dlazrael

As the title says, I'm endeavoring on a mission to change my clutch. From what I understand it's approx. a 6-7 hour job. I'm mechanically inclined, but this is my first clutch. I've got my Hanes for the step by steps, as well as a full assortment of tools and a garage at my disposal (Base Hobby Shop NAS Pax River, MD).

So, I was wondering what pointers if any some of you guys have that wouldn't be covered by the hanes manual/shop manuals?

Installing an Exedy Mach 500, Exedy lightweight steel flywheel, FRPP Pilot Bearing, Exedy hydraulic TOB

Ditty

Be methodical and do NOT get too frustrated. I've done the clutch in my F350 by myself 3 times and it is NOT a fun job.

Pay ultra attention to where/how everything is installed
DISCONNECT the battery before your start!! (I've forgotten to disconnect it every time and have shocked the crap out of myself every time taking the starter off.
Make sure you have locktite for the bolts and that you USE it. lol
Torque wrench will save your life on getting everything "not too tight" (I've done this too and ended up breaking a bolt for the flywheel inside the crank shaft.)
Take a friend with you b/c it makes things sooo much easier.
If they'll let you at the base hobby shop, get ALL of the tools you'll need before you start. This makes it easier also.
When installing the clutch disk with the alignment tool, make sure to 'jiggle' the tool around a little AS you are tightening the pressure plate. This makes sure that the clutch disk is centered perfectly.
Do not set the parking/emergency brake. Just in case you have to rotate the diff to reinstall the drive shaft. (done this too.)
Take plenty of "smoke breaks". It's a tough job and you don't wanna work too hard or too fast...that's how to mess things up.
Get a few bottles of Brake Clean and clean EVERYTHING as you take it out/off. This makes reinstall cleaner and easier.

I know I missed a LOT of things. You'll see when you do it.

CMcNam

I just did mine about two weeks ago and all I can say is...

GOOD LUCK.

It sounds like you've already taken care of the stuff I would recommend. Definitely use a lift, don't even bother without it (it's possible but it SUCKS). Ratcheting socket wrenches are a huge plus. Make sure everything (O2 sensors, clutch line, etc) is disconnected (I missed one thing and I spent several hours using choice words that probably upset the neighbors just to figure out I had to disconnect clutch line [DUH, DUH, DUH]; it popped right out after that). Remove the battery and the tray it's on to access the top transmission bolts. Lots of patience and some people you can vent to are the biggest help. I think if I had done it on a lift with some friends around me it would have been much easier. Get a case of beer to celebrate, because I think that after this everything will be a piece of cake (even rebuilding an engine). Don't let us scare you though, do it yourself.

Edit: I used the TacoBill "How To Install A McLeod RST" (different clutch, same principle) write-up on here as well as a Hane's manual and if I hadn't overlooked the stupid, simple things (use a lift, disconnect everything) it would have been a much easier job. Still a full day as you've said, but I took two because I got so fed up.

dlazrael

Thanks guys,

Yea, I've got a full assortment of tools that are my own (Craftsman stuff, but I get to use it at the shop) Just need them for the trans jack etc...
Gotta love the torque wrenches, got both for a cheap deal at Sears - $80 for the 3/8 in-lbs and the 1/2 ft-lbs!
I'm working on recruiting a friend who isn't working sunday.. though I may put it off for friday just in case I have to leave it overnight and come back saturday morning... too bad I can't drink beer at the hobby shop!
I'll print out taco bill's guide, thanks for the clue in - I totally forgot about his awesome write ups.

Maybe I can recruit Ditty to help me out... case of beer?

Diabolical!

I did it twice on jackstands. Won't be doing it that way again. My advice, lower the K-member when you start. Dropping the K-member two inches will make your life a lot easier. I've done plenty of RWD clutches. The S197 4.6L 3V is BY FAR the biggest pain in the ****.

moosestang

You can reach the top two bell housing bolts from above, don't even try from below. A cap to a royal purple gear oil bottle makes a great cap for the hydraulic line. Use a piece of duct tape to hold it there.

Turning the transmission 90 degrees CCW while on the trans jack makes removal easier. Be sure you have a slide hammer with the correct adapter for pilot bearings. You can rent them at autozone, but be sure to get the adapter.

Don't try and use wheel bearing grease to pop the pilot bearing out! I did that the first time, still couldn't get it out and the little bit of grease that was left in the cavity broke down and ruined my clutch.

Diabolical!

I use play-doh. Works like a charm and cheaper than the grease.

dlazrael

So this was a dismal failure.
No matter the amount of PB Blaster and elbow grease, the mid-pipe to header bolts wouldn't come off. With those not coming off, I couldn't get to the hydraulic clutch fitting to get that off. Then the starter.... I couldn't get my big hands to the top bolt of the starter, much less actually get it off.... Who designed this #*$&%^() s***T?!

Guess I'll have to end up paying a shop to do it now ><

Diabolical!

Like I said, pain in the ****. You're not the first guy to be defeated by the 4.6L 3V GT clutch.

uberstang1

If your mechanically inclined it won't be a 6+ hour job, Ive banged out a 3v clutch job in the ballpark of 3-4 hours with brewskie breaks. I'm sure your first time will be slow but its not bad as long as u have the proper tools. The top to bolts could be accessed from the top but easily from the bottom with a long extension and a swivel socket, u will have to jack up the motor from the crank pulley to give it the angle needed to get to them. Top starter bolt can be had from infront of the k member with proper extension also, and it also doesn't need to be put back in if u have that much trouble with it. Impact should be able to get the exhaust nuts off.