808muscle

I finally got to run with my newly purchased mt et streets mounted on some sn95 bullitt rims. Tires barley stuck out, actually they looks awesome but I did get rubber all over the sides, rear window!! LOL

DA 1712
temp low 80's
humidity low 60's

I got four runs during test n tune when it was HOT, car was also hot after the hour drive to the track. Did a nice smokey burnout for 5 to 10 seconds before every run.

Tire pressure 18psi, took two runs, best was 2.18 sixty foot, 13.48@103.95. Car bogged at line. The first run I did not load the trans, sixty foot was worse 2.23. So loading the trans netted .05 better sixty foot.

Raised tire pressure to 20 psi. Car is still hot, air temps still hot. Same results.

With test n tune over qualifying rounds started, after about an hour break and the temps now in the high 70's, sun going down. Next run, tires at 20 psi. Loaded trans 1500 or so.
sixty ft 2.19
13.39 @105.4

Car cooled again, 20 psi, loaded trans again.
2.18
13.23 @ 106.14

Next was elimination rounds so I focused on winning instead of ET and won my first race and lost the second. Both runs were very similar, no load on trans, 2.22 sixty foots and 13.45 at 104 mph. When my car is hot, it runs 2 to 3 tenths slower but almost the same ET each time. Good for bracket racing which is all we have here.

Tires worked great for traction. I never lost traction at any launch or into second or third gear as I always did with my street tires. No wheel hop either.

I know a nice 3000 stall would be a big improvement but what should my sixty foot be with my setup? 4.10 gears, cai/tune, longtubes, and cams. The DA cost me two tenths or so but I am really dissapointed with the sixty foot times. How can I get a better sixty with my mods. The trans will only load up so much before it gives. How are you guys with auto trans and stock stall getting good sixty foots?

stealth_GT

My 60 fts. hover around 2.0/2.1 with street tires, full burn out in the water box and a small launch. You should be seeing some 1.8s with those tires imo, especially with 4.10s and the torque from the long tubes.

Hold the breaks HARD at the light and rev the hell out of it up til it almost breaks the tires loose, but not breaking them free. On the 2nd light, right as it's about to trip the 3rd light, let it roll out (spin the wheels a little) and then floor it.

The exhaust cut outs helped me rev the motor when power breaking to 2500 rpm, better then the 2000 rpm its used to with the cut outs closed. It really helps out with my launch as well as allowing better response overall.

808muscle

I dont remember what my tach was reading to know where my rpms were. I guess I will have to focus on that next month. What about tire pressure. Should I continue to add air since I am getting no wheel spin?

Simon1

18-20 is fine for your pressure. I would probably be more agressive off of the line. I would experiement a little bit before I went to the track with the launch technique.

stealth_GT

Ditto on being more aggressive, but don't snap the axles

808muscle

Snapping axles would be bad! Lol. The tech during inspection suggested a driveshaft loop for safety. Is there a better "one" out there or anyone will do?

I picked up a cordless impact wrench Sunday.....that's gonna make those tire changes way easier and quicker.

Simon1

You don't need a loop.

You aren't going to snap out axles. They are 31 spline which is pretty damn strong.

Are you custom tuned? It can make a big difference. Not sure if you have access to a dyno overthere on the island.

Menace

Was under the impression we had 28 spline axles... No?

Diabolical!

The BMR driveshaft loop is easy to install and serves its purpose as well as any other loop. The track I go to won't let you run without one if you're running bias ply tires or less than 11.50.

808muscle

Yes have a brenspeed tune. No dyno available.

Whether its needed or not I like the idea of the driveshaft loop. My friend lost his once and totalled his vehicle.