Self-Made Sequential Taillights
#11
I was going to do a write-up, but I used programming software to write the code and a device programmer to put it on the chip. Unless you have access to these (I use them at work), they would far outweigh the cost of just buying the sequential taillights set from somewhere else.
#14
You should think about it! Cut back on your lunch about 10 minutes everyday to work on a set and you could easily add a couple hundred dollars to your monthly income... Im sure there would be quite a few guys on the forum willing to pay 50,60-70 bucks if they could just slice them in and go!
#18
I installed a set of these made by MustangTaillightSequencers.Com any only paid about $50. They are on Ebay. My complaint was that the flashed too fast and you really had to look at the tail light to tell what it was doing. The problem lied in both the cars turn signal flasher relay and the units I bought. After some testing the fix was easy and cheap. I bought a new flasher relay from the parts store and popped off the cover. There is a single capacitor that controls the speed of the flash. Typically the value is 4.7uf. With a solder wand I pulled that capacitor and installed a 6.8uf which you can order online or try radio shack. I gutted an old VCR. This simple mod slowed down the flashing to a more desirable speed.
Now I pulled the covers off my Sequencer Units to find 2 capacitors on each. Both had .47uf values. I increased all of them to a 1uf. This slowed down the sequencing rate down just enough to really get the effect. This was an easy fix and the only part to watch is making sure that when you resolder the caps back on the board that the (-) neg side is soldered the same way as the one you pulled off.
Now I pulled the covers off my Sequencer Units to find 2 capacitors on each. Both had .47uf values. I increased all of them to a 1uf. This slowed down the sequencing rate down just enough to really get the effect. This was an easy fix and the only part to watch is making sure that when you resolder the caps back on the board that the (-) neg side is soldered the same way as the one you pulled off.
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11-22-2004 10:16 AM