Simon1

Since getting my motor built and keeping the boost around 15-16 psi, I am forced to changed the plugs more often than most others. Everytime I do change the plugs, I find one that is not looking so great.

So for those who have FI of any kind, I would check them everytime you change the oil. You don't have to pull every single plug, but atleast pull a few just to see.

My engine builder told to replace the plugs every 5,000, one time per year, or if I ever get detonation. I just changed my plugs today and the car does run better.

I keep an entire set of HTOs gapped, anti siezed and in the box in my go bag in the trunk. The bad thing about having the KB on there is the blower prevents you from changing the passenger side rear plug without pulling the blower off. Oh well. Cost of doing business.

So like checking the smoke detectors in your house, check your plugs!

Riptide

I've got the brisks and they had 2500 miles on them already when I put them in with the kit. The previous owner had no problems with them and they looked OK when they went back in my car. Previous owner never tracked his car but he did step on it frequently.

I don't mind checking the plugs except that it looks like the rear plug on the passenger side is going to be a big fat PITA to get out of there with the KB manifold on.

My attitude has been largely pragmatic about the whole thing. If I have a reason to suspect a problem I'll check them. Otherwise I don't wanna screw with it.

wayne613

For those of us that suck worse then Rosanne Barr at a Karaoke bar with doing the more involved mechanical aspects...Is there a walk through on our cars to do this, and what to look for?

I only have about 43k, no FI, but I get some monster hesitation normally. It's likely just because I've never had it tuned properly, and the CAI I have bites, but I drive it like I stole it, so I'm wondering if some of the problem might be from this.

Perhaps even plug/wire recommendations rather than going with the same as replacements when the time comes?

Thanks!

Simon1

I don't recall how long your blower has been on, but something to check would be the front plug on passenger side. Get the motor warmed and pull it to see. If you have gone nearly a year I am predictingsome build up.

I can see anyway to get the spark plugs out (passenger/rear) without pulling the blower. Don't mess with the intake, just take the blower unit off whole. I think it's a good thing to do because you recheck evrything and inspect for anything funky. Including checking the belt. Which I just put on and noticeda huge chunk out of it. There was also some belt dust built up under the snout of the blower. I took the time to polish the entire blower with some polish paste.

Get a chiltons manual for your car. It has step by step instrictions for everything. TO do spark plugs you will need the following:

7mm socket on driver
9/16 deep socket with some extensions
tourqe wrench (not a must but reccomended) cheap at harbor freight.
Anti sieze
Small 8" piece of 3/8" fuel line ( I use this to start the threads and unscrew the plugs)
Die-electric grease

Riptide

It's only been on for about 1000 miles. They looked okay when they went in with about 2500 pre-existing miles on them. As far as buildup goes do you mean carbon buildup?

So you are saying to leave the compressor attached to the manifold and pull it all off there at once? Have you done that before? I don't have my car accessible to check but can you get to all the manifold bolts with the compressor still on there?

wayne613

Probably need to order online, of course the local stores were out of stock of the one needed when I went in last time.

Nice, thanks. Have a harbor freight nearby too, figures as I was just in there last week.

S197steve

I've been meaning to check mine as I've noticed a little bit of low RPM hesitation on occasion. I had a very rich tune on the car for the first 7k-8k miles after I installed the blower and think that might have caused some fowling.

Simon1

So there are three main parts to the blower.

Blower unit - sits on top of manifold

Intake- attached to the blower and throttle body

Manifold-sits between the heads.

I only take the blower off which includes 8 bolts attaching the blower, remove the intake tube (not the intake attached to the blower), disconnecting the bypass and other vacumm lines, disconnect the sensors.

I put anti-sieze on all blower related bolts and put RTV down between the blower and the manifold. Just a little bit of RTV though as it makes a big mess if you put too much down. AFter you get the blower strpped down and ready, check a week later as the RTV can sometimes loosen the seal a little bit.

Simon1

Chiltons manual can be found at most auto parts store.

All the other parts can be found at HF.

wayne613

Yeah, snagged the Haynes for 05-07 (same thing for my 08, just haven´t printed a newer one with the updated years as I understand it).

Nobody (Autozone/Pep-boys)could even special order the Chiltons however for me, thought that was odd. These are different are they not? Have to check Amazon or the like later. But I think this will do me anyhow, fairly detailed for the things I wasn´t really clear on.