Not sure about alluminum blocks
#1
Not sure about alluminum blocks
Hi.
I am in the move to buy a 2003 Match one with only 22000 miles. (one owner)
automatic. I made a drive test and feels very nice. ( I had own 2000gt std and 2002 gt std. But I did like this automatic. I only hear a little tic,tic,tic left motor side(like from the block) But the car looks new and feels better from a Sunday driver. Some guys has told me to be aware of alluminum blocks. So I like the car but not sure if it is a good buy. Any comments?
I am in the move to buy a 2003 Match one with only 22000 miles. (one owner)
automatic. I made a drive test and feels very nice. ( I had own 2000gt std and 2002 gt std. But I did like this automatic. I only hear a little tic,tic,tic left motor side(like from the block) But the car looks new and feels better from a Sunday driver. Some guys has told me to be aware of alluminum blocks. So I like the car but not sure if it is a good buy. Any comments?
#2
yeah I have a comment....if the price is right, buy it, you'll be glad you did. The Mach blocks, for an aluminum block, are STRONG. They've been proven to hold montrous levels of power, w/ forged internals ofcourse. 5w30 synthetic, instead of 5w20, will quiet the motor down w/ no change in wear protection.
#3
The 4.6L aluminum block can be good to 100,000 to 150,000 miles easy in most cases.
Your results might vary, but they hold up well.
1993–1998 Lincoln Mark VIII, 280 hp (209 kW) and 285 lb·ft (386 N·m)
1995–1998 Lincoln Continental, 260 hp (194 kW) and 265 lb·ft (359 N·m)
1996–1998 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra, 305 hp (227 kW) and 300 lb·ft (407 N·m)
1997–1999 Panoz AIV Roadster, 305 hp (227 kW) and 300 lb-ft (407 N-m)
1995–1998 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC, 290 hp (216 kW) and 295 lb·ft (400 N·m)
1997–1999 Marcos Mantis GT, 320 hp (239 kW) and 317 lb·ft (430 N·m)
1999–2002 Lincoln Continental, 275 hp (205 kW) and 275 lb·ft (373 N·m)
1999/2001 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra, 320 hp (239 kW) and 317 lb·ft (430 N·m)
2000–2001 Qvale Mangusta, 320 hp (239 kW) and 317 lb·ft (430 N·m)
2003–2005 MG X-Power SV, 320 hp (239 kW) and 317 lb·ft (430 N·m)
2000–2008 Panoz Esperante, 320 hp (239 kW) and 320 lb·ft (434 N·m) [7]
2003 Ford Mustang Mach 1, 305 hp (227 kW) and 320 lb·ft (434 N·m)
2004 Ford Mustang Mach 1, 305 hp (227 kW) and 320 lb·ft (434 N·m) [8]
2003–2004 Mercury Marauder, 302 hp (225 kW) and 318 lb·ft (431 N·m)
2003–2005 Lincoln Aviator, 302 hp (225 kW) and 318 lb·ft (431 N·m)
Your results might vary, but they hold up well.
1993–1998 Lincoln Mark VIII, 280 hp (209 kW) and 285 lb·ft (386 N·m)
1995–1998 Lincoln Continental, 260 hp (194 kW) and 265 lb·ft (359 N·m)
1996–1998 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra, 305 hp (227 kW) and 300 lb·ft (407 N·m)
1997–1999 Panoz AIV Roadster, 305 hp (227 kW) and 300 lb-ft (407 N-m)
1995–1998 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC, 290 hp (216 kW) and 295 lb·ft (400 N·m)
1997–1999 Marcos Mantis GT, 320 hp (239 kW) and 317 lb·ft (430 N·m)
1999–2002 Lincoln Continental, 275 hp (205 kW) and 275 lb·ft (373 N·m)
1999/2001 Ford Mustang SVT Cobra, 320 hp (239 kW) and 317 lb·ft (430 N·m)
2000–2001 Qvale Mangusta, 320 hp (239 kW) and 317 lb·ft (430 N·m)
2003–2005 MG X-Power SV, 320 hp (239 kW) and 317 lb·ft (430 N·m)
2000–2008 Panoz Esperante, 320 hp (239 kW) and 320 lb·ft (434 N·m) [7]
2003 Ford Mustang Mach 1, 305 hp (227 kW) and 320 lb·ft (434 N·m)
2004 Ford Mustang Mach 1, 305 hp (227 kW) and 320 lb·ft (434 N·m) [8]
2003–2004 Mercury Marauder, 302 hp (225 kW) and 318 lb·ft (431 N·m)
2003–2005 Lincoln Aviator, 302 hp (225 kW) and 318 lb·ft (431 N·m)
#4
not sure about alluminum blocks
Well the prices for any car here in PR are couple of thousands over the states, so for this Dark shadow gray match 1 2003 the owner was asking $16500 and we get to $15000. I am in the thinking process between this car and a 2011 v6 std what is in $26995. I know this match 1 is a special car but still I need some help in decision making here. Tell me someting.
#5
That's a very fair price. Go with the Mach. The 2011 is a very common car. With the Mach you'll have a high performance mustang and something you and other people don't see all over the place every day.
#6
Go with the Mach, you will not regret it. Save that $10k and stick with the Mach 1. The Mach will still get 25+ mpg and will last you a lifetime if you service it on time like you're supposed to. The 2011 V6 is a good car as well, but it really doesn't compare to the Mach in performance or price... or fun factor as far as that goes. I've had 3 Machs so far and have beat the hell out of all of them. None them ever left me stranded on the side of the road, or had ANY mechanical issues for that matter. Get that Mach!! Its a good price for the miles.
#7
Hi. Here I am again questioning about match 1s. I have not bought it yet. Fortunatelly the owner still have it. question now is automatic v.s standard. This one is like i said automatic 22000 miles. I have own 3 other gts like i said , all std. i am afraid of getting bored after I drive this automatic few months. Other than fun of the std, I will like to know the reliability of the automatic( what type of trans it is because it feels strong when i tested) Second question is Match 1 emblems. as i know the only emblem other than the black stripes is at the trunk replacing GT for match 1. On the fender only the pony. ( This one has a Match 1 emblem just above the pony that do not look good for me and I am not sure if it was placed by the owner. He said he bought it new like that.
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