Drag racing / burnout
02-08-2006, 10:45 PM
#22
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,235
RE: Drag racing / burnout
ORIGINAL: Driver72
Well in the Southern Cal tracks you are free to drive into the water box
with street tires.
Most RWD cars drive around the box, then back into it and spin.
And contrary to what you and others have said, heating them up a bit
DOES give better times.
I've on numerous occasions not only have tried it myself with my
G35, but have seen and spoken to many who've produced
better times after a little burnout to heat up the rears.
In my Legacy GT, it doesn't matter since it's AWD.
And getting drag slicks is like using Nitrous, it's cheating in
a way.
Most go to the track to see what they're car is doing in everyday
driving set up.
There's not really a lot of point to go to the track, put on DR's remove
spare, jack, rear seats, etc etc and get a time, then put all those
things back in the car, only to brag up the time you got at the track.
Anybody could strip a car down to the bare bones to get the best times, but
again, 95% of the people at the track want to know what their car can do
as they drive it on the street!
Well in the Southern Cal tracks you are free to drive into the water box
with street tires.
Most RWD cars drive around the box, then back into it and spin.
And contrary to what you and others have said, heating them up a bit
DOES give better times.
I've on numerous occasions not only have tried it myself with my
G35, but have seen and spoken to many who've produced
better times after a little burnout to heat up the rears.
In my Legacy GT, it doesn't matter since it's AWD.
And getting drag slicks is like using Nitrous, it's cheating in
a way.
Most go to the track to see what they're car is doing in everyday
driving set up.
There's not really a lot of point to go to the track, put on DR's remove
spare, jack, rear seats, etc etc and get a time, then put all those
things back in the car, only to brag up the time you got at the track.
Anybody could strip a car down to the bare bones to get the best times, but
again, 95% of the people at the track want to know what their car can do
as they drive it on the street!
02-08-2006, 10:48 PM
#23
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,235
RE: Drag racing / burnout
ORIGINAL: chevykiller
Okay guys, mostly good advice - here's the skinny on launching...
1. Line locks DO NOT work with these new mustangs (not yet anyway) not even the pros are using them cause there is a torque nanny that will put your computer into failsafe once you hit around 6K rpm even with T/C off.
2. Water is your ENEMY with street tires. DO NOT go in the water box. Don't back into it, don't sit in it, don't use it! When they call you forward, drive around it and then park in front. Give the stager a wave 'no no' and he'll know exactly what you are doing.
3. You do want to shake your tires loose (clean them off) and you also want to keep cool. Here's the best method for streets....
After you park in FRONT of the water box, put your car in second gear. Rev the rpm up to about 4K with your heel on the brake and your toes on the gas. Pop the clutch and slowly release your heal pressure off the brake. (this is a basic power brake) you will heat up your tires and shake them loose nicely in about 3-4 seconds. Do not rev over 5500 rpm. If you do and you car goes into failsafe, just turn off the car and restart it and it will clear immediately. always remember - T/C OFF!!
Keeping cool is also a big help with lower et's. Try only turning your engine on when you have to move and when you're actually ready to race.
EDIT - Also don't let 1/2 your tire pressure out - you're defeating the launch with drag on streets. Consensus has it that 22-28 psi seems to work the best. (I don't use streets so don't know personally but those are the numbers I'm hearing at the track)
Okay guys, mostly good advice - here's the skinny on launching...
1. Line locks DO NOT work with these new mustangs (not yet anyway) not even the pros are using them cause there is a torque nanny that will put your computer into failsafe once you hit around 6K rpm even with T/C off.
2. Water is your ENEMY with street tires. DO NOT go in the water box. Don't back into it, don't sit in it, don't use it! When they call you forward, drive around it and then park in front. Give the stager a wave 'no no' and he'll know exactly what you are doing.
3. You do want to shake your tires loose (clean them off) and you also want to keep cool. Here's the best method for streets....
After you park in FRONT of the water box, put your car in second gear. Rev the rpm up to about 4K with your heel on the brake and your toes on the gas. Pop the clutch and slowly release your heal pressure off the brake. (this is a basic power brake) you will heat up your tires and shake them loose nicely in about 3-4 seconds. Do not rev over 5500 rpm. If you do and you car goes into failsafe, just turn off the car and restart it and it will clear immediately. always remember - T/C OFF!!
Keeping cool is also a big help with lower et's. Try only turning your engine on when you have to move and when you're actually ready to race.
EDIT - Also don't let 1/2 your tire pressure out - you're defeating the launch with drag on streets. Consensus has it that 22-28 psi seems to work the best. (I don't use streets so don't know personally but those are the numbers I'm hearing at the track)
02-09-2006, 03:44 AM
#24
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 64
RE: Drag racing / burnout
Im an owner of a track down here in Texas and I take my mustang out to the track almost everyday. People should now that when you do a long burn out on regular street tires, it causes them to heat up and the air preasure go up. This means that when you get off the line atthe tree, your tires get harder and tend to slip more. All you need to do is clean the tire and lower the preasure a bit. Two spins are enough. If the track is preped up with VHT then that should do the trick. I give my engine anbout 2500 RPM at the light and the traction is incredible on this stock perillis.
