How to get 350 hp or more on a 2007 mustang gt v8 automatic
 

Hi guys
I'm new to this site I really need some help
iknow automatics are rated at 260 hp I think
I need to know what bolt ons will get me to the 350 hp range I know I wont get to 400hp with bolt ons Haha
thanks guys!

Bolt on supercharger

Easiest thing to do it is mentioned above. Supercharger.

Automatics, like manuals, are rated at 300 flywheel HP. The following bolt ons will get you to 350 flywheel HP:

JLT series 3 CAI
Charge motion delete plates (DIY)
Underdrive pulleys
Ford Racing cut n' clamp X-pipe
91 or 93 octane tune

If you want 400 flywheel HP you'll also need to add:

Long tube headers
CompCams Stage 2 NSR 127200 camshafts
Retune

Take a look at this page:

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/Mustang2006GT/Dyno.html

Underdrive pulleys do not ADD horsepower, they just free up what you already have.
People need stop putting them down as if they ADD horsepower. If your motor is 300 HP,
UDPs will not ADD anymore horsepower to the engine. They allow more of your BHP to
get to your wheels (WHP) So, 350 BHP? You can be assured that the UDPs play no
part in that.

Go ahead, DYNO your motor with and without UDPs, the BHP will not change, but WHP
will when on a Dyno roller to gauge WHP. There is no such term for flywheel HP, it's at the
crank, BHP. UDPs WILL NOT add BHP. WHP is not the same as BHP, the WHP is after
all the parasitic drag. UPDs will reduce some of that drag.

I call it 'flywheel' horsepower too :)

I respectfully disagree.
Underdrive pulleys reduce parasitic drag on the ENGINE so that the SAE net HP produced at the crank is increased (SAE gross HP as measured before 1972 with no air cleaner assembly, belt-driven accessories, or exhaust system connected would remain unchanged). RWHP is also increased in proportion to the crank HP increase since the drivetrain loss is unchanged.
A CAI, headers, and free-flowing exhaust reduce pumping losses and, like UDPs, increase SAE net HP at the crank without increasing SAE gross HP.
Whichever way you look at it, the package of mods I listed for 350 flywheel HP (or crank HP if you like) will yield ~305rwhp on a manual GT.

You can disagree all you want, parasitic drag does not change what's at the CRANK,
drag changes what gets to the wheels. Like I said, take any motor and put it on
a dyno, and measure the CRANK horsepower. Put a UDP on it, it WILL NOT
change! I can't believe you think they add BHP, they don't, and it's proven, and
it is FACT.

So, you mean to tell me, that if you take the serpentine belt off of the motor, it
will actually CREATE more horsepower at the crank? Nope... Why is that?

Do you know, (now you will) that EVERY SINGLE MOTOR's HP rating is WITHOUT
the accessory drive belt? Adding the serpentine belt DOES NOT lower the engine's
horsepower rating, EVER. All you have done now, was remove 10% HP of that to turn
the pulleys, thus reduces output to the wheels. Automatic transmissions parasite
another 15-20%.

Ask any speed shop what UDPs do, they'll tell you the same thing.

So then, I guess you also think that removing dead weight adds HP too...

So, go ahead, Dyno a motor with its factory crank pulley on it, without the serpentine belt.
Take note. Now, install your UDP, Dyno it again, and watch how the HP rating doesn't
change a bit! So, if installing a UDP adds horsepower, as you say, then why doesn't HP
increase at the crank with the UDP without the drive belt on? Yeah... See, UDPs do not
add BHP, never did, never will. They allow more of your engine's HP rating to get to the
wheels.

What he was saying is that MFG crank horsepower is measured with all belt driven accessories but none of the driveline (no transmission, driveshaft, rear end gears, axles or wheels/tires).
Under that industry standard definition, using an underdrive pulley does in fact increase horsepower. So would an electric water pump.

Once again you're wrong. Car manufacturers measure HP on an engine dyno and use the SAE net correction factor with the engine in as installed condition i.e. full air cleaner system, belt-driven accessories, and full exhaust system attached.
Engine building speed shops will often measure HP on an engine dyno with no air cleaner, no belt driven accessories (only electric water pump), and open headers. They also use the more generous STP dyno correction factor so their HP numbers are considerably higher (closer to the old SAE gross rating) than in real world conditions.