Help me spend my money
11-07-2010, 10:38 AM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,846
If the 2010s are anything like the 05-09s then do yourself a favor and don't skimp out on the CAI. Get a C&L or something equivalent with a custom tune. You will not be disappointed. Save your money on exhaust and just swap out the mufflers. You're probably going to want to do the gears before or at least at the same time as the cams (if you do them); you're going to lose some low end torque and the gears will help you out there. I can't comment on the gears or suspension.
11-07-2010, 10:51 AM
#12
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: illinois
Posts: 2
I have a 03 svt cobra eaton supercharger w\40k on it.. Ill take 450 plus shipping obo
gtpturbo14@yahoo.com for pics
gtpturbo14@yahoo.com for pics
11-07-2010, 11:09 AM
#13
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 825
Since I just edited my reply ( too vague), , and wrote a small book afterwards, then couldn't save it, I'll just post twice: Let me say this all my opinion, from experience, and what I've seen/heard on what to do with these cars from others:
Mods in order of importance:
1 CAI/Tune: I would get a tuner such as an SCT or Diablo tuner with a custom tune on it. Preferably a dyno tune if you live near a reputable shop, otherwise I'd go with a "mail order" tune such as one from Brenspeed, Bama, or JDM, to name a few. I would also get a good CAI such as a C&L, JLT, Steeda, etc. Also, to answer one of your questions, To me, a drop in filter like K&N, or a CAI that doesn't require a tune, to me is not making enough of an impact performance wise, to not have the engine's tuning paramters updated to compensate for the increased air flow. Although, if I remember right, the FRPP package just has a K&N style filter element to drop in, because technically the stock air box is a "cold air intake" style box...but the aftermarket CAI would be superior anyway, (larger diameter airtube, etc) Also on that note, personally, I would stay away from the FRPP tune packages, I know from experience they are very conservative, especially if you're automatic, you barely notice a difference, so save money and go with one of the above mentioned.
2 Gears: Automatic or not, if you're going to do gears, go 4.10's or don't bother. (IMHO, of course) 3.31 to 3.73 is barely noticeable, and just going to 4.10's will really make things fun! If you're worried about mpg's, for instance, I get 21-22 mpg on an avg. of 65-70 mph on the highway, I tach somewhere about 2,500 (3,000 if going 80 mph)...Note: if you get gears after the tune, you will need the tune to be updated to the new gear change which will require the tuner to change it if his tune is locked.) Your speedometer will be out of adjustment otherwise. Also, please have a reputable shop install gears, you want this done once! ( Not three times like me!) Trust me on this one!
3 Under drive pulleys (UDP's): Steeda is a popular brand, seems to be the #1 pulley of choice around here, although others make them as well. Its debatable as to how much they help, but I personally notice a slight difference at wide open throttle, and at idle, it seems to be a tiny bit louder! ( Or maybe I'm just nuts) Anyway, you might want to get the axlebacks first instead of these first if sound is more important, and you want to stay within budget.
4 Axlebacks: (Probably at the end of your budget, if not slightly over) The sky's the limit here, any brand you like according to your sound preference, do research. To me, the sound in the car is just as important as the sound outside the car!
5 Lowering Springs
post budget) Depends how much you want to lower the car, usually 1" to 1.5". Eibach, FRPP, etc etc, I don't know much else about these, I have stock suspension.
Also, you mentioned cams. I would do the above things first. The sound is nice from cams, but I have heard enough problems with having them run right, personally, I leave well enough alone, and run stock cams. Also, to me , the gains in HP and TQ as compared to what you spend on them is not enough. ( Thats just from my perspective) I you were supercharged, I'd think different. I also feel this way about headers, even long tube ones. To me the cost doesn't equal the gains unless you're supercharged, although they can't hurt. ( I know you mentioned the BBK's for $150, so go for it. Keep in mind your tune will have to be adjusted accordingly to acommodate the LT headers.) Hope this helps, good luck!
