Do I put anything on the oil pan gasket?
04-23-2010, 07:41 PM
#1
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Do I put anything on the oil pan gasket?
Do I put anything on the oil pan gasket? I am buying the cheap cork rubber multi piece one from Auto Zone if that makes a difference. Do I rub engine oil on it do I soak it in motor oil? This is going on an old pan and old block if that helps.
04-25-2010, 10:16 AM
#2
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update for the silent majority
thank you everyone who read my post, I ended up using the magical WD-40 to clean my oil pan and a razor blade to scrape up the 20 year old gasket, there was a nice inch or so of sludge but the oil looked good otherwise, no water in it, no metal shavings either
because I was mounting the pan from underneath, on one side of the pan I put some motor oil on my finger and rubbed it on the gasket and the block to get it to stick but it did not, the other side of the pan went on dry (this is going to be an experiment to see if it leaks or not) and like my friend Bob the gear head used to say if it leaks oil that means there's oil in her, or PLS, Pavement Lubrication System
as far as torquing the oil pan bolts, my Haynes manual says 5/16 inch to 12 ft lbs, and 1/4 inch to 8 ft lbs, I don't know what they are smoking as my bolts were 7/16 on the sides, and two 1/2 inch each on front and back, so I torqued all of them to 12 ft lbs, and got a feeling that may have been too tight, so I'm filing this under lessoned learned
found the part number on my oil pan D5ZE-6675-AB it's got the magical "Z" for Mustang in it, so now I feel like I belong here, the engine mounts have "Zs" in them too, here's some pics of the before and after shots
thank you everyone who read my post, I ended up using the magical WD-40 to clean my oil pan and a razor blade to scrape up the 20 year old gasket, there was a nice inch or so of sludge but the oil looked good otherwise, no water in it, no metal shavings either
because I was mounting the pan from underneath, on one side of the pan I put some motor oil on my finger and rubbed it on the gasket and the block to get it to stick but it did not, the other side of the pan went on dry (this is going to be an experiment to see if it leaks or not) and like my friend Bob the gear head used to say if it leaks oil that means there's oil in her, or PLS, Pavement Lubrication System
as far as torquing the oil pan bolts, my Haynes manual says 5/16 inch to 12 ft lbs, and 1/4 inch to 8 ft lbs, I don't know what they are smoking as my bolts were 7/16 on the sides, and two 1/2 inch each on front and back, so I torqued all of them to 12 ft lbs, and got a feeling that may have been too tight, so I'm filing this under lessoned learned
found the part number on my oil pan D5ZE-6675-AB it's got the magical "Z" for Mustang in it, so now I feel like I belong here, the engine mounts have "Zs" in them too, here's some pics of the before and after shots
04-25-2010, 02:01 PM
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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1/4" bolts use a 7/16" wrench. 5/16" bolts use a 1/2" wrench. You over torqued the bolts; which is the most common cause of a leak. The gaskets gets squished out of place, especially if you've lubed with motor oil.
Here's some tips for the next time you do this job:
The pan flange looks pretty beat up. Use a straght edge, pliers, and a hammer to get it nice and straight. Over time, the bolt hole get dimpled in the wrong direction. Put a piece of wood on the underside of the flange, and put the round head of a ball pean hammer over the bolt hole. Use another hammer and tap it until the bolt hole dimples the other way.
Clean block and pan surfaces reall well. Make sure they're completely dry and oil free. One place to pay particular attention to is the square holes in the corners of the front cover and rear cap.
I prefer the one piece gaskets with the steel rings around the bolt holes. They fit and seal well, and you can't overtorque them. If you look at the gasket around the round part, you'll see 4 little tabs. These tabs fit down into the square holes in the front cover and rear cap. The tabs are usually too big, and cause the gasket to bunch up. Use a pair of diagonal wire cutters and trim about 1-2mm off the end, and then bevel the sides about 1mm.
Get a couple of 1/4" x 1" bolts. Cut the heads off, and cut a screwdriver slot into the end. Screw them into the block, one on each side of the pan rail, about in the middle. These will guide the pan in place and hold it there while you get a couple of bolts started.
Place a thin smear of silicone selanat along the block surfaces. Place a little extra dab in the corners, and at the junction of the front cover and block. Just a little dab. If you over do it, it will spooge into the pan and clog the oil pump pick up. Let is sit for 10-15 minutes, until it's starting to dry a little and get sticky. It will act like glue and hold the gasket in place while you get the pan up there.
Gently slide the pan in place over the guide studs. Be carefull not to displace the gasket. Install and hand tighten the pan bolts in a criss cross patter, like an intake manifold. Otherwise the pan will be cocked on the bklock, and it will leak. Tighten the bolts in 2-3 stages, using that criss cross pattern. I use a little dab of blue lock tite on the pan (and valve covers) to keep them from coming loose.
Torque to specs. Let it sit overnight so the silicone will cure correctly.
Here's some tips for the next time you do this job:
The pan flange looks pretty beat up. Use a straght edge, pliers, and a hammer to get it nice and straight. Over time, the bolt hole get dimpled in the wrong direction. Put a piece of wood on the underside of the flange, and put the round head of a ball pean hammer over the bolt hole. Use another hammer and tap it until the bolt hole dimples the other way.
Clean block and pan surfaces reall well. Make sure they're completely dry and oil free. One place to pay particular attention to is the square holes in the corners of the front cover and rear cap.
I prefer the one piece gaskets with the steel rings around the bolt holes. They fit and seal well, and you can't overtorque them. If you look at the gasket around the round part, you'll see 4 little tabs. These tabs fit down into the square holes in the front cover and rear cap. The tabs are usually too big, and cause the gasket to bunch up. Use a pair of diagonal wire cutters and trim about 1-2mm off the end, and then bevel the sides about 1mm.
Get a couple of 1/4" x 1" bolts. Cut the heads off, and cut a screwdriver slot into the end. Screw them into the block, one on each side of the pan rail, about in the middle. These will guide the pan in place and hold it there while you get a couple of bolts started.
Place a thin smear of silicone selanat along the block surfaces. Place a little extra dab in the corners, and at the junction of the front cover and block. Just a little dab. If you over do it, it will spooge into the pan and clog the oil pump pick up. Let is sit for 10-15 minutes, until it's starting to dry a little and get sticky. It will act like glue and hold the gasket in place while you get the pan up there.
Gently slide the pan in place over the guide studs. Be carefull not to displace the gasket. Install and hand tighten the pan bolts in a criss cross patter, like an intake manifold. Otherwise the pan will be cocked on the bklock, and it will leak. Tighten the bolts in 2-3 stages, using that criss cross pattern. I use a little dab of blue lock tite on the pan (and valve covers) to keep them from coming loose.
Torque to specs. Let it sit overnight so the silicone will cure correctly.
Last edited by .boB; 04-25-2010 at 02:04 PM.
04-25-2010, 05:41 PM
#4
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: California
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wow
got damn .boB that's one hell of a post, thank you so much, I vote to make your reply a sticky post for all to see, and or a How To Article, once again thank you for taking the time to put all that up on the screen much appreciated
04-26-2010, 09:08 AM
#5
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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You're welcome.
This does come up quite a bit, so mybe a sticky would help. If you used the above post, some one would have to go through and correct all my typo's. I can speak and spell, but I can't type worth a darn.
This does come up quite a bit, so mybe a sticky would help. If you used the above post, some one would have to go through and correct all my typo's. I can speak and spell, but I can't type worth a darn.
