10-23-2015, 03:17 PM
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Any tips on Ball Joint replacement?
05-09-2012, 01:43 PM
#11
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
OP, have you even tested the OEM ball joints for play before you just ordered the Ball Joints? just curiuos because if/when they fail you will be able to grab the tire and shake and see the Ball joint play. Entire hub will move on the A-arm, not just the tire which would indicate a wheel bearing.
05-09-2012, 01:47 PM
#12
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 571
+1 that's what I would've suggested if it were before the OP spent the cash on just the ball joints.
OP, have you even tested the OEM ball joints for play before you just ordered the Ball Joints? just curiuos because if/when they fail you will be able to grab the tire and shake and see the Ball joint play. Entire hub will move on the A-arm, not just the tire which would indicate a wheel bearing.
OP, have you even tested the OEM ball joints for play before you just ordered the Ball Joints? just curiuos because if/when they fail you will be able to grab the tire and shake and see the Ball joint play. Entire hub will move on the A-arm, not just the tire which would indicate a wheel bearing.
05-09-2012, 01:57 PM
#13
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Thomasville, NC Where we beat headers into submission!!
Posts: 7,233
I was standing there with the tech and we both wiggled the tire, it's not in-out movement (which I think would indicate wheel bearing). If I put my hands at 4 and 11 on the tire and push/pull I can feel and hear the movement. To me that's not tie-rod, that's ball joint.
The ball joints were the cheapest place to start. The dang wheel bearing/hub assemblies are $70 each for these cars. I got both ball joints for $60. I can feel the movement the most in the drivers side so I am going to start with that one.
I know that the shake could also be warped rotor(s) but it does not intensify when I apply the brakes.
The ball joints were the cheapest place to start. The dang wheel bearing/hub assemblies are $70 each for these cars. I got both ball joints for $60. I can feel the movement the most in the drivers side so I am going to start with that one.
I know that the shake could also be warped rotor(s) but it does not intensify when I apply the brakes.
05-09-2012, 02:00 PM
#14
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
Joint loosness isn't a good enough indicator. Your new ones will be just as loose in a few months.
The only real ways to check are with shaking the wheel as I mentioned or getting a pry bar/long screw driver in-between the control arm and the hub, right at the ball joint connection and giving that a good wiggle up/down. If you can see the ball joint has up/down play (from the stud pulling out of socket) then you know the ball joint has excess wear. Flexing is ok but more than 1/16th of an inch in play is not. You can Youtube "bad Ball Joint' videos and see for yourself.
The only real ways to check are with shaking the wheel as I mentioned or getting a pry bar/long screw driver in-between the control arm and the hub, right at the ball joint connection and giving that a good wiggle up/down. If you can see the ball joint has up/down play (from the stud pulling out of socket) then you know the ball joint has excess wear. Flexing is ok but more than 1/16th of an inch in play is not. You can Youtube "bad Ball Joint' videos and see for yourself.
05-09-2012, 02:24 PM
#16
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
I've got the same 'clunk' on mine and I have narrowed it down to the ball joints. I can see the movement with the methods above.
What's ironic is that now it's starting to warm up, the clunk is almost imperceivable as where before, during the winter, it was pretty dang annoying and very obvious.
I'll be getting the FRPP control arms though since I figure the OEM rubber is just as worn out as the ball/joint (and it will be easier). That and I've seen the work involved in replacing just the ball joints *bleh*.
What's ironic is that now it's starting to warm up, the clunk is almost imperceivable as where before, during the winter, it was pretty dang annoying and very obvious.
I'll be getting the FRPP control arms though since I figure the OEM rubber is just as worn out as the ball/joint (and it will be easier). That and I've seen the work involved in replacing just the ball joints *bleh*.
05-09-2012, 02:35 PM
#17
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Thomasville, NC Where we beat headers into submission!!
Posts: 7,233
I've got the same 'clunk' on mine and I have narrowed it down to the ball joints. I can see the movement with the methods above.
What's ironic is that now it's starting to warm up, the clunk is almost imperceivable as where before, during the winter, it was pretty dang annoying and very obvious.
I'll be getting the FRPP control arms though since I figure the OEM rubber is just as worn out as the ball/joint (and it will be easier). That and I've seen the work involved in replacing just the ball joints *bleh*.
What's ironic is that now it's starting to warm up, the clunk is almost imperceivable as where before, during the winter, it was pretty dang annoying and very obvious.
I'll be getting the FRPP control arms though since I figure the OEM rubber is just as worn out as the ball/joint (and it will be easier). That and I've seen the work involved in replacing just the ball joints *bleh*.
05-09-2012, 08:12 PM
#18
Joint loosness isn't a good enough indicator. Your new ones will be just as loose in a few months.
The only real ways to check are with shaking the wheel as I mentioned or getting a pry bar/long screw driver in-between the control arm and the hub, right at the ball joint connection and giving that a good wiggle up/down. If you can see the ball joint has up/down play (from the stud pulling out of socket) then you know the ball joint has excess wear. Flexing is ok but more than 1/16th of an inch in play is not. You can Youtube "bad Ball Joint' videos and see for yourself.
The only real ways to check are with shaking the wheel as I mentioned or getting a pry bar/long screw driver in-between the control arm and the hub, right at the ball joint connection and giving that a good wiggle up/down. If you can see the ball joint has up/down play (from the stud pulling out of socket) then you know the ball joint has excess wear. Flexing is ok but more than 1/16th of an inch in play is not. You can Youtube "bad Ball Joint' videos and see for yourself.
OP, just pull the control arm and then run to the local shop have them press in and out then.
05-09-2012, 09:42 PM
#19
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Thomasville, NC Where we beat headers into submission!!
Posts: 7,233
We don't need no stinkin shop!
They are done. It wasn't all that bad. Did them on the car. First one kicked our butts, second one was much easier. Took us about 4 hours.
Seems to have fixed the clunk. I will see what if any effect it had on the highway shake in the morning on my way to work.
They are done. It wasn't all that bad. Did them on the car. First one kicked our butts, second one was much easier. Took us about 4 hours.
Seems to have fixed the clunk. I will see what if any effect it had on the highway shake in the morning on my way to work.