what do you think, 2011 or 2013 replacement engine
#11
The extreme loads on the bearings from back to back runs could squeeze the oil out of the bearing, causing it to spin, especially 5w20. There are many possible causes of spun bearings. He could have over revved it, but I would not be drag racing using 5w20 anything. Oil film strength is a real thing and most 5w20's don't have the film strength of say a 5w30. I think redline 5w20 is one exception.
#12
If you really want to use 5w20 for drag racing, then this is what you want.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=13&pcid=1
I'm sure there are other manufacturers with similar claims. This is the key point in their specs.
Polyol ester base stocks provide more stability and film strength when exposed to excess fuel dilution
You are going to get more fuel in your oil when drag racing vs. cruising to and from work. Your 20wt could become a 10wt before you know it.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=13&pcid=1
I'm sure there are other manufacturers with similar claims. This is the key point in their specs.
Polyol ester base stocks provide more stability and film strength when exposed to excess fuel dilution
You are going to get more fuel in your oil when drag racing vs. cruising to and from work. Your 20wt could become a 10wt before you know it.
#14
I should have the car back today AND I was planning on going back to the track on Friday. I was about to research any break in period or if I'm ok to go right to the track....and is there a certain oil I should be using? I had no idea it could effect it. and of course I want to prevent anything in the future.
#15
They took out the oil squirters and modified the pistons. There is a different coating, some oil galleys and additional machining under the top ring. There's pictures on some forums around. The oil squirter delete is apparently where the 8HP comes from. I would expect other minor differences, but these are the biggies I am aware of.
#16
Sorry, yes...spun a bearing. And I don't think I used 5w20. My last oil change was synthetic and I THINK it was 10w30.
I should have the car back today AND I was planning on going back to the track on Friday. I was about to research any break in period or if I'm ok to go right to the track....and is there a certain oil I should be using? I had no idea it could effect it. and of course I want to prevent anything in the future.
I should have the car back today AND I was planning on going back to the track on Friday. I was about to research any break in period or if I'm ok to go right to the track....and is there a certain oil I should be using? I had no idea it could effect it. and of course I want to prevent anything in the future.
I run pennzoil platinum 5w30 in my car. I'm not sure if you really need to break in these motors or any new motor nowadays, but it wouldn't hurt to run the motorcraft semi-synthetic for the first 1,000 miles. I think redline says to only use their oil after 3,000 mile break in.
I'm not going to tell you what oil you should use. Use whatever you are comfortable with. I'm not comfortable using 5w20 in my highly modified motor, I also drive like a complete douche. My 5w30 has most likely sheared down to a 20 wt after 3,000 miles, but how far has your 5w20 sheared?
Last edited by moosestang; 07-31-2012 at 07:39 PM.
#18
If you aren't sure, then it was most likely a 5w20. That's what Ford recommends. That doesn't mean your oil failed and cause the bearing to spin. Could you have over revved the motor by missing a shift? Power shifting? More important than what oil should you run is running fresh oil and dumping it after. If you are making a lot of passes, then that's the equivalent of a few thousands miles of street driving, so you need to change that oil sooner.
I run pennzoil platinum 5w30 in my car. I'm not sure if you really need to break in these motors or any new motor nowadays, but it wouldn't hurt to run the motorcraft semi-synthetic for the first 1,000 miles. I think redline says to only use their oil after 3,000 mile break in.
I'm not going to tell you what oil you should use. Use whatever you are comfortable with. I'm not comfortable using 5w20 in my highly modified motor, I also drive like a complete douche. My 5w30 has most likely sheared down to a 20 wt after 3,000 miles, but how far has your 5w20 sheared?
I run pennzoil platinum 5w30 in my car. I'm not sure if you really need to break in these motors or any new motor nowadays, but it wouldn't hurt to run the motorcraft semi-synthetic for the first 1,000 miles. I think redline says to only use their oil after 3,000 mile break in.
I'm not going to tell you what oil you should use. Use whatever you are comfortable with. I'm not comfortable using 5w20 in my highly modified motor, I also drive like a complete douche. My 5w30 has most likely sheared down to a 20 wt after 3,000 miles, but how far has your 5w20 sheared?
powershifing...no. Missing a gear, totally possible. I think it might of happened on one or two runs. I know I saw the red light come on a few times when the revs where high. I hope that isn't a possibility for damage. I thought that would be "normal" I also thought the rev limiter was there for a reason...to keep the revs from going too high.
I might have to do some reaserch on this topic more before I hit the track. I assumed that is what these cars are made for....to go fast. and that (within reason) they should be able to take that little bit of punishment.
#19
Well, the word is I got a 2011 engine. I don't know if its just me...but it seems like its not as strong as my old engine. When I bought my car originally it had 1000 miles on it. Does it just need a little time? Do they get stronger as you put miles on them? ...again, maybe its in my head.
#20
The rev limiter will keep it from over revving, but if you are shifting to 4th and hit 2nd instead, then it will not save you. It's not good to be hitting the rev limiter. You may get better times by shifting lower anyway.
It's probably in your head and change your own oil!
It's probably in your head and change your own oil!