Maine-iac

This weekend we will be installing the ceramic JBA catforward headers. I am using Percy's seal-for-good gaskets and Stage8 bolts with Nickel anti-sieze. I plan to torque the bolts down in stages to 16 ft-lb - is that the correct torque spec? - and then set the Stage8 locks in place. I'm also installing Prothane bullet motor mounts while I'm in there. Since the car will be on the lift I am installing my Shaftmasters aluminum driveshaft. Should I use blue Loctite on the shaft bolts? Lastly, we'll be installing the FRPP X-Pipe and Corsa Xtreme axle-backs.

The car will be in for a host of mods this winter and I won't be able to road test/heat cycle the engine until spring. I will be able to start the car and check for leaks. Since I'm using Percy's and Stage8 locking bolts, will I need to go through the hassle of re-torquing the header bolts later on? Or am I good to go? Maybe I can overtoque slightly on the initial install - say 18 ft-lb - knowing that they will back off some as the gasket settles? You guys know how difficult it is to reach the bolts for a re-torque - and then I would have to reset the locks as well.

clowe1965

Frankly I'll be surprised if you can get a torque wrench in there at all. I eyeballed mine (done on the ground, but unless you drop the motor out a lift doesn't make a difference for clearance) and they haven't had any issues. Also stages, unless ford recommends other wise, won't be very practical as 16 ft-lbs isn't that much. Snug all the bolts up and then tighten them in the specified pattern. Then do whatever that crazy locking thing is you have, never heard of it.

Use some blue loc-tite on the driveshaft bolts yes.

no_mad11

I just used a socket wrench when I installed my header & exaust system. Tightened everything in the specified pattern & never had a problem. as for the driveshaft, I second the use of some blue loc-tite.

Diabolical!

You'll never be able to use a torque wrench on the header bolts if installing with the engine in the bay. Just torque them good and tight without trying to break the head off of the bolts. I would still retorque them after a few heat cycles. I used Blue loc-tite on my driveshaft bolts.

Maine-iac

Thanks for the feedback.
Anybody know what the specified pattern is?

MadMike1337

get a can of liquid wrench and spray all the bolts. ur also gonna wana get a hold of some open end flex wrenches... however i forget the sizes u need, hopefully someone will chime in on that. there is also an oil coating on them u will see smoke dont be alarmed! lol

vid -

S197GT07

Use the German torque method for the header bolts. That's what I used and mine have 0 leaks.

Cant remember if I used anti-seize on the header bolts though...

hmmm. Might be an excuse to get some new heads down the road, haha.

Good luck!

clowe1965

Also get a ratchet crecent wrench, 5.0 needed a 13 and 15 mm.

808muscle

13mm flexhead ratcheting wrench is a must for those header bolts. Give up on the torque wrench. Dont be surprised if you spend all weekend on the headers. Its a LONG job. Wear gloves or blood loss could be dangerous! LOL

DS install, yes you need blue locktite. Make sure to clean all the factory locktite out of there too. Enjoy setting the pinion angle.......lots of conflicting info on how to properly do that. Hope you are installing a loop for that shaft too. Good luck, thats a lot of work.

Diabolical!

After trying a few different suggestions, I wound up being happiest with -2 degrees of pinion angle measured using the driveshaft itself for one figure and the rear pinion flange for the other.