How much Clutch is too much..
#1
How much Clutch is too much..
If your wondering I installed the Whipple HO kit at 30k. My car currently has about 36k..so 6000 miles later my clutch is going out. Well I'm in the market for a clutch which I need real bad. My stock clutch is slipping bad after going FI and some hard shifting/driving.
I've been doing some research and have narrowed it down to three kits. FYI this info comes from the AM web site.
The RAM Powergrip Clutch kits are the performance clutch for your street/strip Mustang. The Powergrip Mustang Clutch is designed for the 2005-2010 GT with the TR-3650 transmission. Some chatter will occur on takeoff.
I know the Mcleod guys will surely chime in here which is fine but I can not justify the 300 bucks for a clutch.
I'm pushing 462 RWHP with the Whipple HO kit if your wondering. I plan on going to strip a few times a year. I do plan on using the stock flywheel which I'm sure I will hear about.
My questions how much clutch is too much?
What are the effects of too much clutch?
Will I have to work the clutch when I'm driving on the street?
What are the disadvantages/advantages of going with a clutch that is rated 150-200 more Torque/HP than I'm running.
If you have any experience with any of these kits let me know. Just so you know the Corba guys really like te RAM Powergrip kit.
Thanks for your feedback.
Loots
I've been doing some research and have narrowed it down to three kits. FYI this info comes from the AM web site.
- Spec Stage 3+ (Not the puck style, Stage 3) HPTorque rating 850 ft-lbs
- Ram Powergrip HP/Torque rating upto 550 HP
The RAM Powergrip Clutch kits are the performance clutch for your street/strip Mustang. The Powergrip Mustang Clutch is designed for the 2005-2010 GT with the TR-3650 transmission. Some chatter will occur on takeoff.
- Ram Powergrip HD HP/Torque rating upto 650 HP
I know the Mcleod guys will surely chime in here which is fine but I can not justify the 300 bucks for a clutch.
I'm pushing 462 RWHP with the Whipple HO kit if your wondering. I plan on going to strip a few times a year. I do plan on using the stock flywheel which I'm sure I will hear about.
My questions how much clutch is too much?
What are the effects of too much clutch?
Will I have to work the clutch when I'm driving on the street?
What are the disadvantages/advantages of going with a clutch that is rated 150-200 more Torque/HP than I'm running.
If you have any experience with any of these kits let me know. Just so you know the Corba guys really like te RAM Powergrip kit.
Thanks for your feedback.
Loots
#2
#4
I know the Mcleod guys will surely chime in here which is fine but I can not justify the 300 bucks for a clutch.
I do plan on using the stock flywheel which I'm sure I will hear about.
My questions how much clutch is too much?
What are the effects of too much clutch?
Will I have to work the clutch when I'm driving on the street?
What are the disadvantages/advantages of going with a clutch that is rated 150-200 more Torque/HP than I'm running.
If you have any experience with any of these kits let me know. Just so you know the Corba guys really like te RAM Powergrip kit.
Thanks for your feedback.
Loots
I do plan on using the stock flywheel which I'm sure I will hear about.
My questions how much clutch is too much?
What are the effects of too much clutch?
Will I have to work the clutch when I'm driving on the street?
What are the disadvantages/advantages of going with a clutch that is rated 150-200 more Torque/HP than I'm running.
If you have any experience with any of these kits let me know. Just so you know the Corba guys really like te RAM Powergrip kit.
Thanks for your feedback.
Loots
The RST is DESIGNED to be used with the stock TOB and flywheel. Mcleod makes another flywheel that is slightly better than the stocker but the OEM flywheel is fine.
Do not take any input from the "Cobra Guys". Our transmission, motor, chassis, TOB and suspension are completely different. Talk to other S197 owners.
Search the board here find the horror stories of pulling trannies 6-7 times, adding parts upon parts, getting stuffed re-shimmed and machined, only to have the car drive like crap.
Try justifying spending another $300 on labor, or $3000 for some, when the clutch doesn't work right and no one will help you out.
If you must go cheap, I have an RPS single disc, street/strip clutch with an aluminum flywheel. It's a $1000 clutch. I took the clutch disc and threw it out because I cooked it. It rates at 600 lbs of torque. It was a good clutch but I wanted a clutch that felt like a Honda Accord and since I changed to an 8 bolt crank I had to get another flywheel anyways. So I bought an RST. The RPS was/is a good clutch, but my RST is much better.
I would suggest the RST. I would avoid the Ram, Spec and Centerforce DFX.
If you want to go cheap (not because the clutch is cheap but because it's just sitting on the shelf in my garage) PM me and we'll talk.
Cheap things cost too much.
#7
I would have to agree.
He's thinking about the RPS clutch I have. It's really good clutch. The only difference I recall between the Mcleod twin and RPS was pedal pressure. The RPS had a firm pedal, about 1.5 times stock. Mcleod is less than stock.
He's thinking about the RPS clutch I have. It's really good clutch. The only difference I recall between the Mcleod twin and RPS was pedal pressure. The RPS had a firm pedal, about 1.5 times stock. Mcleod is less than stock.
#8
HI Guys, I actually have the Centerforce DF, and have found it adequate. No chatter and quick grip. Any reason I should be aware of as to why you think it is a bad choice? Thanks in advance for any insight.
#9
Been a few that have had the actual disc come apart. You should be okay, but you never know.
#10
Glad it's working for you. Mine blew the slave 1600 miles after install due to increased pressure plate force. It's happened to others on another forum too. The latest happenings are clutch material coming off the disk leaving only the metal disk. I've seen two recently. Both have been the result of dragstrip abuse.