Another tick/knock thread - but different?
12-11-2015, 11:03 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 32
Another tick/knock thread - but different?
Afternoon everyone,
Yes, this is one of many 289 modular tick/knock threads... Only having read through others' posts and discussions, mine doesn't seem too common.
Long story short: 75K miles, 5 SPD, stock minus Flowmaster's and a short-throw. I've only had the vehicle for ~5 months, and only just recently started driving it daily. I don't beat on it, have only had WOT a few times, no slamming gears, etc... but it developed the dreaded ticks and knocks.
Yes, it has a top-end tick, which I'm certain is lash adjusters / phaser / some other commonality, fine. But I have a knock that's very pronounced on the bottom end. It comes from around the oil pan / trans to flywheel area, though I don't have a lift to get closer and specify more. Perhaps you can hear it here. You'll hear the top end, which is pretty isolated, but it's way louder underneath - hopefully my microphone picked it up. This noise only happens below ~1,800 RPM, I don't really feel a loss of power, but sometimes I feel a rough idle. But it is loud enough to hear it echoing in alleys, tunnels, next to parked cars, etc.
(
)
I do hear it coming through the mufflers ever so faintly. It doesn't do it when it's cold. Gets worse after stop-and-go / long drives. I recently put 5w30 full syn to quiet it down, which helped. Also ran MMO through it prior to oil change. Still pretty pronounced.
Thoughts? Possible common problems you've seen that cause this? Let it go? Wait for impending doom? This is now my daily driver, otherwise I wouldn't worry. And I apologize in advance for probably boring you... but right now, due to a lot of personal matters, I don't have the cash or the means to fix it... and if this thing goes, i'm !@#$ed.
Yes, this is one of many 289 modular tick/knock threads... Only having read through others' posts and discussions, mine doesn't seem too common.
Long story short: 75K miles, 5 SPD, stock minus Flowmaster's and a short-throw. I've only had the vehicle for ~5 months, and only just recently started driving it daily. I don't beat on it, have only had WOT a few times, no slamming gears, etc... but it developed the dreaded ticks and knocks.
Yes, it has a top-end tick, which I'm certain is lash adjusters / phaser / some other commonality, fine. But I have a knock that's very pronounced on the bottom end. It comes from around the oil pan / trans to flywheel area, though I don't have a lift to get closer and specify more. Perhaps you can hear it here. You'll hear the top end, which is pretty isolated, but it's way louder underneath - hopefully my microphone picked it up. This noise only happens below ~1,800 RPM, I don't really feel a loss of power, but sometimes I feel a rough idle. But it is loud enough to hear it echoing in alleys, tunnels, next to parked cars, etc.
(
I do hear it coming through the mufflers ever so faintly. It doesn't do it when it's cold. Gets worse after stop-and-go / long drives. I recently put 5w30 full syn to quiet it down, which helped. Also ran MMO through it prior to oil change. Still pretty pronounced.
Thoughts? Possible common problems you've seen that cause this? Let it go? Wait for impending doom? This is now my daily driver, otherwise I wouldn't worry. And I apologize in advance for probably boring you... but right now, due to a lot of personal matters, I don't have the cash or the means to fix it... and if this thing goes, i'm !@#$ed.
Last edited by Tivo304; 12-11-2015 at 11:08 AM.
12-11-2015, 12:43 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 32
A spun bearing or main bearing would probably sound terrible regardless of temp, wouldn't it? I imagine it would also be way worse-sounding, and probably be worse the more the engine turns.
01-13-2016, 10:14 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 32
It's gotten cold here, snowed and is below freezing. Cold starts = no diesel noise. Warmed up after commute = very obvious. It got more diesel-y, but still seems to go away above 1,500 RPM. It's definitely not a very metallic knock, more of a tap / click, if that makes any sense. Changing all the spark plugs today to rule out that, since I've heard this being a cause of engine knock in the S`197. I'll also record the audio and get a more obvious version of the noise.
I know no one else has responded to this post, but I see loads of guys who get these similar issues. Figured I should contribute my own case for reference.
01-13-2016, 01:06 PM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 960
There is a trick to doing those plugs since they have a tendency to break. Best way my techs found to do these was as follows:
-Have the engine at running temperature
-"crack" open the plugs. That means just enough to break them free, no more than.
-put some PB Blaster or equivalent into the plug hole. More than just a drop or two. A fair amount. Let this soak overnight to soften up the carbon build-up.
-Go back and forth a couple times when initially taking out these plugs, then remove as normal.
