Notices
GT S197 General Discussion This section is for technical discussions pertaining specifically to the V8 variation of the 2005 and newer Ford Mustang.

Blew the motor - pics to come

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-10-2010, 10:39 AM
  #21  
rustic2169
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
rustic2169's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 68
Default

Well the deal is, I'm getting the 4.6L 3V forged short block from ford racing. That is $4300, the labor is gonna be $1800. I also damaged the heads but the good news is, this is a mustang performance shop and they are doing everything to keep me from going broke. They found a set of heads with 20k mi on them they are sending to the machine shop to check, if they are good then I am only spending 4-500 on those. The S/C is fine, they took it apart and I saw them spinning the rotors and they are just flushing it out to get the metal out that was sucked through the intake. They are gonna custom dyno tune it for $300. Finally, my clutch is done. Almost down to the rivets. They have a used RAM HD clutch with is in much better condition than mine for $150.

Used is not always the best, but I'm almost fully tapped out with all of this. So in the end, I'm looking at 7.6k total to get back to running. Not too bad considering it could have been much worse and I'll have a brand new forged bottom end this time.
rustic2169 is offline  
Old 01-10-2010, 10:43 AM
  #22  
rustic2169
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
rustic2169's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 68
Default

Originally Posted by cobra443
When I installed my BAP it stated on the instructions to leave it set to full rich. Did they specifically tell you to set it there, or that it 'should" be safe. Also the weather played a role in this I'm sure, along with the serious load on the engine at that speed.
Brenspeeds instructions say to set in the middle, or 50 if you are looking at the dial, but talking to Seth, he told me I guess it was before the summer that 30 is fine as well. But no lower. Now as I said, I am new to the boost scene so I wasn't factoring in running lean in the winter. The truth is, now correct me if I am wrong, but everyone runs more lean in the winter due to fuel density from the extreme cold.
rustic2169 is offline  
Old 01-10-2010, 10:44 AM
  #23  
gzmo
2nd Gear Member
 
gzmo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: 561, FL
Posts: 337
Default

Sorry to hear about the motor, but it is good to know that your getting yourself situated and fixing the problem. Good luck with everything.
gzmo is offline  
Old 01-10-2010, 10:55 AM
  #24  
Riptide
6th Gear Member
 
Riptide's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montaner
Posts: 6,193
Default

The winter blend gasoline also ignites easier from what I've heard.
Riptide is offline  
Old 01-10-2010, 03:45 PM
  #25  
Mudflap
5th Gear Member
 
Mudflap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 3,062
Default

My BAP is pegged rich, which is where the install shop left it. I asked Brenspeed and they said just leave it there. I don't know that running a GT500 pump would have caused this NOT to happen. I'm going to go ahead and guess it still would have blown up. Remember at high speeds like that, you also are running at the upper end of the tire's ability to stay on the rim. This is why tires have speed ratings. What happens is they eventually will separate due to centrifugal force. Its no mystery what would occur if this happened. I'm not trying to preach here dude, but going that fast on a public road is retarded. Had you been caught, you would have lost your license and probably would have gotten jail time. Guess you lucked out this time. Sorry about the car. Pay to play.

Last edited by Mudflap; 01-10-2010 at 03:48 PM.
Mudflap is offline  
Old 01-10-2010, 05:24 PM
  #26  
rustic2169
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
rustic2169's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 68
Default

Originally Posted by Mudflap
I'm not trying to preach here dude, but going that fast on a public road is retarded. Had you been caught, you would have lost your license and probably would have gotten jail time.
As I said, I'm 27 years old and I know what is stupid and retarded. I also stated that I take responsibility for what I do, so I don't need people to try to act like my dad. I would be willing to bet 75% or more of mustang owners have gone over 100 on public roads at least once in their lifetime. But thanks for your concern.

And you are correct, pay to play.
rustic2169 is offline  
Old 01-10-2010, 05:36 PM
  #27  
JDWalton
5th Gear Member
 
JDWalton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 2,612
Default

Hey, sorry to hear about this. Makes you wish you had gone forged before hand no? I'm planning about 3 to 4k for my forged / stroked to 5.0 build.

That aside, I belive my BAP is set same as yours was. When I was talking to Brenspeed before while having some issues they told me to adjust it to about 3/4 of what it can do. Let us know how it all goes for ya.

Any chance your inlet tube collapsed? At 9.5 were near the max and you had perfect conditions to make it happen.

Last edited by JDWalton; 01-10-2010 at 06:04 PM.
JDWalton is offline  
Old 01-10-2010, 06:20 PM
  #28  
Simon1
5th Gear Member
 
Simon1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Redding, CA
Posts: 4,552
Default

Originally Posted by rustic2169
Well the deal is, I'm getting the 4.6L 3V forged short block from ford racing. That is $4300, the labor is gonna be $1800. I also damaged the heads but the good news is, this is a mustang performance shop and they are doing everything to keep me from going broke. They found a set of heads with 20k mi on them they are sending to the machine shop to check, if they are good then I am only spending 4-500 on those. The S/C is fine, they took it apart and I saw them spinning the rotors and they are just flushing it out to get the metal out that was sucked through the intake. They are gonna custom dyno tune it for $300. Finally, my clutch is done. Almost down to the rivets. They have a used RAM HD clutch with is in much better condition than mine for $150.

Used is not always the best, but I'm almost fully tapped out with all of this. So in the end, I'm looking at 7.6k total to get back to running. Not too bad considering it could have been much worse and I'll have a brand new forged bottom end this time.
What happened to the heads?
Simon1 is offline  
Old 01-11-2010, 08:16 AM
  #29  
Diabolical!
5th Gear Member
 
Diabolical!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 4,491
Default

Originally Posted by rustic2169
The truth is, now correct me if I am wrong, but everyone runs more lean in the winter due to fuel density from the extreme cold.
It's actually the other way around. Everyone runs a bit more lean in the winter due to AIR density from the extreme cold.
Diabolical! is offline  
Old 01-11-2010, 08:56 AM
  #30  
AmericanSpeed
5th Gear Member
 
AmericanSpeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 2,031
Default

Rustic, you can get the aluminator 3V shortblock for supercharged application from Tousley Ford for $4000 shipped. Call Tousley Ford and ask for Steve. That's what he quoted me for it and a lot of other people as well.
AmericanSpeed is offline  


Quick Reply: Blew the motor - pics to come



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:32 AM.