BOSS intake or DR's?!
#12
I can speak from experience. DR's cause slight wheel hop which breaks ****. Mine broke the axle tubes on my rearend. Now, new rearend goes in in 2 wks, new solid LCA's, and UCA's and some LCA lowering brackets. Although I prolly have a bit more power atm. Still though in some of my vids on youtube you can see the wheel hop even in the burnout.
#13
Go with a real slick on an MT car...really. You're gonna do what you're gonna do but, you'll thank me later if you take my suggestion. Don't worry about tubes and crap, just coat th inside with dish soap and slide 'em on, they'll be fine.
As for arms, most of the wheelhop is coming from the upper arm, not the lowers. You might get it under control with lowers but the upper arm is still there, waiting to bite you.
As for arms, most of the wheelhop is coming from the upper arm, not the lowers. You might get it under control with lowers but the upper arm is still there, waiting to bite you.
Last edited by P51C; 04-01-2013 at 07:16 PM.
#14
I can speak from experience. DR's cause slight wheel hop which breaks ****. Mine broke the axle tubes on my rearend. Now, new rearend goes in in 2 wks, new solid LCA's, and UCA's and some LCA lowering brackets. Although I prolly have a bit more power atm. Still though in some of my vids on youtube you can see the wheel hop even in the burnout.
for people saying dr's are dangerous - arent slicks more likely to break stuff than dr's? also its not legal to even drive on the street with slicks.
op dont get the boss manifold until you are more modded or centri sc'ed
Last edited by Andy13186; 04-01-2013 at 09:00 PM.
#15
what shocks do you have? i dont think wheel hop would be possible with a good shock that actually has rebound damping
for people saying dr's are dangerous - arent slicks more likely to break stuff than dr's? also its not legal to even drive on the street with slicks.
op dont get the boss manifold until you are more modded or centri sc'ed
for people saying dr's are dangerous - arent slicks more likely to break stuff than dr's? also its not legal to even drive on the street with slicks.
op dont get the boss manifold until you are more modded or centri sc'ed
It may not be legal on the road but, you aren't ripping up the start line at the track like all the other radial cars either. That's much appreciated by your fellow competitors.
#16
There are street legal bias ply slicks. The Hoosier QTP (which I run) is DOT legal, so are the Mickey Thompson ET Street Bias Plys. Now, would I ever use them as street tires? HELL NO. Track only. They may be street legal, but you'd be lucky to get 2,000 miles out of them and they're an accident waiting to happen.
I do agree with P251 though. For the track, you can't beat a good bias ply tire with these manual transmissions.
I do agree with P251 though. For the track, you can't beat a good bias ply tire with these manual transmissions.
#17
Absolutely not. DRs are stiff and redirect force onto the axles, tubes, gear and suspension components. Slicks have more give and soak that strain up in themselves.
It may not be legal on the road but, you aren't ripping up the start line at the track like all the other radial cars either. That's much appreciated by your fellow competitors.
It may not be legal on the road but, you aren't ripping up the start line at the track like all the other radial cars either. That's much appreciated by your fellow competitors.
i wonder how toyo r888's would be for an all around high performance tire
#18
Tires dude.....by far it's the best mod for the track. Your mph is an 11 second slip easy. I raced both bias ply and DRs at the track. Low psi in the bias ply gets kinda floaty at the top end. Some people really hate that feeling. DRs don't have that issue, just something to consider.
#19
With any drag tire but especially with bias slicks, have the right sized rim recommended for the tire, start your pressure high, like 25 pounds and, lower it in increments until your 60' stops improving.
Running the highest pressure it'll take without blowing off will net best ET and reduce rolling resistance for a higher mph. It'll also reduce that roll/yaw coupling one gets at the top end from the radial/bias mismatch.
Running the highest pressure it'll take without blowing off will net best ET and reduce rolling resistance for a higher mph. It'll also reduce that roll/yaw coupling one gets at the top end from the radial/bias mismatch.