-Once plugs are out, and none have broken off, remove fuel pump relay and turn over the engine a couple rotations to get excess fluid out, if there is any.
-Gap and install new plugs. If you use the Motorcraft as replacements, they are two piece, like the originals and will need this procedure followed again when its time. Champion makes 1 piece plugs. they don't break. Although they are also almost $20 each.
If you have not done, or heard about how different these plugs are, you should do a bit of research prior to embarking on something that can royally screw you over.
If the noise changes due to oil differences (weight, or temp), spark plugs will not have any effect on it.
-Have the engine at running temperature
-"crack" open the plugs. That means just enough to break them free, no more than.
-put some PB Blaster or equivalent into the plug hole. More than just a drop or two. A fair amount. Let this soak overnight to soften up the carbon build-up.
-Go back and forth a couple times when initially taking out these plugs, then remove as normal.
-Once plugs are out, and none have broken off, remove fuel pump relay and turn over the engine a couple rotations to get excess fluid out, if there is any.
-Gap and install new plugs. If you use the Motorcraft as replacements, they are two piece, like the originals and will need this procedure followed again when its time. Champion makes 1 piece plugs. they don't break. Although they are also almost $20 each.
If you have not done, or heard about how different these plugs are, you should do a bit of research prior to embarking on something that can royally screw you over.
If the noise changes due to oil differences (weight, or temp), spark plugs will not have any effect on it.
Last edited by SCCAGT; 01-13-2016 at 02:18 PM.
01-13-2016, 11:08 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 32
Couldn't snap a video, phone died. The sound has become more specified in its location - it's actually more pronounced inside the cabin than outside the vehicle. Still an audible click / tick coming from the fenderwells and underneath though. It actually sounds most pronounced from underneath and behind the vehicle... but it's not coming through the pipes themselves. Could this be a sign of an exhaust leak?
01-14-2016, 04:30 PM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 960
In order for an exhaust leak to tick, it needs to be close to the engine. So, exhaust manifold crack, gasket, and Maybe the joint from manifold to mid-pipe. Anywhere else and it just makes the typical loud noise. At an idle, exhaust leaks are not very loud. Have to rev it or power brake to make it louder for pinpointing. Yes it can be heard inside, but would still be plenty audible when looking under the hood. Which begs the next question: Does it get louder when you accelerate vs idling?
In a different thread, someone has some fairly noisy injectors. Loud enough to hear with the hood closed. Do what he did to check those. An auto stethoscope or screwdriver placed on the front of the valve cover to rule out cam phasers. On the injectors to see if the timing of the clicks are in syn with what you hear outside. All the injectors will make noise, just gotta use both ears to tie them together.
If we cant get any farther with internet diagnosing, a shop visit may be in your future.
In a different thread, someone has some fairly noisy injectors. Loud enough to hear with the hood closed. Do what he did to check those. An auto stethoscope or screwdriver placed on the front of the valve cover to rule out cam phasers. On the injectors to see if the timing of the clicks are in syn with what you hear outside. All the injectors will make noise, just gotta use both ears to tie them together.
If we cant get any farther with internet diagnosing, a shop visit may be in your future.
Last edited by SCCAGT; 01-14-2016 at 04:35 PM.
01-16-2016, 10:33 AM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 32
In order for an exhaust leak to tick, it needs to be close to the engine. So, exhaust manifold crack, gasket, and Maybe the joint from manifold to mid-pipe. Anywhere else and it just makes the typical loud noise. At an idle, exhaust leaks are not very loud. Have to rev it or power brake to make it louder for pinpointing. Yes it can be heard inside, but would still be plenty audible when looking under the hood. Which begs the next question: Does it get louder when you accelerate vs idling?
In a different thread, someone has some fairly noisy injectors. Loud enough to hear with the hood closed. Do what he did to check those. An auto stethoscope or screwdriver placed on the front of the valve cover to rule out cam phasers. On the injectors to see if the timing of the clicks are in syn with what you hear outside. All the injectors will make noise, just gotta use both ears to tie them together.
If we cant get any farther with internet diagnosing, a shop visit may be in your future.
In a different thread, someone has some fairly noisy injectors. Loud enough to hear with the hood closed. Do what he did to check those. An auto stethoscope or screwdriver placed on the front of the valve cover to rule out cam phasers. On the injectors to see if the timing of the clicks are in syn with what you hear outside. All the injectors will make noise, just gotta use both ears to tie them together.
If we cant get any farther with internet diagnosing, a shop visit may be in your future.
01-18-2016, 01:08 PM
#9
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 960