TekMan05

What's going on guys. I have a 2005 Mustang GT with a ton of the general bolt-on mods.
-JLT 110mm Intake
-Kooks Long Tube Headers 1 5/8'' primaries
-Detroit Rocker Camshafts
- SR Under drive pullies
-Charge Motion Delete plugs(2009 manifold swap)
-Stock 3.55 gears
-DDS Single piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
-Hurst Short Throw Shifter
-Gutted Cats
-H pipe
- Flowmaster 10 series 2.5''
-Brenspeed SCT Tuned
-Spec Stage 2 Clutch with Royal Purple Trans Fluid
-SR Strut Tower Brace
-Drilled/Slotted Brake Rotors
-J&M Adjustable Panhard bar
-J&M Rear lower control arms
-BMR adjustable rear upper control arm
-American Muscle Staggered Chrome Wheel set with Nitto NT555's 9.5'' front 10'' back 255/50/18, 275/50/18

Now I've considered Forced induction. But I will not do it on a stock bottom end as I'm just over 90,000 miles now. So with that said, I'm looking at the B326 short block which isn't cheap but would be a prime block to have that I could throw a pro-charger at later on if I want or just have a monster N/A Daily driver which this car is. If I drive 1,000 miles only 50-100 of them would be spirited driving or racing. But I do want to have a car that can keep up with my friend's 2014 Coyote he just got. He won't have the budget to do major power adders as he just got it and has family responsibilities as I don't and my car is paid off.
I also considered heads but read about the torque loss at least on lightly modded 3v's. Would they be a good fit with a 326 block? If not I'd keep the stockers and Detroit Rocker cams and swap those out for blower cams later if the time comes. I'm just looking for an idea to get the best wisely spent dollar for power and still keep my car drivable everyday. What are some of your thoughts on the stroker and heads specifically?

jpplaw

A N/A B326 with stock heads will add around 60 hp and around the same amount of torque. That should put you right around the same as a stock coyote at the wheels, and maybe a even a little better down low in the rpm range. B326's are torque monsters. I have around 40k miles on mine and it still runs the same as when it was brand new.

Later on if/when you go F/I you can add better heads and cams.

Dino Dino Bambino

Right now you're probably sitting at around 345rwhp & 330rwtq.
You could just bolt everything you have onto a B326 short block and be done with it. The only downside is that the B326 is built on a Ford Racing Boss 5.0L iron block so it'll add about 65lb more weight over the front wheels. Alternatively you could go for a B302 short block instead as that's built on an aluminum block.

TheDutchTexan

I always wondered what a B326 would do tricked out with N/A boltons. Those 65 pounds is going to make it heavier in the nose, but what does the average supercharger setup weigh? The power gain is still going to make the engine move less pounds per horse, so you'll be faster anyway!

And it is always nice to know you have an engine that will grenade your transmission in a heartbeat if you want to even venture half way into the power level it can support. That engine will not be the limiting factor in your quest for power.

I really want to start modding mine... But... I want so many things... And till that time, she stays stock. No reason to get butthurt when a SRT8 charger freighttrains my poor 4.slow. If I only had coyote power levels...

TekMan05

Sounds good. I was kinda thinking heads would be better changing when the time for a supercharger comes around. So I may just keep the top end with what I got now and just switch blocks and maybe change out the timing guides/tensioners and get a set of drag radials. Also about the weight, I also planned on changing to a tubular k-member (BMR) to help trim a little extra weight as well. Good to hear that displacement alone could get me right around coyote territory. Time to keep saving.

outceltj

You could use your stock block and just have brenspeed do a 302 which is what i did. My build ran north of 10k including everything. I went a little above and beyond with mine for instance I put billet gears in the oil pump and added ID injectors for better fuel delivery. either way you go you will be happy

Dino Dino Bambino

A B302 with your bolt ons will get close to a Coyote with the same mods, while the extra 24ci of a B326 should help it beat a Coyote pretty handily.

TekMan05

That's not a bad deal either for a N/A 3v. I'd be happy with that and if I ever get the itch to boost it later at least I know I'll have the right engine to throw whatever I like at it. What about other changes? I know motor mounts have to be changed. I'll probably replace the K-Member like I mentioned. What about fuel delivery?

jpplaw

The B326 has adapter plates on the block that the stock motor mounts bolt to. B302 is stock mounts too. Unless you're going F/I you really don't have to worry about fuel delivery.

dlazrael

Interested on info here..


B302 v the B326, I am looking (prolly a year from now) for one of the two. DD, some strip time, no auto-x, do like to carve some curves though.... I'd be moving my W140AX Whipple over to it... so what's a better idea? The aluminum 302 or a iron 326? End goal 600-700 rwhp (with all supporting mods etc)... Just looking for some ideas