estimated hp? what will i have with these mods
#12
I jsut looked they changed there line up a bit, there was three stages, also the Big ***** thumprs.
The current part number for ***** thumprs are 127020, sold at brenspeed:
http://www.brenspeed.com/127020.html
Also, brenspeed calls them a phase 2, the "Big" ones that I think did require springs were the phase 3s.
Pretty sure these get lumpy with alot of durration not as much lift as the SPRs
as a no spring required camshaft.
The current part number for ***** thumprs are 127020, sold at brenspeed:
http://www.brenspeed.com/127020.html
Also, brenspeed calls them a phase 2, the "Big" ones that I think did require springs were the phase 3s.
Pretty sure these get lumpy with alot of durration not as much lift as the SPRs
as a no spring required camshaft.
#15
Why did you get beehives then for NSR cams? If anything I would have thought you would get the regular springs comp makes, so the springs are the right height to keep the contact pressures where they need to be through the range of motion.
My understanding is its not that there just a "better spring" or anything like that, there application specific.
My understanding is its not that there just a "better spring" or anything like that, there application specific.
Last edited by JDWalton; 02-08-2010 at 09:55 PM.
#16
I jsut looked they changed there line up a bit, there was three stages, also the Big ***** thumprs.
The current part number for ***** thumprs are 127020, sold at brenspeed:
http://www.brenspeed.com/127020.html
Also, brenspeed calls them a phase 2, the "Big" ones that I think did require springs were the phase 3s.
Pretty sure these get lumpy with alot of durration not as much lift as the SPRs
as a no spring required camshaft.
The current part number for ***** thumprs are 127020, sold at brenspeed:
http://www.brenspeed.com/127020.html
Also, brenspeed calls them a phase 2, the "Big" ones that I think did require springs were the phase 3s.
Pretty sure these get lumpy with alot of durration not as much lift as the SPRs
as a no spring required camshaft.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...ry_Code=THMFW6
but the last is not for anything but a major build
and the 'stage 2' you are still good with stock springs it says but yeah i like the SPR line much better. They are built for gains over sound but still give you a good change in sound
#17
I just did some research, for your goal, see if you can send your cams back.. I mean you have the heads to do much better. For instance this cam:
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...=FRD3VCKXFISPR
Your doing ported heads, springs, phasers.... The NSR cams are just silly for your goal and the parts you have / are willing to do.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...=FRD3VCKXFISPR
Your doing ported heads, springs, phasers.... The NSR cams are just silly for your goal and the parts you have / are willing to do.
#18
I just did some research, for your goal, see if you can send your cams back.. I mean you have the heads to do much better. For instance this cam:
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...=FRD3VCKXFISPR
Your doing ported heads, springs, phasers.... The NSR cams are just silly for your goal and the parts you have / are willing to do.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...=FRD3VCKXFISPR
Your doing ported heads, springs, phasers.... The NSR cams are just silly for your goal and the parts you have / are willing to do.
#19
Now that makes me feel better, I have been looking at the stage 2 SPR cams and my build is real close to the OP's except he did not list headers/exh system, I just don't want to end up with a 2010 mustang that's crappy driving in town, (no low end torque) Thanks for posting
#20
Considering I got 330rwhp on an XFI stage 2 "power cam" with a similar mod list to yours with shorties and cats, I think 375whp is doable, but optimistic. I think something in the neighborhood of 350 is more realistic, but wouldn't be surprised if it's lower. Expect to loose some serious low end grunt between the heads, cams, and ORX. It's livable, but I no longer like to drive the car below ~2500rpm in any gear. Knowing what I know now, I would probably leave the IMRC plates in there to make up for some of the intake velocity loss you will see with the new heads. I would be willing to sacrifice a few ponnies up top to regain some of the 50 ft/lbs I lost in the normal cruising range. Then again, I live at 6200', maybe better results can be had nearer to sea level where the ambient pressure is a little higher.
I asked my tuner what it would take to get 400whp N/A with what I already have, and he tells me stroked to ~300ci with a compression ratio of at least 11:1 would get it close....sort of limits the options for boost later on if you want to go that direction eventually. Unfortunately, these engines don't pick up a huge amount of top end horsepower from stroker kits. On the other hand, the torque curve is a lot flatter and they pick up a lot more low and mid-range grunt. So it comes down to how you want to drive the car. For a daily driver, stroker kit all the way. For a track car that spends most of its time in the top 1/3 of the RPM range, a stage 3 SPR cam will likely get you to 375-380 on the stock internals and ported heads.
I asked my tuner what it would take to get 400whp N/A with what I already have, and he tells me stroked to ~300ci with a compression ratio of at least 11:1 would get it close....sort of limits the options for boost later on if you want to go that direction eventually. Unfortunately, these engines don't pick up a huge amount of top end horsepower from stroker kits. On the other hand, the torque curve is a lot flatter and they pick up a lot more low and mid-range grunt. So it comes down to how you want to drive the car. For a daily driver, stroker kit all the way. For a track car that spends most of its time in the top 1/3 of the RPM range, a stage 3 SPR cam will likely get you to 375-380 on the stock internals and ported heads.
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