02-09-2006, 12:24 PM
#25
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location:
Posts: 219
RE: Drag racing / burnout
I don't do the heel toe. I drop the clutch in first then stabilize the rpms while holding the break with my left foot. Let off break and push in clutch. The car doesn't move much, but I'm quick like a rabbit. I think keeping the rear from moving left and right is more difficult than smoking the tires.
I tried second gear and the clutch didn't engage all the way...smoked clutch smell is the worst.
I tried second gear and the clutch didn't engage all the way...smoked clutch smell is the worst.
02-11-2006, 06:16 PM
#26
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,585
RE: Drag racing / burnout
ORIGINAL: viking396
Mostly I agree however there is no way in hell I'm going to use 2nd gear with 3.55's..... One thing I'm wondering about, these suckers are aluminum engined, my last car had an aluminum engine and ran best at normal engine temp (I mean it was 2 to 3 tenths faster warmed up, drove me nuts!) unlike my 5 liter Mustang which loved it ice cold of course.
ORIGINAL: chevykiller
Okay guys, mostly good advice - here's the skinny on launching...
1. Line locks DO NOT work with these new mustangs (not yet anyway) not even the pros are using them cause there is a torque nanny that will put your computer into failsafe once you hit around 6K rpm even with T/C off.
2. Water is your ENEMY with street tires. DO NOT go in the water box. Don't back into it, don't sit in it, don't use it! When they call you forward, drive around it and then park in front. Give the stager a wave 'no no' and he'll know exactly what you are doing.
3. You do want to shake your tires loose (clean them off) and you also want to keep cool. Here's the best method for streets....
After you park in FRONT of the water box, put your car in second gear. Rev the rpm up to about 4K with your heel on the brake and your toes on the gas. Pop the clutch and slowly release your heal pressure off the brake. (this is a basic power brake) you will heat up your tires and shake them loose nicely in about 3-4 seconds. Do not rev over 5500 rpm. If you do and you car goes into failsafe, just turn off the car and restart it and it will clear immediately. always remember - T/C OFF!!
Keeping cool is also a big help with lower et's. Try only turning your engine on when you have to move and when you're actually ready to race.
EDIT - Also don't let 1/2 your tire pressure out - you're defeating the launch with drag on streets. Consensus has it that 22-28 psi seems to work the best. (I don't use streets so don't know personally but those are the numbers I'm hearing at the track)
Okay guys, mostly good advice - here's the skinny on launching...
1. Line locks DO NOT work with these new mustangs (not yet anyway) not even the pros are using them cause there is a torque nanny that will put your computer into failsafe once you hit around 6K rpm even with T/C off.
2. Water is your ENEMY with street tires. DO NOT go in the water box. Don't back into it, don't sit in it, don't use it! When they call you forward, drive around it and then park in front. Give the stager a wave 'no no' and he'll know exactly what you are doing.
3. You do want to shake your tires loose (clean them off) and you also want to keep cool. Here's the best method for streets....
After you park in FRONT of the water box, put your car in second gear. Rev the rpm up to about 4K with your heel on the brake and your toes on the gas. Pop the clutch and slowly release your heal pressure off the brake. (this is a basic power brake) you will heat up your tires and shake them loose nicely in about 3-4 seconds. Do not rev over 5500 rpm. If you do and you car goes into failsafe, just turn off the car and restart it and it will clear immediately. always remember - T/C OFF!!
Keeping cool is also a big help with lower et's. Try only turning your engine on when you have to move and when you're actually ready to race.
EDIT - Also don't let 1/2 your tire pressure out - you're defeating the launch with drag on streets. Consensus has it that 22-28 psi seems to work the best. (I don't use streets so don't know personally but those are the numbers I'm hearing at the track)
EDIT: and yeah, keeping cold is mainly for s/c & turbo application with these blocks. I agree that without a power adder, I think the cars run better at regular temp.
02-11-2006, 06:28 PM
#27
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: TX, stationed in Bremerton, WA
Posts: 307
RE: Drag racing / burnout
Thanks for all the advice, I'm going to the track tomorrow, to see what I'm doing on the street. Its the "old salts" that look out for us younger guys!!!
JC
JC
02-11-2006, 07:01 PM
#28
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,225
RE: Drag racing / burnout
ORIGINAL: chevykiller
1. Line locks DO NOT work with these new mustangs (not yet anyway) not even the pros are using them cause there is a torque nanny that will put your computer into failsafe once you hit around 6K rpm even with T/C off.
1. Line locks DO NOT work with these new mustangs (not yet anyway) not even the pros are using them cause there is a torque nanny that will put your computer into failsafe once you hit around 6K rpm even with T/C off.
