New Tune with Whipple
12-08-2010, 12:32 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 13
New Tune with Whipple
Ok, this summer the car was upgraded with the Big Boost Kit from the non-intercooled version. The kit used a 3.250'' pulley and Pro-cal tune. If had issue left and right, such as........
-Mis-wired GT500 fuel pumps caused max gauge reading of 3/4ths of a tank. Threw a code rarely for it. (corrected)
-After that correction, the car would read a full tank, but run out of fuel with 1/8th of a tank left, then later 1/4th. To fill it up from 1/4 of a tank, it took 10.5. so the gauge seems to be reading right. (still uncorrected)
-Car threw codes for TB actuator and signal, goes into limp mode. Wiring redone and TPS replaced. Problem got worse by stuck postion code and lost throttle control. (corrected by replacing with FRPP CJ 62mm throttle body)
-When cold weather hit, the car ran extremely rough at 3800 rpm and bogged too. Shot some smoke. Ran fine under normal driving conditions. (uncorrected)
-Speedometer started working when it wanted too. Now its stopped completely and throwing a code for the OSS sensor on the tail shaft the transmission and wants to lower below 1k rpms under cruise conditions, so manual throttle needs to be maintained (uncorrected, replacing OSS tomorrow with luck)
So here I am again. Frustrated and tired of troubleshooting problems that I never heard of. Now, the Stingers and 62mm TB may may something to with the rough running and bogging and smoke.......etc. So it maybe the tune or fouled plugs because it seemed to fit the description of spark knock. I bought some new HT0s and gapping at .032. Also taking it down to Pro-Dyno in SC to re-tune the car and get rid of the Whipple supplied tune.
Im upgrading the mid-pipe to a catted x-pipe at the same time. I figured this would make the engine more efficient and eliminate a clogged cat for now.
Got two new gates belts and a Roush tensioner to prevent belt slip (still using old belt when non-ICed and stock tensioner) or stop it if it is part of the problem.
I figured I have my bases covered. My questions are......
1) Is this good enough?
2) Do I need to go up a pulley size for less boost?
-Mis-wired GT500 fuel pumps caused max gauge reading of 3/4ths of a tank. Threw a code rarely for it. (corrected)
-After that correction, the car would read a full tank, but run out of fuel with 1/8th of a tank left, then later 1/4th. To fill it up from 1/4 of a tank, it took 10.5. so the gauge seems to be reading right. (still uncorrected)
-Car threw codes for TB actuator and signal, goes into limp mode. Wiring redone and TPS replaced. Problem got worse by stuck postion code and lost throttle control. (corrected by replacing with FRPP CJ 62mm throttle body)
-When cold weather hit, the car ran extremely rough at 3800 rpm and bogged too. Shot some smoke. Ran fine under normal driving conditions. (uncorrected)
-Speedometer started working when it wanted too. Now its stopped completely and throwing a code for the OSS sensor on the tail shaft the transmission and wants to lower below 1k rpms under cruise conditions, so manual throttle needs to be maintained (uncorrected, replacing OSS tomorrow with luck)
So here I am again. Frustrated and tired of troubleshooting problems that I never heard of. Now, the Stingers and 62mm TB may may something to with the rough running and bogging and smoke.......etc. So it maybe the tune or fouled plugs because it seemed to fit the description of spark knock. I bought some new HT0s and gapping at .032. Also taking it down to Pro-Dyno in SC to re-tune the car and get rid of the Whipple supplied tune.
Im upgrading the mid-pipe to a catted x-pipe at the same time. I figured this would make the engine more efficient and eliminate a clogged cat for now.
Got two new gates belts and a Roush tensioner to prevent belt slip (still using old belt when non-ICed and stock tensioner) or stop it if it is part of the problem.
I figured I have my bases covered. My questions are......
1) Is this good enough?
2) Do I need to go up a pulley size for less boost?
12-08-2010, 04:24 AM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 743
Hey there Jinx, in my opinion a custom dyno tune is really going to help you out here.
