My car is messed up!!
#1
My car is messed up!!
I went to start it this morning and it wouldn't crank, just made some strange noise with the dash lights flickering. Took the train to work and looked at it when I got home. I noticed that the remotes not longer locked/unlocked the doors and attempting to start the car did nothing now. I disconnected the bat for a few minutes thinking maybe an ecu reset would help. When I connect the bat now the alarm goes off constantly and the remotes no longer turn it off or open the door locks/trunk.
I'm thinking maybe the alarm module itself has possibly gone out? This is an alarm system that the ford dealer installed right before I took delivery of the car and it was pretty much the cheapest one they offered. Anyone have any similar experiences or any idea how to uninstall an alarm system? I really hate this alarm system anyways and would be glad to get rid of it.
I'm thinking maybe the alarm module itself has possibly gone out? This is an alarm system that the ford dealer installed right before I took delivery of the car and it was pretty much the cheapest one they offered. Anyone have any similar experiences or any idea how to uninstall an alarm system? I really hate this alarm system anyways and would be glad to get rid of it.
#3
6th Gear Member
Usually, when the framitz bearings begin to fester, they cause the clausen tube to restrict resulting in a loss of freebit flow to the fresnel intake rail. Throttle puddling then results in submiffed speed declination. A complete injection system flux and rescan using a Diddle Box (available at most auto parts stores) tuned for the 4th subloidian harmonic should resolve your problem.
Either that or you need to have your alternator and battery load tested. If you search the forum regarding electrical problems you'll find that the OE MotorCrap battery is junk and the alternator is a chronic problem. From your description, it sounds like the battery. With luck it's JUST the battery but on occasion the battery goes down the tubes quicker due to a faulty alternator.
#4
Lets see, whats common to all your problems.
THE BATTERY!!
GET NEW BATTERY!!
Show us pics of this 'dealer installed alarm'.
Thats the only way I can tell you how to
remove it is if I can see it.
Ever played "Operation" when you were a kid?
The OEM alarm resides in the SJB programming.
05s were the first model year and are plagued
with problems. Moldy pass side carpet from the
water leak?
THE BATTERY!!
GET NEW BATTERY!!
Show us pics of this 'dealer installed alarm'.
Thats the only way I can tell you how to
remove it is if I can see it.
Ever played "Operation" when you were a kid?
The OEM alarm resides in the SJB programming.
05s were the first model year and are plagued
with problems. Moldy pass side carpet from the
water leak?
#5
I just got a new die hard battery this past summer so I doubt that's the problem. I guess it could be the alternator. I did hook up a battery charger/quick starter and it didn't seem to help at all.
157dB, I did have some leakage in the passenger side foot area but that was like 8 months ago, I got it fixed and haven't had a problem since.
I think I will leave the bat charger on it all night and see what happens tomorrow. Thanks for suggestions!
157dB, I did have some leakage in the passenger side foot area but that was like 8 months ago, I got it fixed and haven't had a problem since.
I think I will leave the bat charger on it all night and see what happens tomorrow. Thanks for suggestions!
#6
Uhhh, leakage is not good.
The other item common to your
problems is the smart junction box
located in the leak area kick panel.
Also Sears has been known to sell OLD
stale sitting on the shelves since 2000
batteries. Check the date code on that
Dies-Easy.
Voltmeter would commit/rule out the
alternator.
The other item common to your
problems is the smart junction box
located in the leak area kick panel.
Also Sears has been known to sell OLD
stale sitting on the shelves since 2000
batteries. Check the date code on that
Dies-Easy.
Voltmeter would commit/rule out the
alternator.
#7
Usually, when the framitz bearings begin to fester, they cause the clausen tube to restrict resulting in a loss of freebit flow to the fresnel intake rail. Throttle puddling then results in submiffed speed declination. A complete injection system flux and rescan using a Diddle Box (available at most auto parts stores) tuned for the 4th subloidian harmonic should resolve your problem.
The Fourier analysis of the 3rd harmonic of the 3rd order non-linear partial function...
#8
Well that was it!! Left the charger on it all night and fired right up today.
I've had a few problem with the car in the past few months and they've all been very easy fixes that cost me nothing really. First a couple months ago sitting in rush hour traffic in downtown chicago the car just dies and I couldnt get it started it would just crank. Had it towed off the road so i could check it out. I figured probably something with the fuel system. Checked the fuse for the fuel pump and it was ok. Then called a friend who is familiar with my setup and he suggested checking the fuse for the boost a pump in the trunk. Turns out it was blown so i put the fuse from the radio in there and fired right up. I didnt even know there was a fuse back there for that.
Then about a month ago while driving I lose power steering and then engine temp starts to go into the red. I pull over and look under the hood to see the engine belt is off. Put it back on and all good. I was driving a little spirited before this happened but it never happened in the past. Hopefully it doesn't become a reoccurring issue.
Then this with the battery draining is another easy/cost free fix. Hopefully my luck isn't all used up! Thanks again for the advice
I've had a few problem with the car in the past few months and they've all been very easy fixes that cost me nothing really. First a couple months ago sitting in rush hour traffic in downtown chicago the car just dies and I couldnt get it started it would just crank. Had it towed off the road so i could check it out. I figured probably something with the fuel system. Checked the fuse for the fuel pump and it was ok. Then called a friend who is familiar with my setup and he suggested checking the fuse for the boost a pump in the trunk. Turns out it was blown so i put the fuse from the radio in there and fired right up. I didnt even know there was a fuse back there for that.
Then about a month ago while driving I lose power steering and then engine temp starts to go into the red. I pull over and look under the hood to see the engine belt is off. Put it back on and all good. I was driving a little spirited before this happened but it never happened in the past. Hopefully it doesn't become a reoccurring issue.
Then this with the battery draining is another easy/cost free fix. Hopefully my luck isn't all used up! Thanks again for the advice
#9
6th Gear Member
So you think the car cranking over after charging your battery means the problem is solved? Hmmmmm... I hope you're lucky and right. Keep us posted since all I think you did was relieve a symptom instead of finding the problem.