Simon1

I know what clutch that is and its a pile of junk. A friend of mine making around 550 rwhp had that guy put in three of his clutches and none of them worked properly. He had to get a Mcleod. Problem solved.

U R 11 5

From what this guy told me he doesnt do installs. He sells them to shops, speed shops, race teams but he said he doesnt install them. Maybe he did tho. Idk he comes high recommended but i think im going with the Spec3+ clutch Thanks for the help

moosestang

Unless you need a clutch that can handle 800 ft lbs of torque, i'd steer clear of the spec 3+. It's streetable, but it's still a very on/off clutch and not something I'd want to drive in traffic with. If you just want to save some money, the spec stage 2 is a very streetable clutch, not to be confused with the 2+, which several people have had problems with disengagement.

U R 11 5

Ya i don't need that much but I want that on/off feel. I love the feel of a race clutch. Plus once i build my motor i will need that much. Although when I do that ill have the different crank which is 8 bolt i think instead of stock 6 bolt. And I also want to go with the TR-6060 which ill need a different clutch then too. So maybe ill wait and do it all at once

Simon1

That's exactly what he told my buddy. You are putting in a part that can make your car drive awesome and be a dream to shift or make you have so many problems all you can do to fix it is get another clutch.

I think if you choose the clutch you are looking at, you should change your name to, "I M 11 5".

U R 11 5

Haha I was looking at the spec stage 2 clutch and the TQ rating is too low(520) If that is at the motor I'm already there. Id rather have more clutch available then not enough. Its only around $100 more for the spec stage 3+. Im not done with modding this car so a think a stronger clutch will be better. On american muscle they say its very streetable but like I said I like the on/off feel of a race clutch.

Maybe Ill change it to I M 11 5 lol

Simon1

Anyone on this board or any other making 500+ horsepower will jump up and down and insist on nothing but the RST. Almost stock feel, holds 800 hp,

Simon1

Anyone on this board or any other making 500+ horsepower will jump up and down and insist on nothing but the RST. Almost stock feel, holds 800 hp, quiet, no maintence, easier on the slave cylinder, lasts a long time.

I have heard very good things about the spec 3+. But after dealing with Specs customer service, I will never be a customer of theirs.

Diabolical!

+1 to everything above. I had a SPEC and it performed well enough considering the hell I put it through, but during install I called SPEC for support. Long story short, they thought I was calling because I had a problem with the clutch (which I didn't) and became so defensive that I got shut down before I even got to ask my question. I have a McLeod RXT now. No problems.

moosestang

It's streetable, as in I drive it on the street, but I'll replace it with a stage 2 next time if I'm still at this power level. The stage 2 is very streetable. I could let it out very slowly in reverse and it will back out of my driveway with no gas, no fuss, no muss, nothing. Try that with the stage 3+ and the car will shake to pieces. You can start from a stop smoothly with the 3+, but it's like walking a tight rope. You'lve got to do it just right or you'll get that slip/grap/slip/grap feeling that sucks.

On Specs website, they list the stage 2 at 599 ft lbs. I'm not sure why american muscle still lists it at 520. If you're making over 599 ft lbs at the crank, then you'll be buying a new clutch to go with your new engine soon anyway.

Whatever you buy, buy the flywheel to go with it. I would not try to resurface the stock flywheel, especially if it's been slipping. You can not remove hot spots from a flywheel. I like the spec billet steel flywheel because for $70 you can replace the friction disc and you have a new flywheel every time.