flash_xx

Let's see. Koni STR'T's with Steeda sport springs, FRPP Sway bars, both set to middle hole, Lower control arms with poly bushings and whiteline relocation brackets, upper adjustable whiteline control arm with steeda spherical bearing on diff side. GT500 Front control arms with Maximum motorsports caster/camber plates. Upper and lower strut bars in the front and upper strut bar in the rear. Tires are 285/35R19 on 19x10 wheels all around. Brembo brakes.

Car does push a bit, next time I'll play with the sway bars to see if I can make it rotate better. Also, I'm going to give it more camber. 2.5 to 3 degrees. Was running 2 last time.

The reason I was looking at a diff is because on tight corners I can feel the inner tire slipping. Even on the road, if one rear tire loses traction or goes in the air, like when taking a speed bump at an angle, the car will spin the tire for a couple of seconds before engaging the limited slip. Also, I figured with a higher bias ratio the car would rotate better.

P51C

OK, a tight stack might help here. Primary added grip will be initial throttle application, which is what you are looking for. The up side of doing this is, it's cheap and you can do it without messing with the ring and pinion.

I'd suggest cutting down the friction modifier as well. Go with none may be too noisy and choppy but, use as little as you can stand.

flash_xx

Well, since I did my own ring and pinion swap I'm familiar with taking the rear end apart. How do you do the tight stack? I know there are carbon fiber plates, but is there a guide on which particular order to stack them? I know how to disassemble the diff, it's the plate order that has me confused.

Thanks for the help!

P51C

The CF plates will be very noisy without friction modifier...

You`re really testing memory here, as I haven`t done this live since I owned an 88 Mustang. However, I believe the factory stack is F-S-S-F-S-S-F.

Better is F-S-F-S-F-S-F.

Alternatively for the absolute cheapest improvement, you could just shim the stack tighter and add no plates.

If you`re having trouble getting the centre shaft in, rotate the assembly a couple times to settle it.

The S spring is a real bitch. I ultimately left it out altogether, as its only purpose is to provide stack preload in VERY low traction conditions like ice. Most report more low speed understeer with it in or lift-throttle oversteer. Your choice. To put it in, squish it partially in a vise, hose clamp it, leg to curve, put it in and cut the clamp. Watch your fingers and wear eye protection; lots of stored energy there.

flash_xx

I need to binge watch youtube. I didn't know you could run the diff without the S spring. Thanks for the tips