02-11-2006, 07:13 PM
#29
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,585
RE: Drag racing / burnout
ORIGINAL: hawgman
Actually there are a couple of people on TMS ( Derek, George, Dustin, & Dave to name a few ) that are using them.
ORIGINAL: chevykiller
1. Line locks DO NOT work with these new mustangs (not yet anyway) not even the pros are using them cause there is a torque nanny that will put your computer into failsafe once you hit around 6K rpm even with T/C off.
1. Line locks DO NOT work with these new mustangs (not yet anyway) not even the pros are using them cause there is a torque nanny that will put your computer into failsafe once you hit around 6K rpm even with T/C off.
The line locks work but as soon as your car hits 5800 rpm, the wrench light comes on and the car goes into failsafe. I personally couldn't get a good burnout in low rpm and it wasn't worth it. JPC, MRI, JDM, Hurst, and ST are all working on a good line lock system for our cars so I'm sure we'll see some good ones soon.
02-11-2006, 07:24 PM
#30
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 3,235
RE: Drag racing / burnout
ORIGINAL: chevykiller
I should have said I have 4.10 gears. Thus the 2nd gear launch for me. With stock gears, you should easily be able to get your speedo up in 1st gear. Tire pressure increases with heat in ALL tires - street, drag, slick, etc. so bear that in mind. The main point is on street tires, you don't have to do a big burnout and you're really defeating yourself by trying it. If you do a burnout in the water on streets, then please try to dry hop the car before you get to the line to help cut down bringing water to the line. Nothing worse than a moron dragging water up front.
EDIT: and yeah, keeping cold is mainly for s/c & turbo application with these blocks. I agree that without a power adder, I think the cars run better at regular temp.
ORIGINAL: viking396
Mostly I agree however there is no way in hell I'm going to use 2nd gear with 3.55's..... One thing I'm wondering about, these suckers are aluminum engined, my last car had an aluminum engine and ran best at normal engine temp (I mean it was 2 to 3 tenths faster warmed up, drove me nuts!) unlike my 5 liter Mustang which loved it ice cold of course.
ORIGINAL: chevykiller
Okay guys, mostly good advice - here's the skinny on launching...
1. Line locks DO NOT work with these new mustangs (not yet anyway) not even the pros are using them cause there is a torque nanny that will put your computer into failsafe once you hit around 6K rpm even with T/C off.
2. Water is your ENEMY with street tires. DO NOT go in the water box. Don't back into it, don't sit in it, don't use it! When they call you forward, drive around it and then park in front. Give the stager a wave 'no no' and he'll know exactly what you are doing.
3. You do want to shake your tires loose (clean them off) and you also want to keep cool. Here's the best method for streets....
After you park in FRONT of the water box, put your car in second gear. Rev the rpm up to about 4K with your heel on the brake and your toes on the gas. Pop the clutch and slowly release your heal pressure off the brake. (this is a basic power brake) you will heat up your tires and shake them loose nicely in about 3-4 seconds. Do not rev over 5500 rpm. If you do and you car goes into failsafe, just turn off the car and restart it and it will clear immediately. always remember - T/C OFF!!
Keeping cool is also a big help with lower et's. Try only turning your engine on when you have to move and when you're actually ready to race.
EDIT - Also don't let 1/2 your tire pressure out - you're defeating the launch with drag on streets. Consensus has it that 22-28 psi seems to work the best. (I don't use streets so don't know personally but those are the numbers I'm hearing at the track)
Okay guys, mostly good advice - here's the skinny on launching...
1. Line locks DO NOT work with these new mustangs (not yet anyway) not even the pros are using them cause there is a torque nanny that will put your computer into failsafe once you hit around 6K rpm even with T/C off.
2. Water is your ENEMY with street tires. DO NOT go in the water box. Don't back into it, don't sit in it, don't use it! When they call you forward, drive around it and then park in front. Give the stager a wave 'no no' and he'll know exactly what you are doing.
3. You do want to shake your tires loose (clean them off) and you also want to keep cool. Here's the best method for streets....
After you park in FRONT of the water box, put your car in second gear. Rev the rpm up to about 4K with your heel on the brake and your toes on the gas. Pop the clutch and slowly release your heal pressure off the brake. (this is a basic power brake) you will heat up your tires and shake them loose nicely in about 3-4 seconds. Do not rev over 5500 rpm. If you do and you car goes into failsafe, just turn off the car and restart it and it will clear immediately. always remember - T/C OFF!!
Keeping cool is also a big help with lower et's. Try only turning your engine on when you have to move and when you're actually ready to race.
EDIT - Also don't let 1/2 your tire pressure out - you're defeating the launch with drag on streets. Consensus has it that 22-28 psi seems to work the best. (I don't use streets so don't know personally but those are the numbers I'm hearing at the track)
EDIT: and yeah, keeping cold is mainly for s/c & turbo application with these blocks. I agree that without a power adder, I think the cars run better at regular temp.
