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Driveshaft or Rear end?

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Old 05-19-2010, 12:18 AM
  #11  
baddog671
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I love my 3.5" Shaftmaster's DS which is a TRUE 1-piece, unlike other companies
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:44 AM
  #12  
doctorstrobe
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You might want to consider waiting to do both the driveshaft and the rear end at the same time. That way if you go with a driveshaft that requires a new pinion flange you can have that change done properly.
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:37 AM
  #13  
forensicsteve
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Im seeking 850rwhp when I'm done

Except for possibly the MMR short block, you are way underbuilt for your 850 rwhp. You will need a larger single turbo, way more fuel, and a 4r or similar transmission. If you just plan on having a pretty dyno sheet that reads 850, you can away with a lot less modding. If you plan on dragracing with that much power, it's going to be much more expensive and challenging. That's the difference between someone having hp goals compared to someone with ET goals. Lot depends also on how many times you want to change things out.

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Old 05-19-2010, 12:00 PM
  #14  
BlackS281
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Originally Posted by forensicsteve
Im seeking 850rwhp when I'm done

Except for possibly the MMR short block, you are way underbuilt for your 850 rwhp. You will need a larger single turbo, way more fuel, and a 4r or similar transmission. If you just plan on having a pretty dyno sheet that reads 850, you can away with a lot less modding. If you plan on dragracing with that much power, it's going to be much more expensive and challenging. That's the difference between someone having hp goals compared to someone with ET goals. Lot depends also on how many times you want to change things out.
I know. I'm only going to be at 500rwhp with my current setup. I have plans to get a larger turbo and more fuel. The transmission that I have will hold that power.
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Old 05-19-2010, 12:03 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by baddog671
I love my 3.5" Shaftmaster's DS which is a TRUE 1-piece, unlike other companies
I plan on going with a 4" powerhouse. It's one of the strongest I can get made of alluminum.
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Old 05-19-2010, 12:08 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by doctorstrobe
You might want to consider waiting to do both the driveshaft and the rear end at the same time. That way if you go with a driveshaft that requires a new pinion flange you can have that change done properly.
That is a good thought, but powerhouse says their driveshaft will bolt in to the pinion yoke on the stock 8.8 that I'm going to build. I'll let you know if I run into a problem.
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Old 05-19-2010, 12:36 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by BlackS281
I plan on going with a 4" powerhouse. It's one of the strongest I can get made of alluminum.
I'm curious how much it weighs becuase their website says "nearly 30lbs. lighter than stock". The stock driveshaft is 38.8lbs..
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Old 05-19-2010, 03:25 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by baddog671
I'm curious how much it weighs becuase their website says "nearly 30lbs. lighter than stock". The stock driveshaft is 38.8lbs..
If that's true then I have no idea where they're getting those numbers. It says that the shipping weight is 19 pounds so that's what I would go by.
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Old 05-19-2010, 03:51 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BlackS281
If that's true then I have no idea where they're getting those numbers. It says that the shipping weight is 19 pounds so that's what I would go by.
Yes, mine was 18.5lbs., so with the box and everything, 19lbs. shipped must put it at about the same. "nearly 30lbs. lighter" must be heavily exaggerated...

Breenspeed sells an aluminum DS that is rated to 900lbs. I believe. Check it out
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:14 PM
  #20  
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Assuming that you have deep enough pockets and the will to spend and spend and spend, to get to 1000 hp....what are you going to do with all those horses? You have hp goals...what for? Have you any idea what it takes to get that power to the ground, even on a prepped surface? And then when you have resolved the traction issues....that is when the stuff starts to break. Wondering where you got that 850 number from?
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