Mustang damaged in a wreck, questions about how insurance works -

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Old 04-17-2018, 03:32 PM   #1  
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Default Mustang damaged in a wreck, questions about how insurance works

So I got hit yesterday in my mustang while taking my daughter to her boyfriends baseball game. Without the slightest doubts, was the other drivers that part is totally over and without dispute (police confirmed she was ticketed for failure to yield).

The damage was mostly confined to my rear passenger wheel area. There is a dent right above the center of the wheel well with scratches another few feet, and the rear bumper was partially tore off on the one side, but worst of all.....the majority of the damage seems to be centered on my rear passenger wheel itself, my Alcoa's, and the undercarriage that it attaches to. The wheel itself is toast. Its bent, and gouged, and totally unrepairable. Either the control arms are also bent or the frame is because the left drivers side rear wheel definitely sticks out past the fender, while the impacted passenger side wheel is actually now underneath the fender on that side (so the whole rear end is moved over). In addition to it being moved over, that same passenger wheel now sits much further towards the rear of the car verses being in the middle as it should be.

My question is(and I'm not looking to start any arguments or anything, but I've never been in an accident before, so I have NO knowledge what-so-ever about how this part works), how does replacing the wheel work?? In other words...obviously the Alcoa's aren't even made anymore. They haven't been for some years now, and there are rarely any to be found to be able to purchase. So how will the insurance try to handle it, and how should I allow them to? Obviously, buying a replacement wheel of something else is a wont match what I had on the car. Do they have to buy a different set of wheels for me that I want (within reason)? Am I **** out of luck??

Just looking for advice on how to best handle it and also trying to get an idea what to expect from the insurance. I've been fortunate to have this be the first accident I've ever been involved in since I started driving 34 years ago, so to say I'm clueless about how this should work or play out would be an understatement.

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Old 04-17-2018, 04:16 PM   #2  
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Depends on the insurance company.

They have a percentage they use, like, if the car is worth $9000, and damages
are $6500+, they may total the car. Happened to my son TWICE. The loan was
still $13000, the insurance paid $9000, and GAP covered the rest. I have GAP,
and always get it, it's cheap enough. You have 30 days from purchase to get
GAP coverage.

SO, you have to see what you're KBB resale value is and hope. Like mine, with high miles,
is $7200, so if damages went to ~$6000, they'd total it... I got full coverage on it,
even though I don't drive it much. I didn't get GAP on this one though, they didn't
even ask, so it went over my head this time...

Anyhow, once you get over 75% of the cars value in damages, they won't fix it.

My company, hands me the check, and I fix it how I see fit. I actually bought my '08
Mustang from two prior claims where I got the checks, and my cost to fix the car
was $480 ($2400 check) $1050 ($4200 check), then the last one cost me $425 to fix,
($2500 check). I work in a shop, and buy all the parts from eBay, and put them on
myself. I have $1200 left over from all three deer impact claims... Cars are getting
easier to repair. They miss parts here and there, but for what I pay for them -vs-
the checks I get, there is no sense in having the adjuster come back and reassess
the damages. Like, this time, he missed the core support, well, I can get one
for < $70.00, so there is no point in it. I got damages for a headlamp, and as it turns
out though, it's fine, the mount just pushed through the rad support. $245 for a
headlamp, I bought two aftermarket ones for $145, that I can sell and get a rad support.

ANYHOW, since it was not the drivers fault, and other person's insurance company will
take care of it. As far as the wheel, they have to try and find one, or replace all four
to match in some cases. There was a guy who hit a Delorian, just the driver door, and the
repair on the door was $900+, and the guy said that was outrageous! JUST THE DOOR he
argued. Well, that's because he didn't know the door is made of stainless steel, and has to
be special ordered or fabricated. This was a long time ago, now it would be $1200+ for just
a panel now.

Metal work and refinishing labor is the most costly portion of repairs... Parts can be
$500, but labor and refinishing be $1200.

They should do their best to find a matching wheel, or replace them all...

It should also not go against the driver's record, the OTHER driver was at fault.
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Old 04-18-2018, 01:34 AM   #3  
Dino Dino Bambino
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Can you post some pics of the damage?
Insurance companies will write off the vehicle if the repair cost is more than 70% of the value of the car. This means that older cars are more likely to be written off.
Labor is the biggest cost when it comes to repairs, and that'll be very high if there's frame damage. You could have the car towed to a repair shop to get a rough estimate and take it from there.
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