Mods in order of importance:
1 CAI/Tune: I would get a tuner such as an SCT or Diablo tuner with a custom tune on it. Preferably a dyno tune if you live near a reputable shop, otherwise I'd go with a "mail order" tune such as one from Brenspeed, Bama, or JDM, to name a few. I would also get a good CAI such as a C&L, JLT, Steeda, etc. Also, to answer one of your questions, To me, a drop in filter like K&N, or a CAI that doesn't require a tune, to me is not making enough of an impact performance wise, to not have the engine's tuning paramters updated to compensate for the increased air flow. Although, if I remember right, the FRPP package just has a K&N style filter element to drop in, because technically the stock air box is a "cold air intake" style box...but the aftermarket CAI would be superior anyway, (larger diameter airtube, etc) Also on that note, personally, I would stay away from the FRPP tune packages, I know from experience they are very conservative, especially if you're automatic, you barely notice a difference, so save money and go with one of the above mentioned.
2 Gears: Automatic or not, if you're going to do gears, go 4.10's or don't bother. (IMHO, of course) 3.31 to 3.73 is barely noticeable, and just going to 4.10's will really make things fun! If you're worried about mpg's, for instance, I get 21-22 mpg on an avg. of 65-70 mph on the highway, I tach somewhere about 2,500 (3,000 if going 80 mph)...Note: if you get gears after the tune, you will need the tune to be updated to the new gear change which will require the tuner to change it if his tune is locked.) Your speedometer will be out of adjustment otherwise. Also, please have a reputable shop install gears, you want this done once! ( Not three times like me!) Trust me on this one!
3 Under drive pulleys (UDP's): Steeda is a popular brand, seems to be the #1 pulley of choice around here, although others make them as well. Its debatable as to how much they help, but I personally notice a slight difference at wide open throttle, and at idle, it seems to be a tiny bit louder! ( Or maybe I'm just nuts) Anyway, you might want to get the axlebacks first instead of these first if sound is more important, and you want to stay within budget.
4 Axlebacks: (Probably at the end of your budget, if not slightly over) The sky's the limit here, any brand you like according to your sound preference, do research. To me, the sound in the car is just as important as the sound outside the car!
5 Lowering Springs
post budget) Depends how much you want to lower the car, usually 1" to 1.5". Eibach, FRPP, etc etc, I don't know much else about these, I have stock suspension. Also, you mentioned cams. I would do the above things first. The sound is nice from cams, but I have heard enough problems with having them run right, personally, I leave well enough alone, and run stock cams. Also, to me , the gains in HP and TQ as compared to what you spend on them is not enough. ( Thats just from my perspective) I you were supercharged, I'd think different. I also feel this way about headers, even long tube ones. To me the cost doesn't equal the gains unless you're supercharged, although they can't hurt. ( I know you mentioned the BBK's for $150, so go for it. Keep in mind your tune will have to be adjusted accordingly to acommodate the LT headers.) Hope this helps, good luck!
11-07-2010, 01:16 PM
#14
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: N.C
Posts: 62
wow. Thanks for the responses. Most of what I have heard here supports what I already thoguht. The problem I have been runninng into is that most of the performance related parts and forums run from 2005-2009 models. The 2010's, being the newest and slightly changed, remain an bit of a mystery apparently. I feel pretty confident about what I have in mind.
As far as the outside of my car, the first thing that is going to go away are those really ugly rims of mine. I cant stand the look of them. I would like i more aggressive stance with some better looking rims down the road. Next may be some Quarter Window and Side Scoops along with a different Spoiler.
Most of the people on this site are the same way. I think we all think allike in that our cars are never "complete" without that next mod. Its always a work in progress.
My first goal is to build enough horse power to beat that damn BMW M3 that has smoked me on the way to work not once but twice.
As far as the outside of my car, the first thing that is going to go away are those really ugly rims of mine. I cant stand the look of them. I would like i more aggressive stance with some better looking rims down the road. Next may be some Quarter Window and Side Scoops along with a different Spoiler.
Most of the people on this site are the same way. I think we all think allike in that our cars are never "complete" without that next mod. Its always a work in progress.
My first goal is to build enough horse power to beat that damn BMW M3 that has smoked me on the way to work not once but twice.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
folivier
Tennessee Regional Chapter
4
10-02-2015 05:32 AM
