  #10  
MachineHead155
Thread Starter
 
MachineHead155's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 35
Default

Originally Posted by dysan
Welp...I had my stock block turned into a 302 stroker and with all the other things that I ended up doing along with it, converted trans input shaft to 26 spline, spec 3+ clutch, got a SCT X3 tuner, stainless valves, new guides drainback valves, windage tray & modified oil pickup and other things that all have to happen it came to nearly $13k when I was only expecting 6-7k in the beginning.

I know my engine and trans are ready for some good boost after I get the work paid off but it just means I have to wait longer than expected. I just wanted to build the motor first rather than boost it, pop it, then build it.

Plenty of people are boosted on their stock blocks with no issues, just be sure you go to a reliable tuner that won't try to just get you as much power as possible and not keep your engine alive.
Um...yeah. I'm not looking to go crazy. My power goals are pretty strait forward and I'm confident that just a forged rotating assembly would be more than enough. In fact I probably wouldn't even have to get the whole assembly changed. Forged pistons and H-Beam rods would be perfect. Stock crank can probably stay.
MachineHead155 is offline  


Quick Reply: Forged Rotating Assembly



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:11 PM.