'86 Mustang GT
#1
'86 Mustang GT
I need to know why my 1986 Mustang GT has 85 mph on the dash and seriously does not go over 85. Well, it does, but the engine noise is terribly loud and the engine sounds like its whining. I'm thinking its the transmission. I guess its stock, 5 speed manual. Once I get near 2000 rpm, its time to switch because the engine sounds like its over reving. I spoke to someone about it and they said I may have a 'limiter' on the car because he knew someone who's parents put a 'limiter' on his mustang. If you know what the problem is and how to solve it, please reply. Is this common in 86 mustangs?
#3
RE: '86 Mustang GT
Yeah, thats NOT normal. No help on what the problem may be, but that car was mean in its day. You should be able to rev the gears well over 4000, or close to 5000 if my memory serves me correctly. I had an 82 Capri RS and an 85 GT and both engines were pretty much identical - the 85 speedo was a joke because you could get there fast. If that engine is running right you be able to peg that hit about 135-140mph - not that its the smart thing to do
#5
RE: '86 Mustang GT
There could be any number of problems. Remember, this is a fuel injected car not carbureted. There are sensors and such. Also, that year was recalled for the throttle position sensor and the catalytic converters as well as the fuel rails. I will post a more in-depth explanation when I get a chance. I e-mailed you a request to send me your e-mail address so we can discuss this further.
-Robert
-Robert
#6
RE: '86 Mustang GT
ORIGINAL: MrBonesRipper
you may want to check your timing i have an 86 capri and the same thing was going on with it and it ended up being the timing be 11 degrees advanced
you may want to check your timing i have an 86 capri and the same thing was going on with it and it ended up being the timing be 11 degrees advanced
Hey there, I have a '86 Capri, 5.0 5speed...still drive it every now and then......gonna keep her.
175k miles, Silver Grey/ owned since 1990. Bought in New Braunfels Texas for 6 grand. Love the style.
Lots of fun......
She still runs real well at high speed.....for a 20 year automobile.
later,
#8
RE: '86 Mustang GT
Like anything else, start simple and work your way up. First of
all, look at the throttle. Is it opening all the way? You would be surprised how
many times the answer is "no". Assuming the engine is in good mechanical
condition (i.e. no bent pushrods or wiped out timing chain), proceed as follows.
Check the throttle. Then check the ignition for a carbon streaked cap, broken rotor
or faulty ignition wires (arcing, which can be seen at night). Check the coil. Check
the air filter. Check the compression. If it is low, decarbonizing may be in order.
That engine used "low tension" piston rings to reduce drag. Does the car
have a catalytic converter? If it is the original one, it was recalled by Ford for
getting plugged up and reducing performance, also indicated by the engine getting
hot. Also, the throttle position sensor was recalled because it allowed the engine
to fluctuate in rpm at idle more than 200 rpm. Check with the dealer. With your
VIN, he should have a record if the recall proceedures were done. Also, the fuel
lines were recalled to have safety clips installed to prevent the remote possibility
of the fuel lines separating. The fuel injection relies on sensors which could be
at fault. These are the O2, MAP (manifold absolute pressure), throttle position
sensor and engine temperature sensor. All of these sensors help the computer to
determine things like fuel mixture and ignition timing. The fuel mixture is changed
by varying the pulse width of the fuel injector. The longer the width, the more
the fuel. When changing sensors, you will probably need to know the calibration
code. It is located on the valve cover. If you can't find it, the dealer should
be able to determine it by your VIN. If not, one of the more common codes is 621ARO.
Also, check the fuel pressure and the condition of the injectors. A faulty fuel
pressure regulator or even a badly clogged fuel filter or faulty pump could wreak
havoc on the system. A bad injector will allow a cylinder or two to drag, supplying
no power. Also, make sure the fuel tank is venting properly. The distributor is
aligned with an index mark on the block and the distributor body. This was the position
at the factory and supplies the base timing for the computer to work from. Remember,
the computer is making the decisions on timing based on all of those sensors. If
timing is suspect, check it. I see some people mention the figure 11 degrees. I
wonder how this came about? I am the original owner of my '86 and have never had
the need to touch the distributor. Make sure the index mark is aligned and check
the timing from there. It should be fine.
With all of the complications of electronically controlled engines, people tend
to lose sight of the basics: spark, compression, fuel. My guess is it's somewhere
in the fuel system. I say that because it is usually the most neglected of the systems.
Good luck, and let me know what you find.
all, look at the throttle. Is it opening all the way? You would be surprised how
many times the answer is "no". Assuming the engine is in good mechanical
condition (i.e. no bent pushrods or wiped out timing chain), proceed as follows.
Check the throttle. Then check the ignition for a carbon streaked cap, broken rotor
or faulty ignition wires (arcing, which can be seen at night). Check the coil. Check
the air filter. Check the compression. If it is low, decarbonizing may be in order.
That engine used "low tension" piston rings to reduce drag. Does the car
have a catalytic converter? If it is the original one, it was recalled by Ford for
getting plugged up and reducing performance, also indicated by the engine getting
hot. Also, the throttle position sensor was recalled because it allowed the engine
to fluctuate in rpm at idle more than 200 rpm. Check with the dealer. With your
VIN, he should have a record if the recall proceedures were done. Also, the fuel
lines were recalled to have safety clips installed to prevent the remote possibility
of the fuel lines separating. The fuel injection relies on sensors which could be
at fault. These are the O2, MAP (manifold absolute pressure), throttle position
sensor and engine temperature sensor. All of these sensors help the computer to
determine things like fuel mixture and ignition timing. The fuel mixture is changed
by varying the pulse width of the fuel injector. The longer the width, the more
the fuel. When changing sensors, you will probably need to know the calibration
code. It is located on the valve cover. If you can't find it, the dealer should
be able to determine it by your VIN. If not, one of the more common codes is 621ARO.
Also, check the fuel pressure and the condition of the injectors. A faulty fuel
pressure regulator or even a badly clogged fuel filter or faulty pump could wreak
havoc on the system. A bad injector will allow a cylinder or two to drag, supplying
no power. Also, make sure the fuel tank is venting properly. The distributor is
aligned with an index mark on the block and the distributor body. This was the position
at the factory and supplies the base timing for the computer to work from. Remember,
the computer is making the decisions on timing based on all of those sensors. If
timing is suspect, check it. I see some people mention the figure 11 degrees. I
wonder how this came about? I am the original owner of my '86 and have never had
the need to touch the distributor. Make sure the index mark is aligned and check
the timing from there. It should be fine.
With all of the complications of electronically controlled engines, people tend
to lose sight of the basics: spark, compression, fuel. My guess is it's somewhere
in the fuel system. I say that because it is usually the most neglected of the systems.
Good luck, and let me know what you find.
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