Blew the motor - pics to come
01-11-2010, 06:34 PM
#41
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
Man I envy you guys who have the money to just fix it right away when you blow an engine. I'd have to save for two years before I could afford to buy a built motor. 
I don't see why you would need GT500 fuel pumps with the Stage 3. Look @ brenspeed's site. It comes with the KB BAP.
I don't see why you would need GT500 fuel pumps with the Stage 3. Look @ brenspeed's site. It comes with the KB BAP.
It was 16k when I purchased the blower, bam! Back down to 10 just like that.
I don't trust the BAP. It has got to stress the hell out of the stock pump. The BAP might last forever and the stock pump dies.
01-11-2010, 06:44 PM
#42
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Deep in the <3 of Tx
Posts: 3,925
I feel the same way. Over driving the stock pump can't be good I would think.
If I ever put on a s/c'er and the package came with a BAP (like the Brenspeed "throwback" paxton I've recently looked at) I'd have them substitute for a GT500 fuel pump and just pay the difference. I'd rather be safe (if not a little paranoid) than sorry.
Last edited by SirKnightTG; 01-11-2010 at 06:46 PM.
01-11-2010, 06:45 PM
#43
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
As I said, I'm 27 years old and I know what is stupid and retarded. I also stated that I take responsibility for what I do, so I don't need people to try to act like my dad. I would be willing to bet 75% or more of mustang owners have gone over 100 on public roads at least once in their lifetime. But thanks for your concern.
And you are correct, pay to play.
And you are correct, pay to play.
01-11-2010, 07:20 PM
#44
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Florida
Posts: 566
???
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When I had my engine tuned, following my whipple install, the tuner and I learned that the injectors were at 100% duty cycle by 6000 rpm. The car was tuned in 70F weather.
So if I were to drive it WOT at 20F, the air would be more dense than when the car was tuned, yet the fuel system cannot add the necessary fuel to compensate.
The tuner told me directly, do not drive hard in cold weather until you address the lack of fuel past 6000 rpms. He even went so far as to recommend I set the rev limiter at 5500 rpm when the mercury dips.
It sounds like your fuel system was just good enough for warm weather, like mine, but was not up to the task of maintaining the right A/F when the air gets more dense.
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When I had my engine tuned, following my whipple install, the tuner and I learned that the injectors were at 100% duty cycle by 6000 rpm. The car was tuned in 70F weather.
So if I were to drive it WOT at 20F, the air would be more dense than when the car was tuned, yet the fuel system cannot add the necessary fuel to compensate.
The tuner told me directly, do not drive hard in cold weather until you address the lack of fuel past 6000 rpms. He even went so far as to recommend I set the rev limiter at 5500 rpm when the mercury dips.
It sounds like your fuel system was just good enough for warm weather, like mine, but was not up to the task of maintaining the right A/F when the air gets more dense.
Do you attribute this to not enough fuel pump or injectors too small?
01-11-2010, 09:19 PM
#46
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,249
Sorry to hear. these stories are killing me and not letting me go the sc route. I still want to. But the cost of the sc kit and more possible problems to come are giving me headaches when I think about them.
Good luck on the repair.
Good luck on the repair.
01-11-2010, 11:09 PM
#47
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montaner
Posts: 6,193
FWIW noone knows the BAP was at fault here. It's speculatory. As is often the case when an engine blows it could have been x or y but you may never really know. I doubt the BAP is a problem if brenspeed sells it with those kits. But if you got the money to burn then why not get the upgraded pumps.
moose I agree 100% on having some savings. It would take me a long time to save up that much. If it ends up being me with the blown motor next time around I'm probably just going to get another stock one and try my luck again. Built engines are just ridiculously expensive.
Making 70K and being able to save up 10gs in 3 years or less? Hard to do that with a car payment and a house payment. If the car is paid off that helps a LOT. But most people just don't do it that way. They make the minimum payment and then take 5 years to get rid of the loan.
moose I agree 100% on having some savings. It would take me a long time to save up that much. If it ends up being me with the blown motor next time around I'm probably just going to get another stock one and try my luck again. Built engines are just ridiculously expensive.
Making 70K and being able to save up 10gs in 3 years or less? Hard to do that with a car payment and a house payment. If the car is paid off that helps a LOT. But most people just don't do it that way. They make the minimum payment and then take 5 years to get rid of the loan.
Last edited by Riptide; 01-11-2010 at 11:12 PM.
01-11-2010, 11:36 PM
#48
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Florida
Posts: 566
Relativly speaking, I think the average price of a forged modular short block is pretty reasonable. I have a 428 CJ motor in my other car that I built as a forged stroker, 465, I have an easy 10 grand in it. I don't think I could get close to the same price for an equivelant short block for my old school stuff, but don't get me wrong, I would love to pay $1500.00 for a stroked forged 4.6 motor! Just an after market 427 FE block (minus internals) will cost you what a 4.6 short block will run you or most likely more. But I digress, I know I'm playing with hand grenades!
01-12-2010, 05:02 AM
#49
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: WA
Posts: 109
01-12-2010, 07:31 AM
#50
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Florida
Posts: 566
I have the complete kit, injectors and pumps, I'm running a tune from Dyno tune performance in Chesapeake VA. I was askin you, wich one made you lean injectors or the pump? I have a slight bit of detonation in mine when it's really cold out, and I think mine is timing related because my tune is not lean and I have a wide band. I don't let it ping, it only does it at hard throttle when it's cold. I am going to get that fixed. I have to do some data logging.