Derf00

Good to hear it got fixed!

Not sure why they would complain about the mods though? Not related to the actual TSB. I guess some dealerships point out irrelevant things?

Derf00

Yeah, that's about par for the course with them. I had their dual exhaust conversion for my 00 v6. It was good in that it was a header back system wtih high flow cats and turn down tips so I didn't have to modify my bumper.

Sounded good but in order to get them to fit I had to cut 3 inches off the X-pipe and the angles were slightly off where it went over the axle. I had a choice, let it rub the shock or hit the body. I chose neither and took it to a shop to get them wedged in there correctly. I would occassionally get a rapping sound over speed bumps. I lived with it until I sold the car about a year later.

StangLife

Think maybe it's been leaking right from the beginning and it actually prevented the rust? It kind of irritates me that they are bare metal from the factory like that.

I used VHT roll bar paint and it's very durable.
http://93coupe.com/mustang-8-8-rear-...l-and-cleanup/

Gary Ugarek

I think I may paint it next time I have it in the air... right now I am approaching 10k on the clock quickly so it is coming off the road and I am picking up a 2000 vert as a Daily driver.

BrianK

I have an 07 GT and had the same issue with oil residue on the axle (passenger side). THe OP photo looks like the same little vent 'thingy' I had on mine. I installed the baster bulb and have had no further issues with oil venting on the axle. I haven't looked closely at it to see if it is melting though. Something else to do.

VistaBlueFrank68

That's good, when I first saw that picture I thought you had twisted an axil tube or busted a seal? Doing any real hard launches? The Shop I go to wanted me to let them weld the tubes to the differential pumpkin so they don't twist on a hard launch. I'm thinking Swarr-Bar instead. Has anyone else welded their diff for drag racing?

tbear853

Every time I crawl under our 2008 there are a couple drops rear gear lube clinging to the snout.
I never see a drop on the carport floor though.
I have checked the level a few months ago by pulling the fill plug just long enough to see there was plenty of lube in there waiting to get out. Since then we've put some miles on it with some several day trips an last month, went to CMS for the 50th.

Today I backed her up onto my ramps, not steep ones, just enough for me to get under it. I see FoMoCo says 3/16" below fill plug. Mine is some over the fill plug still, it's the factory fill.

I have read a lot of posts on the net from Mustang owners having pinion seal replacements for leaks and many others from those who find the factory fill like mine, above the hole.
I suspect the two are maybe connected, and a spring loaded vent doesn't help.

For now, I am leaving the factory fill as is, minus the teaspoon worth that I've let escape. I pulled the factory rattle cap vent off, 9/16" wrench .... and found the threads are 7/16-20 straight. I popped the top off, it's got a weak spring pressing a rubber piece down onto end of vent. I saved that.

I took a brass 3/8" hose barb that was threaded some larger and turned it down and used a die to cut 7/16-20 threads . It's near an inch from the outer edge of axle tube to axle shaft inside, so I'm good even though I have a longer threaded portion. Temporarily I have a piece of 3/8 hose clamped to it and clamped to a U shaped piece of copper tubing. 3/8" OD with open end pointed downwards.

I want to see if a "no restriction" vent eases the slight pinion seal seepage (some of my other Fords have vents with no spring loaded rubber disc, just tubes that go up and then have a turn down and they don't leak at the pinion seal, three of them are also 8.8 rears).

The vent is needed to relieve pressure as oil expands when it get's warmed and a rear end gets really warm in use as the gear's teeth "slide" past each other in operation.

I know that the vent on the tube is well above the proper lube level by a bunch volume wise, there is little danger of loosing axle lube by a loose vent unless you roll the car on to it's roof and leave it with that end of the axle lower than the other .... and in such a case what does it matter?



Or else it just a sign of a well developed set of muscles in the hand.

tbear853

We (a buddy and I) used to on some Chevy 12 bolt rears back in the early-mid '70s on several cars that saw some strip use with slicks and gear. We had seen some twist the tubes out so we did the welding to the 12 bolt we put under the '65 GTO he had, later was mine ... and the one in his '68 Chevelle which was his first "strip only" car before he went with a '68 Camaro. I moved away after getting on with the state in '78 and my buddy who kept racing his '68 Camaro eventually went with a Ford 9" and Summers axles.

I never did do it to my '67 Chevelle, but I thought about it .... or a 9". Sold it first in '84.

jdback19

Well this explains the oil all over the diff area on the back of my '14 GT. I was like "Where the **** is all this coming from!?"

tbear853

May 21 I posted in part:
Well, since then with just the fitting to hose and a 180 degree piece of copper, no vent restrictions .... "Wife Unit" and I took the Mustang on a drive down to far SW Virginia to see family and I'm guessing it was near about 250 miles 'round trip.

Yesterday (Saturday) morning I backed her up onto a couple ramps on my "shop apron" and slid underneath for a look. First time I did so and found NO drops of gear lube hanging on the bottom of the differential housing behind the pinion flange, still as clean and dry as I left it after removing factory vent and adding my temp vent. Checked level, there's plenty in there.

So .... I'm thinking very strongly that the factory vent cap with spring and rubber disc acting as a one way valve was building just enough pressure to maybe "encourage" some passage of gear lube past the pinion seal when warm.

So .... Yesterday I left the short piece of 3/8" rubber clamped on the hose barb fitting I described (uses 7/16"-20 thread) and above that, a 180 degree bend of 3/8" copper tubing positioned so it would miss the exhaust or frame on full load .... and attached a length of hose on the down pointing open end and ran it over into the hole of the frame so it's not subject to water spray or windage. It's also pointed still downwards inside that frame rail so no puddles can develop in it.

I'll continue to check it when servicing ....
.... but unless I see more drops hanging on, I'm calling it "fixed".