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manual .vs. auto (your answers INSIDE )

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Old 11-15-2005, 10:44 PM
  #21  
The Ghost
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Default RE: manual .vs. auto (your answers INSIDE )

Spyder, 4000 is HUGE!!! I can only imagine that your street driving has changed considerably. That much stall is really for full on race. I am old school racing having been around the track for 20+ years. As your engine HP/Tourque go up your stall decreases. A torque converter is really just a viscous coupling, as more force is exerted to it the harder it is to slip it. That is why the stall RPM has a little range instead of being a fixxed #. If you are planning on supercharging or NOSing it you will get a different reaction from it. But to keep it calm on the street you really need only go 3-5 hundred over stock. Standard in the Stang is around 2500. A 3000rpm converter is all MOST of us will want to go to.
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:08 PM
  #22  
spyder7724
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Default RE: manual .vs. auto (your answers INSIDE )

i agree a 3000-3500 is probably perfect on the street for a daily driver. i wanted to get as much et as i could. since i race alot and the 4.6 3V makes it's torque and hp above 3400 i wanted 3500-3800 stall. well they got happy on my converter but thats ok as soon as someone gets the cams figured out i'll be able to go crazy with duration and really wake it up at 6000. you have to know that my car i just sold ran 9.20's with 1.25 60' times. this is like driving to the grocery store for me. i listen to the radio hell i could even change stations if i wanted to. daily driving has changed considerably but not so much that my wife can't drive it. the lock up still works so when your up to speed it's like having a stick shift. thats one thing i want to play with more i think i can pick up 2-3 more tenths through the lock up function and shift points.
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Old 11-16-2005, 12:34 AM
  #23  
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Default RE: manual .vs. auto (your answers INSIDE )

Yes, I too am waiting on a cam. i would love to see a .510 lift with 240 degrees duration. What an evil bottom end that would make, especially since we allready have variable lifters. I want LIFT. Have you done anything to your suspension as far as trailing arms? I am going to change to solid trailing arms next step after the torque converter. You mentioned a previous car you sold. I have a 65' mustang in the garage with a long rod 351 and an AOD tranny. It ran low 11's the last time I ran it (10 or more year ago) it sleeps peacefully in the garage now.
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Old 11-16-2005, 01:30 AM
  #24  
spyder7724
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i have a bunch of stuff on the floor ready to go on. ground control coilover kit,AJE k-member and shortened a-arms,adjustable panhard bar, front sway bar delete(lightweight radiator mount). haven't gotten to rear suspension yet but i'll just go with metco stuff i think. i'm hoping to lose over 100lbs. mostly on the front + the a-arms will allow me to use a spacer and a regular skinny front wheel without sticking past the fender. still working on the rear wheels i may have to bite the bullet and buy some bogarts. they aren't good for street use though. the rules my wife set: got to be able to drive the car, keep the leather seats, don't make it too loud. she would prefer no stickers but there is a lot of contingency money at nmra races so she'll understand.
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