Underdrive pullies
#11
RE: Underdrive pullies
I got a set of underdrive pulleys with the kit I ordered from RPM...although now i'm thinkin about not even installin them because I have my sights set on an electric water pump...
#12
RE: Underdrive pullies
How well did the short headers and x=pipe worked for you.
ORIGINAL: SCstanger
I got a set of underdrive pulleys with the kit I ordered from RPM...although now i'm thinkin about not even installin them because I have my sights set on an electric water pump...
I got a set of underdrive pulleys with the kit I ordered from RPM...although now i'm thinkin about not even installin them because I have my sights set on an electric water pump...
#14
RE: Underdrive pullies
Geeesh, somebody has their panties in a bunch... How am I trying to 'play you for an idiot' when you pretty much agreed with everything I said? You could have said what I said in your first post, but I think you spent too much time looking up the term 'battery juice'.
I'm sorry you didn't post the details about having a capacitor. You just said that you hooked a 1200 Watt amp up without any problems.
Were someone else to read your post for info, they would think that hooking a 1200 watt amp to the battery (without a cap) and having UD pulleys would work just fine. It just isn't so.
Posting incomplete information is almost as bad as posting wrong information.
If you're running a full farad cap, then that's why you don't see the huge current drain going back and forth. The cap is absorbing that imbalance. Take the cap out of the system and see how well it does. I'd bet your lights would dim, your amp would flatten out, and eventually you'd ruin your entire system.
I'm sorry you didn't post the details about having a capacitor. You just said that you hooked a 1200 Watt amp up without any problems.
Were someone else to read your post for info, they would think that hooking a 1200 watt amp to the battery (without a cap) and having UD pulleys would work just fine. It just isn't so.
Posting incomplete information is almost as bad as posting wrong information.
If you're running a full farad cap, then that's why you don't see the huge current drain going back and forth. The cap is absorbing that imbalance. Take the cap out of the system and see how well it does. I'd bet your lights would dim, your amp would flatten out, and eventually you'd ruin your entire system.
ORIGINAL: mac10chap
alright StupidTodd,
not your fault and i dont think that you suck b/c you have a v6.
if you read my last post, you will know that i told that guy that i didnt know the answer to that question and that i only have that deal through my dad's buddy's service department.
i have a 1 farad rockford fosgate digital cap and have been installing stereo systems for about 8 years now so yes, i do know what the hell i am talking about...
what i meant was that my battery gauge isnt dropping considerably...sorry that you were looking too much into that one. i am sure that everybody else knew what i meant b/c only a dumbass would think that with pulleys and a 1200 watt system, the amp woudnt draw more power. i was simply stating that compared to my past experience with underdrives and systems in the same vehicle, the outcome wasnt as good. ie. dimming headlights, drained batteries, and alternators going out.
thank you for the suggestion but do me a favor and dont ever try to play me for an idiot again; now if i am taking your post too personally, then i appologize in advance...take it easy StupidTodd.
alright StupidTodd,
Sorry, I didn't know about the HP ratings for the GT, I have the V6 (blah blah, I suck, whatever) and the pulley specs are saying 12.3 HP for the V6, so I assumed you would get more from the GT, I just didn't know how much more. Evidently, you get less.
You think just because the dealer installed the part that it can't void your warranty? Aftermarket products, that cause problems with your engine are not covered under your warranty. Your local dealer might be cool, and will agree that they will cover it because they did the work, but that does not say that if you have to go to another dealer for whatever reason, that they will necessarily help you.
1200 Watt Alping Amp with underdrive pulleys? I HOPE you are running at least a full farad capacitor on that puppy, or you could have problems with your amp, speakers, and/or alternator...
What do you mean your voltage and 'battery juice' stayed exactly the same? Are you saying the amp draw never changed? If so, that means your amp isn't drawing power, and hence isn't working, which I doubt is the case.
However, if you have a fatty system, and a couple farad worth of capacitence, then I'll shut up, cuz you already know what I'm talking about. If not, I'd suggest at least a 1 farad cap to save yourself some headache down the road.
#15
RE: Underdrive pullies
An electric water pump replaces the belt driven pump. This in turn frees up HP that the water pump used to use.
It can also pump water at a more consistent rate, through all of the RPM ranges, instead of pumping max water at max rpm.
It can also pump water at a more consistent rate, through all of the RPM ranges, instead of pumping max water at max rpm.
ORIGINAL: TomsEleanor
sc, what would an elecrtic water pump do?
sc, what would an elecrtic water pump do?
#16
RE: Underdrive pullies
I just installed the electric water pump this weekend. It was a major pain in the butt to install and wire, but the car is running a little cooler, and I can definitely feel the increased hp around 4k rpms. You go from 80-100 much quicker, and IMO, much smoother. The car idles at around 750rpms vs. the 675 stock, but what does that matter?
As for the UD pullies, I decided against them for the following two reasons:
1) I live in San Diego, and was under the impression that they cut down the effectiveness of your AC (i.e., dampening by about 25%, I believe).
2) I would need to swap them out for the stock pullies when I get the Saleen s/c, which I don't want to do. I hate spending money on something and then have to 're-spend' it, so to speak.
I hope that this helps.
Greg
As for the UD pullies, I decided against them for the following two reasons:
1) I live in San Diego, and was under the impression that they cut down the effectiveness of your AC (i.e., dampening by about 25%, I believe).
2) I would need to swap them out for the stock pullies when I get the Saleen s/c, which I don't want to do. I hate spending money on something and then have to 're-spend' it, so to speak.
I hope that this helps.
Greg
#17
RE: Underdrive pullies
that is one heck of an idea greg, i should have figured that one out on my own. ill definetly consider that as i live in washington dc, and AC is a must have here in the summer. also, the car running cooler would be nice here, in our horrible traffic which i sit thru about an hour of a day. does your gt really idle at 675 stock? i have a 5 speed, and it seems like mine idles at about 750 or a little less.
#18
RE: Underdrive pullies
I haven't noticed any dampening of my AC, and I live in Louisiana, so you can bet that I have it on the entire time I'm in my car.
Also, the electric water pump is supposed to have a horrible life expectancy. I forget exactly what is it, but you're pretty much guaranteed to have to replace it at least once, whereas the stock will run until the end of time.
Also, the electric water pump is supposed to have a horrible life expectancy. I forget exactly what is it, but you're pretty much guaranteed to have to replace it at least once, whereas the stock will run until the end of time.
#19
RE: Underdrive pullies
The e-pump has a life expectancy of 3000+ hours, which is a ton. Consider 40mph*3000 hours, your e-pump should be good for 120,000 miles, assuming you average 40mph the whole time. Assume 25mph*3000hrs = 75,000miles. I'll take that. The older e-pumps had less time alotted for quality, but the new ones are better. As for the factory one, they last about the same these days.
As for the rpms, I was running under 750rpms for sure before the pump, and it is now running at 750rpms at idle. Once in drive, the idling rpms go up to almost 1k.
As for the rpms, I was running under 750rpms for sure before the pump, and it is now running at 750rpms at idle. Once in drive, the idling rpms go up to almost 1k.