Simon1

The only way I have seen things like this get cured is when the tuner can look at a data log from the vehicle while it is exibiting the problem. Some tuners intimately familar with certain combinations and vehicles, can do it by experience. Most can't.

I hope it is tune related, as I can think of something else you haven't checked.

AMChrisRose

This is not always the case. I'll gladly take our mail-order files for the S197's and put them up against most dyno tunes out there. We tune literally hundreds a week with nothing but awesome results. We get back 100's of dyno charts, from cams and lockouts and nitrous down to simple bolt on CAI's or even stock airbox. It's about experience with the application. I've schooled dyno tunes many a times.

Don't take that the wrong way. I whole-heartedly agree that dynos are very powerful tools for small attention-to-detail. There are just many cases where you're not going to make more power or do anything fantastic over a mail-order tune. If this were forced induction, I'd be right next to you yelling at mail-order calibrations! I remote tune forced induction stuff with intricate datalogging, step testing and WOT (with air/fuel ratio results) last. However, in this case a mail-order tune is going to be just as accurate as most dyno calibrations out there. This makes a lot more sense from where I'm standing behind the scenes, but I'll say it anyway: there's only about 10 people in the country I'd let tune my 05-11 Mustang, dyno or mail-order regardless. It's about experience more than hands-on.

AMChrisRose

All of the surging and idle issues were with the 2011's and they're fixed. We've NEVER had any surging epidemic or repeated issues with Bama tunes for the 2005-2010. There's hundreds or maybe even thousands of pages worth of great testimonials on these forums. The 2011's only had maybe 10 cases of it and we fixed it back in October/November?

With that being said, your case is DEFINITELY an isolated incident, and a byproduct of us doing 500-1000 different Mustangs a month. The more volume, you're going to run into the 1 or 2 that would have been an issue anyway.

It's more than likely just an issue with the tune file. Our tune submission form has a few questions that are a little confusing and bother the living crap out of me because they're always wrong.

Two ways to fix it... 1) Call Bama 888.226.9764 Monday-Friday 9AM-5:30PM EST and have them verify all of your modifications with us and check the tunes. or you can 2) PM me over your full first/last name and order number. Also make sure to include everything you have done to your vehicle including rear axle ratio, tire size, cai, exhaust, etc. etc. etc. Everything that would need to be included in the tune.

I'll look into it. Probably a tiny little mistake that we can fix within 5 minutes. Always call us first, it gets taken care of so much faster.

rangerheave

Chris--PM sent with the info requested.

For the record, I want to be perfectly clear. I have no ill-feelings or anger with American Muscle/Bama. In my opinion they are at the forefront of Customer Service, Product Selection and overall quality. They came recommended to me by nearly everyone I know who has bought aftermarket accessories for their Mustangs and I will not only continue to buy from them in the future but will recommend them to others as well.

Happy Holidays.

Simon1

I never mentioned a dyno. I was talking about a data log and how important it can be in getting a tune corrected. Especially with FI.

The reason you will put your mail order tunes against other dyno tunes is alot of the dyno tunes come from idiots who had enough money to purchase the software.

The following comment is not about you and not specifically about the OP. But I get frustrated with people here who post drivability type issues with their cars after recieving any tuning. 9 times out of 10 it is the tune. Something is wrong and it needs adjustment. They call the tuner and the tuner says "It's not the tune". Well it is almost all the time, so it's frustrating that someone wants help or advice then doesn't like the answer to the problem so they ignore it forever until the inevitable hits them in the face and then several of say "I told you so".

Anyways off/rant.

Seems like you can get stuff together and get the tune ironed out. I have been there done that with having a tune go crazy in an FI car. Stressfull can't describe it when my motor is on the line.

AMChrisRose

Hey, we're cool... no big deal. Your car is surging, I would be frustrated too! I looked through your tune files and I really didn't see anything wrong, however it's possible that it could have been loaded incorrectly on our end, etc. So I went ahead and wrote an 87 Street tune from scratch. With SCT's Device Update software, go to the "Load Custom Tune Files" area. Delete all of the current custom tunes off of the device. Load the new 87 Street Tune to slot 1 and then load it into the car. Make sure that you are going to Custom Tune and not Strategy Tune under the main menu (I know you're probably doing it right, but this is more for anyone who stumbles upon this and reads it with a similar issue). Let me know how this goes!

Good luck... we'll get you taken care of!

Blacksmoke

What are you thinking of that he hasn't checked?

Blacksmoke

Bump... Simon?

rangerheave

I thought that I should give a bit of an update.

I received a new tune from Bama which I installed without issue. The problem still persists with the surging of the tach. However, now it only seems to happen when I come off throttle as I coast to a stop light or take it out of gear. It does it two or three times and then seems to steady itself. The worst is when I was going about 45 mph and nearing a semi-sharp curve and it stalled on me. Had to quickly start it again as I dead steered around the corner.

Additionally, Im getting about 11-12 miles per gallon now. Clearly not what it should be. My frustration consumes me.

Ill call Bama on monday and see if we can get it sorted out. Sheesh.

Simon1

It should have read, "I can't think of anything . . . "

I had the same symptoms and an adjustment to the "dashpot" (I hope that's the correct term) was what was needed.

Car would idle great at a stop, shift nicely and drive good. When decelerating, it was alomost like the car was at part throttle. Rpms didn't surge, because it was in gear, but I could watch my AF vary up and down while decelerating instead of going completly lean into 17.9+. Usually the AF would read --- under decel in gear. I could also feel the car either accelerate or maintain it's speed. If I pulled it out of gear, the RPM's would hang at whatever I was at until I cam to a near stop.