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Best Performance out of 2006 Mustang GT without forced induction?

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Old 06-11-2013, 06:34 PM
  #11  
CMcNam
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It sounds like you've been turned off to forced induction without really knowing why. That M90 kit you mentioned is plenty safe for the stock engine with the supplied tune, and at one point was even installed on factory Mustangs with a warranty. There are a number of other folks here who are running forced induction past what is generally considered safe horsepower numbers because they have a good tune for it. Don't rule out all the possibilities just yet.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:01 PM
  #12  
Nuke
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^ That.

And FI is reliable as a DD.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:12 PM
  #13  
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I'm going to chime in and say that longtubes might not be the best idea for a N/A car. I just installed Kooks LTs on my car with a Roush CAI/Bama tune, Roush UDPs, and aluminum driveshaft. I no longer have the kick in the low end (below 3-3.5K RPMs) that I did before. Sure, it takes off like a raped ape above that, but with my Roush Extremes and the Kooks catted X pipe, it's quite noisy once I get to that range. And for a street driven car, I'm not always above 3-4K RPMs.

I miss that low end punch, so much so that I plan on putting BBK shorty tuned length headers on with the stock H pipe, and calling my exhaust done. (Look for virtually brand new Kooks LTs with catted X to be for sale soon haha).

I originally wanted to get FRPP Hot Rod cams, but from what I read, those also don't do so well in the low end, and I'm afraid to do anything else that will take away from my low end torque. I know people will tell you LTs or nothing, but all I know is that even if a dyno sheet may say that I have more HP now with the Kooks, I prefer how it drove before the headers. I probably wouldn't have put shorties on to begin with, but after my learning experience with LTs, I plan on putting them on there. Live and learn I suppose.
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:29 AM
  #14  
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Look at a set of Kooks longtubes and H-pipe to pick up some nice gains. Also a set of hot rod cams and Steeda charge motion deletes. The Comp Cams NSR cam are very comparable as well. If you want to dig a little deeper I have heard great things about the new FRPP intake as well. Good luck!

Esch : You need to have a new tune written with low end torque emphasized. Kooks L/T's for your car should make it a beast from 2000 and up, definitely try some different tunes before you take them off. Also the H/R cams are a great match for a street car.

Last edited by KOOKS Headers; 06-12-2013 at 07:32 AM.
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:49 AM
  #15  
07 GT E UPP
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Long time ago, I was determined to stay NA like you. However, Over time I found it to be a waste of time and money. FYI, your goal is possible...My '07 GT was able to get 355 RWHP with... Kooks Long Tubes, Kooks High flow Catted H Pipe, Steeda Pulleys, Delete Plates, FRPP 62mm Throttle Body, C&L Cold Air Kit, 94 Octane Dyno Tune, FRPP HotRod Cams and installed 4:10 gears to keep my low end. Good luck and have fun !!
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:29 AM
  #16  
02GTowner
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I have seen cars dyno in the at 300 rwhp with only a tillman tune, CAI, axle back exhaust and some underdrive pulleys. Here is one:
Now combine some stepped headers, charge motion delete plates, the FRRP manifold, a 62MM tb and another really good tune and I think you could be at or very close to 350 RWHP.

Last edited by 02GTowner; 06-13-2013 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:46 PM
  #17  
red96v6
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I know youre looking for NA, but FI is really the best way to make power. Like people have said, reliability is all in the tune.

My 07 has been supercharged for over 3 years and probably 20k (maybe closer to 30k) miles now. Im Brenspeed tuned with a few other goodies and my boost gauge shows 12psi. Never been near a dyno, but Brenspeed shows the base HO kit good for 460-480 RWHP.
Started off as a daily driver and stayed that way for probably a year after the blower. Im generally easy on it for everyday driving, but I do get into boost at least once because its a rush. I have pushed it to the limits a few times too. Have yet to have any issues with the motor.
Plus you can drive all day without touching boost. Ive taken her on several 200-400 mile road trips and she can average 27-28 mpg cruising on the highway. Averages 19-20 mpg otherwise. Hand calculated.
No problems at all with the car (except for the crap transmission, but thats been since day one). I do take very good care of it and probably waste money on the frequency of my maintenance.
If you get a good tune from a reputable tuner, keep an eye on your vehicles systems, and keep it maintained, you should not have anything to worry about with FI.
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:21 PM
  #18  
02GTowner
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I was told by a very reliable tuner that these 3v engines are can sustain 450 HP max before they start having potential issues with internal engine reliability. Namely the rods. If you are looking to add boost in the future you may want to just invest in a built short block. Either naturally aspirated or forced induction you know the engine can handle it. Because honestly what fun is it if you arent sure the short block can take whatever you throw at it.

I personally want around 320 RWHP and 350 ft lb of torque and I will be good. The trans and diff can live a long and happy life at those power levels in stock trim.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:14 AM
  #19  
808muscle
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I had pretty much all the bolts ons before I installed the m90 blower. Cams did cause me to lose some low end torque and I have 4.10 gears. I was not happy about it but those mods did make my car faster at the track. Adding the blower gave the car the punch I was looking for. If I were to do it again, I would forego the cams. Longtubes are a great NA mod IMO. They made my car two tenths quicker at the track and sound like a beast.
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Old 06-15-2013, 06:26 AM
  #20  
outceltj
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As was mentioned u can blow your motor with just a tune. FI is reliable and has been for me (4 years). The key is if your car doesn't seem right call your tuner right away. You can ask the good folks here about your problem but always call them even if your not tuned for FI. And make sure customer service is reliable with the tuner u choose. Brenspeed is second to none in opinion.

As far as mods. You can do all that and still have the bug for more. If u have an auto I'd get a torque convertor. Second best mod for butt Dyno!! If u have 355 then I'd stick with those. 373 isn't enough to notice.

Just keep in mind a motor can pop without a supercharger. Less likely sure but it has happened. Stick with reliable tuners like brenspeed and you will be fine. Especially if we change your mind on FI. There r guys running 500 at the and have been for awhile and still running strong. Diabolical is one that comes to mind
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