The Ghost

Spyder, the driveshaft is a done deal. I did not know there was an affordable aluminum shaft for the 2005. Everything till now has been in the $700 range. I have an aluminum shaft on my 65' as well. The difference on that car was well...just damn.

spyder7724

yeah it cost me about $65 to get it shortened and rebalanced. not bad huh!! i had it kind of figured out before i even picked up my car. once i got it and measured a couple of rangers at the dealer i gave it a shot. i made one and sold it to someone else last month and he's trying to get me to start selling on his forum but the liability issue just scares me. what if some bonehead downshifts at 100mph with no d/shaft loop and it fails sending him into a loaded short bus or something. then making a few hundred bucks from selling them really won't pay the legal fees for keeping me from tossing salad everyday in jail!!!
don't forget to those four bolts for the companion flange. the stock one are too small so they won't work. the fronts are fine and use loctite on everything.
the factory tunnel brace needs to be removed and flipped upside down to clear the new shaft. you will see what i mean when you're under there.
i like the fact that ford uses the same stuff on many cars/trucks. we used to use ranger front rotors on fox body cars to do 5lug conversions. axles we used LTDII 5 lugs. i love doing that kind of stuff. everybody else is spending a fortune on stuff but if you can find the right person to get info from you can do some cool stuff for not a lot of money!

VernLaw

Do you know what that aluminum driveshaft is rated (hp, tq). I seem to remember my sister's 1997 Tzam came stock with some kind of composite or aluminum driveshaft and we ruined it twice before we used up the 3yr 36K warranty with a stock engine (285 bhp I believe).

I would love to try the mod, but does it have longevity?

spyder7724

???no rating but i was at JPC and took a good look at the one he has for the 05-06's and it looks the same only he uses the old style yoke in the rear. no difference in strength on that part. i know he has broken one in his car(watched him do it at MIR) so i'd say they are good to 600hp then you will break them. he shows no mercy to his car launches at 7000 or something with slicks. i'm surprised anything holds in that car weighing 3500lbs with 700rwhp and a stick shift. realistically i think they can handle 450-500rwhp stick and maybe a little more with an auto. if you are going to drag race alot with slicks and you have over 450rwhp i would strongly advise that you change the transmission since it's not going to hold either. then you can put in a convention driveshaft. our trans doesn't have a splined tail shaft for a slip yoke.that means the slip has to be in the shaft itself. the 5speed may have the capability of changing the tail shaft to retro fit an old style d/shaft but i don't think you can with the 5r55s auto trans.

VernLaw

Sounds safe enough. I won't be anywhere near 450 rwhp for a while!
My wife made me spend all my money on a new house. [sm=headbang.gif]

spyder7724

i have been cut off as well... just sold all my spare parts from the super gas car to get the bogarts and drag radials. still need to do the rear suspension...i wonder if we still need the living room furniture??????

jtscuba02

hey just a quick note, i bought the driveshaft and flange from my local frpp dealer for 256. check with your local dealers first. oh yeah, the cost to have it cut and rebalanced is 35 bucks here. and 757 you need to lighten up man. i told you good job if you got that much from those plates. my opinion is that they are like the new throttle bodies. jt

The Ghost

Spyder, my other passion is four wheel drives. Very high torque in a lot of situations. The yokes are far superior to a splined tailshaft. We have kits to make splined tailshafts sealed units with yokes. If anything is going to break it will be the U-joint which is cheap to fix. If it becomes too frequent then upgrade the U-joints. Spicer 1350 U-joints have something like a 24,000lb torque rating (And I break these in my Jeep). And you can get the yokes to change size on the mustang if you want too. The slip shaft driveshafts have more than twice the contact area of a slip tailshaft and i have never actually seen one fail, ever, in anything. The splined tailshaft is an issue if you drop a shaft you are also going to drop a lot of your tranny fluid. This is bad! I am very happy that the mustang does not have a splined tailshaft.

jtscuba02

hey ghost, what kind of jeep do you have? i have a 01 wrangler with a few goodies.

spyder7724

yeah i guess i'm just used to the old school stuff. you know old school car stuff i mean. sometimes i do wish i had a 5speed just to test this stuff.[sm=gears.gif]