The 3.25" pulley is doing just fine on mine, and while a little expensive, I would recommend the Whipple-Steeda 10 rib Belt Drive System with your Whipple . I've had no problems with belts, etc. at all since installing it about a year ago. Have fun !!
The 3.25" pulley is doing just fine on mine, and while a little expensive, I would recommend the Whipple-Steeda 10 rib Belt Drive System with your Whipple . I've had no problems with belts, etc. at all since installing it about a year ago. Have fun !!
12-08-2010, 08:20 AM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: HELL
Posts: 232
Hey there Jinx, in my opinion a custom dyno tune is really going to help you out here.
The 3.25" pulley is doing just fine on mine, and while a little expensive, I would recommend the Whipple-Steeda 10 rib Belt Drive System with your Whipple . I've had no problems with belts, etc. at all since installing it about a year ago. Have fun !!
The 3.25" pulley is doing just fine on mine, and while a little expensive, I would recommend the Whipple-Steeda 10 rib Belt Drive System with your Whipple . I've had no problems with belts, etc. at all since installing it about a year ago. Have fun !!
12-08-2010, 08:07 PM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
I wish my car would throw some kind of code! Mine is running rough under part throttle and the short term fuel trims jump from 4 to 15 all of the sudden, even at steady throttle. Not sure if the throttle body is crapping out, my o2 are dieing, maybe the Maf sensor. Could even be my cops dieing( my aftermarket ones died and gave similar symptoms)
12-09-2010, 03:29 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 13
While its unfortunate to here other people having problems like you moose, but it at least nice to know I'm not the one.
I've heard good things from Pro-Dyno and talking with Dan there is great and reassuring. He said he could fix the fuel issue, install new tensioner and x-pipe, and tune for good numbers and that I wont have any complaints on drivability.
My car running out of gas at 1/4 or a little more is annoying, especially when I know they is still a 1/4 left and out of reach.
I would love to have this car reliable enough to drive a long distance. Right now it scary to leave town. This is my only car too.
I've heard good things from Pro-Dyno and talking with Dan there is great and reassuring. He said he could fix the fuel issue, install new tensioner and x-pipe, and tune for good numbers and that I wont have any complaints on drivability.
My car running out of gas at 1/4 or a little more is annoying, especially when I know they is still a 1/4 left and out of reach.
I would love to have this car reliable enough to drive a long distance. Right now it scary to leave town. This is my only car too.
12-09-2010, 03:30 PM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ......
Posts: 2,057
Ok, this summer the car was upgraded with the Big Boost Kit from the non-intercooled version. The kit used a 3.250'' pulley and Pro-cal tune. If had issue left and right, such as........
-Mis-wired GT500 fuel pumps caused max gauge reading of 3/4ths of a tank. Threw a code rarely for it. (corrected)
-After that correction, the car would read a full tank, but run out of fuel with 1/8th of a tank left, then later 1/4th. To fill it up from 1/4 of a tank, it took 10.5. so the gauge seems to be reading right. (still uncorrected)
-Car threw codes for TB actuator and signal, goes into limp mode. Wiring redone and TPS replaced. Problem got worse by stuck postion code and lost throttle control. (corrected by replacing with FRPP CJ 62mm throttle body)
-When cold weather hit, the car ran extremely rough at 3800 rpm and bogged too. Shot some smoke. Ran fine under normal driving conditions. (uncorrected)
-Speedometer started working when it wanted too. Now its stopped completely and throwing a code for the OSS sensor on the tail shaft the transmission and wants to lower below 1k rpms under cruise conditions, so manual throttle needs to be maintained (uncorrected, replacing OSS tomorrow with luck)
So here I am again. Frustrated and tired of troubleshooting problems that I never heard of. Now, the Stingers and 62mm TB may may something to with the rough running and bogging and smoke.......etc. So it maybe the tune or fouled plugs because it seemed to fit the description of spark knock. I bought some new HT0s and gapping at .032. Also taking it down to Pro-Dyno in SC to re-tune the car and get rid of the Whipple supplied tune.
