Stang Skeleton

Hey guys, im still trying to figure out if i should just simply get the eibach pro kit or if i need to get cambers, shocks, struts, panhard, etc. I definitely do care about ride quality and find the stock ride firm for stock but still fine. So if i lower the vehicle, i dont want it to be any worse than it is, i also dont want the rear end to shift off center. Ive talked to a few shops and people, and some say you can install the prokit wihtout anything else and others say you need to change out shocks, struts, camber needs to be adjusted, panhard needs to be changed. Does anyone have a good ride with lowering springs? what do u guys think? thanks in advance.

PonyGT2005

I'm looking at this as well...from what I've read and from what folks have told me to date, the lowering springs just by themselves result in a slightly stiffer ride and that to retain (or possibly slightly improve) ride quality you need to upgrade the suspension to some extent. I'm interested in any expert opinions as well.
I've been thinking about the eibach anti-roll kit based on an article in MMFF a couple issues back and going with larger wheels.

JJ_Stang

If you lower the car at all you will need an adjustable Panhard bar, as the rear end will shift, You may need some type of camber adjustment as well some do some don't?? Not sure why, You may want to also replace the shocks and struts as they will be partially compressed at all times and they will not be able to have as much dampening when the car is lowered, you can get away without replacing the shocks eventually you may want to.

RPM

I just installed an Eibach Pro Kit in my '06. An adjustable panhard bar is NOT needed. The rear did not shift over after lowering! I measured before and after to verify and found it was 1/16" off center before and after! A camber kit is advisable as camber will be more negative after lowering, the more you lower the more negative it will be. Too much negative camber will lead to increased tire wear. Experts advise to get camber close to zero for best tire wear. Mine finished out at -1 LH -.8 RH degrees negative. Shocks & struts are not absolutely necessary but at least rear shocks should be done as the rear seems to have lots of movement which a performance shock could help. Front seem pretty much in control with stock struts. While you have it apart take the top strut bearing apart and add more grease. Don't loose the ball bearings. Don't forget to transfer the rubber insulator on the lower part of the front coils from the stock coils to the Eibach springs. Using the insulators will prevent squeaking and so forth.

I would advise a 1" to 1-1/2" max drop for street driving. Too low is a real PITA after a while.

trey929

good write up! So your saying your pretty happy with the eibach pro kit? Also the drop is between 1 inch and 1-1/2?
thanks

ren274u

how do you measure the rear? to make sure its center?

RPM

Drop a plumb line from the top of the wheel well opening and measure across from the string to the the top of the rim. Do the exact same on the other side of the car. If you are within 1/8" you are good to go.

johney5

I have the eibach prokit on my 05 GT...it is as low as I would want to go.
The ride is much rougher...be prepared if you are driving on a highway to really jump if there is a bit of a dip. And if you hit a rock on a curve, your car might hop a bit. Forget driving down Divisidaro street in San Fran...(like Steeve Mqueen in Bullet), the car would bottom out totally.

However the car really does handle more like a go-kart, and feels more glued to the ground.
You do not, I repeat, do not need an adjustable camber kit. And you do not need an adjustable panhard bar. My car lined up perfectly to factory specs. after I loweered it.

I have ordered the Tokiko D specs and I am hoping this will dampen the rough ride. I'll update.

At the moment I'm wondering if I should have gone with the Steeda springs, only because they lower the car slighty less than the eibachs. I cannot stand the sound of my car bottoming out.

stang9325

Certain people needed the APB and camber kit, and some didn't. No way to know for certain. You may or may not need it. If your decision is a financially tight one, I would figure on the cost of the two just to be safe.

BrookShadow_RC

In a past life, I worked for a Mustang shop in Ft Worth. We did suspensions and motors and such on the Fox body Mustangs. So I can tell you that this depends on what your end-state goal is for your car. Now I am about to begin testing suspension parts on my own 05 GT to see which combinations work best.

That being said, I can offer this. You do not need anything to go with your springs. This will lower your car, and yes you will lose some ride quality. If ride quality is that important, then the Tokiko Ds seem to be the item of choice for this issue. The panhard bar, for me, is still up in the air. I have read close to 50-50 as to if it is needed and why. This is where my own testing will come in.

Caster camber plates are not needed for gerneral street use. But if you are going to visit a local driving club or autocross event, then they are definitely needed. As for camber settings, I have always run at least -1 degree with no noticeable tirewear. Some of the cars we built back then ran -2 on the street and had no ill effects.

I hope this helps. Again, alot of this is based on my experiance with the older Fox cars and not these new ones. But, the experience should translate well.