First two mods: SLP LM & SM Driveshaft
#1
First two mods: SLP LM & SM Driveshaft
So this week(end) was productive for installing my first two mods.
Installed SLP Loudmouths and Shaftmasters direct bolt on DS.
SLP's
Excellent quality
Excellent sound, yes it does drone but at least you get noticed now!
(Pics to come after I wash her up tomorrow)
Install was painless with 15mm bolts for the band clamps and a 13mm to remove the rear side muffler hanger. I spent more time aligning the tips then I did the install.
Shaftmasters DS
Followed the instructions that are similar to the older 2 piece DS and here are my comments:
Uninstall of the old driveshaft, virtually minutes to do (est. 15 mins)
Install of new ds, virtually minutes
Installation of rear bolts - hours.
Save yourself by doing the following:
Tools needed:
4 jack stands, jack
12mm 12pt socket for the front 4 bolts that you reuse
14mm socket with ext for the carrier (center mount)
10mm socket to remove the bolts at the diff
3/8" breaker bar
Helpful tools
ratcheting 12mm 12pt wrench
ratcheting 10mm 12pt wrench
10mm flare nut wrench for the bolts supplied with the DS (others mention a 12pt crows foot which is impossible to find).
It is virtually impossible to get a torque wrench on there as I just tightened the bejesus out of it.
Wow Factor: virtually none, here is where you feel it in 40 to 70 mph accel. I swear I can do 40-70 in less then 3 seconds now(ok might be a bit exaggerated). Is it worth it, hell yes, removing 20 pounds of rotational mass means a lot more then removing 20 pounds of dead weight.
Next mod: Whipple
Installed SLP Loudmouths and Shaftmasters direct bolt on DS.
SLP's
Excellent quality
Excellent sound, yes it does drone but at least you get noticed now!
(Pics to come after I wash her up tomorrow)
Install was painless with 15mm bolts for the band clamps and a 13mm to remove the rear side muffler hanger. I spent more time aligning the tips then I did the install.
Shaftmasters DS
Followed the instructions that are similar to the older 2 piece DS and here are my comments:
Uninstall of the old driveshaft, virtually minutes to do (est. 15 mins)
Install of new ds, virtually minutes
Installation of rear bolts - hours.
Save yourself by doing the following:
- Just throw the 10mm 12pt socket they give you into your toolbox as it's as useless as blind man being your lookout.
- DO remove the 40 year old loctite thats on them otherwise you'll go batty. The dried loctite stopped the bolts about half way in and just gummed everything up.
- Run the old bolts through the holes to clean out any gunk that might remain and start over.
- Added new loctite and installed again with no issues.
Tools needed:
4 jack stands, jack
12mm 12pt socket for the front 4 bolts that you reuse
14mm socket with ext for the carrier (center mount)
10mm socket to remove the bolts at the diff
3/8" breaker bar
Helpful tools
ratcheting 12mm 12pt wrench
ratcheting 10mm 12pt wrench
10mm flare nut wrench for the bolts supplied with the DS (others mention a 12pt crows foot which is impossible to find).
It is virtually impossible to get a torque wrench on there as I just tightened the bejesus out of it.
Wow Factor: virtually none, here is where you feel it in 40 to 70 mph accel. I swear I can do 40-70 in less then 3 seconds now(ok might be a bit exaggerated). Is it worth it, hell yes, removing 20 pounds of rotational mass means a lot more then removing 20 pounds of dead weight.
Next mod: Whipple
#2
congrats on the new mods. In the future I plan on doing a 1 piece drive shaft. What ever you do, resist the temptation of altering the headers or midpipe with the SLP LM with the exception of a catted prochamer. L/T and/or O/R midpipe with the SLP LM sound like crap.
#3
Wow Factor: virtually none, here is where you feel it in 40 to 70 mph accel. I swear I can do 40-70 in less then 3 seconds now(ok might be a bit exaggerated). Is it worth it, hell yes, removing 20 pounds of rotational mass means a lot more then removing 20 pounds of dead weight.
#4
Sure. The people that can say they can feel 10 hp difference are lying out their ***, who knows what it really free's up without a dyno run. shaftmasters says it gives 16 hp, if it gives 16HP that is equal to only 5% drivetrain loss. The reason it's not gaining crank hp is you're not doing anything to the motor to give it crank hp.
So lets look at it this way
Say most 2010's are dyno'd at 285 rwhp that is = 10% drivetrain loss
Assume DS does give 16 HP, again this wouldn't be motor this would be rwhp, this would equate drivetrain loss to be 5%.
So now lets think ahead:
Any motor hp increases you may do are now going to gain 5% to the rwhp thanks to reducing drivetrain loss by half.
Note: This math only works if SM actually dyno'd a car with those numbers in hand.
So lets look at it this way
Say most 2010's are dyno'd at 285 rwhp that is = 10% drivetrain loss
Assume DS does give 16 HP, again this wouldn't be motor this would be rwhp, this would equate drivetrain loss to be 5%.
So now lets think ahead:
Any motor hp increases you may do are now going to gain 5% to the rwhp thanks to reducing drivetrain loss by half.
Note: This math only works if SM actually dyno'd a car with those numbers in hand.
#8
Don't really need to drag this out but if you take 285/315 you get 10%, even 280 runs 12% these are not running 330 crank
#9
15 percent of 315 = 47.25, and if you subtract that from 315 that = 267.75. So, since most of these cars are dynoing at anywhere from 275-285 at the wheels, 15 percent of 330 = 49.5 and if you subtract that from 330 that = 280 to be right there in the middle.
If this is incorrect, than disregard everything I said haha
edit- in regards to what you said, manual transmissions tend to have a 15 percent loss of power between the crank and the wheels, the autos a bit more.
If this is incorrect, than disregard everything I said haha
edit- in regards to what you said, manual transmissions tend to have a 15 percent loss of power between the crank and the wheels, the autos a bit more.
Last edited by swat 79; 03-07-2010 at 06:45 PM.
#10
15 percent of 315 = 47.25, and if you subtract that from 315 that = 267.75. So, since most of these cars are dynoing at anywhere from 275-285 at the wheels, 15 percent of 330 = 49.5 and if you subtract that from 330 that = 280 to be right there in the middle.
If this is incorrect, than disregard everything I said haha
edit- in regards to what you said, manual transmissions tend to have a 15 percent loss of power between the crank and the wheels, the autos a bit more.
If this is incorrect, than disregard everything I said haha
edit- in regards to what you said, manual transmissions tend to have a 15 percent loss of power between the crank and the wheels, the autos a bit more.