Im upgrading the mid-pipe to a catted x-pipe at the same time. I figured this would make the engine more efficient and eliminate a clogged cat for now.
Got two new gates belts and a Roush tensioner to prevent belt slip (still using old belt when non-ICed and stock tensioner) or stop it if it is part of the problem.
I figured I have my bases covered. My questions are......
1) Is this good enough?
2) Do I need to go up a pulley size for less boost?
-Mis-wired GT500 fuel pumps caused max gauge reading of 3/4ths of a tank. Threw a code rarely for it. (corrected)
-After that correction, the car would read a full tank, but run out of fuel with 1/8th of a tank left, then later 1/4th. To fill it up from 1/4 of a tank, it took 10.5. so the gauge seems to be reading right. (still uncorrected)
-Car threw codes for TB actuator and signal, goes into limp mode. Wiring redone and TPS replaced. Problem got worse by stuck postion code and lost throttle control. (corrected by replacing with FRPP CJ 62mm throttle body)
-When cold weather hit, the car ran extremely rough at 3800 rpm and bogged too. Shot some smoke. Ran fine under normal driving conditions. (uncorrected)
-Speedometer started working when it wanted too. Now its stopped completely and throwing a code for the OSS sensor on the tail shaft the transmission and wants to lower below 1k rpms under cruise conditions, so manual throttle needs to be maintained (uncorrected, replacing OSS tomorrow with luck)
So here I am again. Frustrated and tired of troubleshooting problems that I never heard of. Now, the Stingers and 62mm TB may may something to with the rough running and bogging and smoke.......etc. So it maybe the tune or fouled plugs because it seemed to fit the description of spark knock. I bought some new HT0s and gapping at .032. Also taking it down to Pro-Dyno in SC to re-tune the car and get rid of the Whipple supplied tune.
Im upgrading the mid-pipe to a catted x-pipe at the same time. I figured this would make the engine more efficient and eliminate a clogged cat for now.
Got two new gates belts and a Roush tensioner to prevent belt slip (still using old belt when non-ICed and stock tensioner) or stop it if it is part of the problem.
I figured I have my bases covered. My questions are......
1) Is this good enough?
2) Do I need to go up a pulley size for less boost?
2. That's up to you. I ran a 3.625" on the stock block, it only made 436 hp but was fairly safe.
12-14-2010, 08:11 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 13
Ok. I finally got an answer to everything thanks to Pro-Dyno in Ft. Mill, SC. The stumbling issue was from the fact the HT0 plugs that the unknown original installer put in were never gapped. So I was unknowingly running around with plugs set at a stock .040''. So I'm not sure if should be pissed that the original installer had a 8 psi pulley on the non-ICed whipple with ungapped plug or should I be pissed that my installer never checked the gap or re-gapped the plugs when they put on the 3.25'' pulley with the Big Boost Kit from FRPP. Either way moral of the story check your gap. Pro-Dyno gapped the plugs at .032'' as they recommend for my pulley.
They also installed the Roush tensioner, changed the belt, and installed the new UPR catted X-pipe.
After a few pulls on the dyno Dan made 527 rwhp and 479 rwtq, but said a little bit before 6k rpms the car maxed out the 34lbs injectors. So 60lbs injectors are what he recommended and also a detune to be easier on the stock shortblock. This is the dyno chart for that run:
For the detune, the car maxes out the injectors after 6k rpms. Dan still recommends the 60lbs injectors to be safe, but should be fine if shifted at or before 6k rpms. Here is the chart:
They also installed the Roush tensioner, changed the belt, and installed the new UPR catted X-pipe.
After a few pulls on the dyno Dan made 527 rwhp and 479 rwtq, but said a little bit before 6k rpms the car maxed out the 34lbs injectors. So 60lbs injectors are what he recommended and also a detune to be easier on the stock shortblock. This is the dyno chart for that run:
For the detune, the car maxes out the injectors after 6k rpms. Dan still recommends the 60lbs injectors to be safe, but should be fine if shifted at or before 6k rpms. Here is the chart:
