timothybh

Thanks, I made some progress today. I may be driving a Kona Blue V6 Mustang Club of America with a ton of options this Monday. I agreed to the price, but oddly I come in tomorrow to sign and do paper work. So I didn't really sign myself into it yet, they were trying to figure out how to trade cars with a dealer and let me go.

Full details on the deal, or maybe not a deal, in this thread:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...t-worth-2.html

I may be able to technically back out since again, didn't sign anything besides the early on credit app.

OhEightGT

Sounds like you're getting closer! Normal dealer experiences vary from person to person. We all have different buying/negotiation methods, but if anything at all makes you uncomfortable about the place or if they are not interested in FULLY informing you on the vehicle you're desiring, they are a joke and you need to find another dealer. The dealer makes ALL the difference in a car purchase. I drove 3 hours (6 hours total!!) to get my baby earlier this week. Long trip but those guys were amazing and everything I was concerned about or wanted, was addressed and I left happy. My wife's car we got at a local place, and the whole experience was an absolute nightmare.

(and when you run across dealers that won't let you test drive a GT or V6, flat out walk. It's one thing and understandable for them to not let you take a Shelby for a spin. It's absolute nonsense for them to say no to a seriously interested buyer on a drive in a GT or ESPECIALLY a V6. Some dealers have their heads so far up their ***es it's ridiculous. First thing a person should ask for is a test drive and if they say no, they don't want your money bad enough. I won't even talk to them about a car until I am behind the wheel and on a test drive with them. Period.)

You seem a little apprehensive about it though! Before you do anything contractual, make 150% sure it's what you want to do. If you have any doubt at all, hold off Missing a deal that you can find again down the road is a lot better than getting obligated to 72 months when you are not sure. Not saying you are actually apprehensive or anything, just saying if you are, be careful and don't let anyone push you into a signature before you're ready and certain! They don't run the show! Be sure about what you want, be sure about what you're willing to pay and the details on financing, explore all your financing options, just go in confident and firm with what you need and want out of the deal. Too many people go in with a "kind of" idea, and end up upside down in a deal that they honestly would rather have not gotten into.

Anyway, not trying to spook you, just saying be sure it's what you want, and if you really feel like something is "odd" as you say, you can always buy the next Kona Blue beauty! But once you sign on one, that's it, you're done for quite a while. I almost let myself get pushed into a 2005 GT that wasn't EXACTLY what I want and was honestly overpriced by about 5k!! (they wouldn't talk even a hundred bucks down on the price!) Told them I'd come in the next day and get it, but over that night tossing and turning, the next morning I decided to let it go. 3 weeks later, I have an immaculate 2008 GT with EVERY option I wanted for almost 4k less than I was looking to spend.

Rambled a lot, but basically... Don't feel like it's the end of the road if you back out on this one or something isn't right for you. These cars are literally everywhere. You may have to wait days, weeks, or even a month or two to find what you want again, but you will. Just don't get stuck or make a deal you are even SLIGHTLY unsure of!

timothybh

Was hoping for guru like salesman that just walk you around the car, pop the hood, demonstrate the computer controlled features, the lighting, etc. During the test drive he didn't seem to know about the selectable assist steering levels choices. What happens if they don't carry brochures I guess.

Would of liked a guy like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgQ8Z...eature=related

That video keeps making me want to buy it again, lol.

I was just really nervous finally seeing hard numbers in front of me and on the spot to make a decision. Especially with the tactic where they try to get you to say you'd buy it if they are able to get a monthly fee that works to start off. So I asked for a pretty low monthly fee with a bit put down.

Little shocked at the first quote. The quote was with the car at full MSRP, so the monthly fee was way out of left field. What happened to all the talk of this dealer doing an invoice sale. I had to ask if that this was at invoice, he so no, and asked if I'd like to have it at invoice. Yes!!!. So luckily this time he came back with a nice printed paper showing side by side MSRP and Invoice for each option, including destination, regional add fee. They said it would have to be $300 over invoice for the costs of doing a swap.

I changed my trade-in plan at the last minute. So the numbers made me very apprehensive without the trade-in. I decided to not trade in my car, but sell it to my brother for $3k, who doesn't have the cash at the moment. So instead of $7k down, only $4k instead. At this point, every $1k down would take $20 off the payment. So I chose to add $1500 more for a total of $5.5k down, a $385 monthly payment. Still a bit high combined with 72 months. So I had to ease my mind remembering that I'll get atleast $100 a month from my brother to compensate, or until he pays it off in a lump sum. Again, didn't help seeing a larger perminant payment with that $2-$3k extra down.

I really do like the car, the color and optoins. Sadly, haven't seen a Kona Blue in person besides a different Ford vehicle with it, and dusty. I feel like I'd like it longer than the over used red candy with that you see everywhere. All the extras will help make the car feel more luxurious and high-end for the money, worth the extra $1800 or so. Really really glad it had the Mustang Club of America package, hard to find, always the other choice. It has the nice billet grill, the painted rims (didn't want chrome) and rear decklid trim panel. The side stripe on that package didn't thrill me, but not as bad on the darker blue compared to how it stood out on a red candy color.

So, I'm pretty sure about the car. The amount I was willing to pay for any car, not so sure. Though, didn't seem like the deal could get any better in the future.

Looking at the quote paper I got, it does mention "Total Holdback" at $917 ($1 off what TrueCar estimate). But again, I was told they won't see that holdback in a swap, so strange. The document also shows prices for Ford employees, dealer employees and partners, refered to as A&Z PLan, D Plan, and X PLan. So it doesn't feel like they were hiding anything, except the strange loss of holdback plus swap fee. And even fighting for that fee and some of the holdblack wouldn't put much of a dent to the payment. If they do get the holdback, I'd like to know, just to feel better that they get something out of this.

OhEightGT

That's how salesmen should ALWAYS be. I used to work at Reynolds Ford in Norman Oklahoma as a technician, and I can remember the sales staff every month or so having meetings and going over every car and feature. There is no excuse for a salesman or woman to ever NOT know every last detail of the car and it's options. A person is about to drop 20, 30, 40+k and you can't answer all their questions? Don't think so! But it seems these days more and more of them are getting to be kind of full of it, and expecting you to just melt at the sight of the car and have no questions and just hand over the money they ask for.

Anyway! Well, as long as you're sure you can afford it, go for it! You seem to really want the car, and be at least ok with the money involved. You're not likely to get a "killer" deal on a brand new one, but there's nothing wrong with holding off and saving a few more thousand if need be. The very first car I ever financed I was able to afford, but only just barely. That was a nightmare of a first year. Common sense and I'm sure you have, but just make sure you can afford not only the payment and insurance, but at least double of one or both of them. Just in case! Just don't get lost in the moment with the car to the point two or three months later it has you chasing pennies out of the couch

I've only seen 3 Kona Blues in person so far! All three were at the dealer I bought my Mustang from, haha. They are beautiful, if I had the cash for a brand new one I would definitely want that color! But it sounds like you got one of the most important parts covered, make sure it's what you REALLY want. Sounds like you found that, and that's good because you're gonna be tied to it for quite a while! Yeah, that Mustang club of America package is really awesome! Kind of neat that your v6 now is rated at/around what the GT's of the years prior are power-wise, and get 5 or so more miles to the gallon too!

Well, right. On a brand new car they're not going to give you much of a deal compared to a used one. Simple fact for them is, if you don't want it, someone else next week will. But that still doesn't mean a person should let themselves get cornered into a bad finance situation. Just make sure you've got them down as low as you can and that you can more than afford the payments and insurance (and most of all that you WANT it) and you're good! Well, sometimes when they print that stuff it just has certain information by default. They may not be trying to be mysterious. Just make sure. doubly, triply sure, that before you sign ANYTHING, every number, and every word, is exactly what you were told. If it's not, obviously, don't sign a damn thing. Get them to tell you the price out the door, and don't sign for a cent over it. Like they say, don't be afraid to walk out. Whether they stop you or don't, simple fact is, honestly, you will find another. Weeks or months more waiting is much better than 72 months (6 years!!) stuck with something/ a situation you regret.

Clonefan94

I just bought a 2012 V6 premium convertible last week. I had been looking since the new 3.7 V6 came out. Pretty much had the same experience at most of the dealers. I thought it was because no one had any convertibles on hand and I told them that was a must. Then 3 dealerships in the area got convertibles in. 2 of them basically treated me like you were treated. The other one was willing to sit and talk and do a little dealing, so that's who got my money.

timothybh

When I started the idea of a new car, $285 - $300 was my original goal per month. $385 is a bit up there, but doesn't include a trade-in. If I had done that, probably would be around $355 a month. $55 more than planned, but only due to extra features. Maybe the only feature, heated seats, are kind of luxury. While I find it worth it for safety for all the rest. The rear view over the should is really reduced on a Mustang, so reverse sensing and rear camera make me more comfortable. The HID Headlights are something I'm looking forward to. I'm always nervous driving at night, especially in familiar areas.

Not that this year will be easy to cope with the payment. Switching to a new job, better hours, security, higher wage, forced me to default on a 401k loan. Expecting a giant $6k tax bill next year, I've kept my tax withholdings maxed from my income. With everything I get to deduct, repair costs on my condo rental, renting at a loss, it should be wash. Next year, changing my taxes, I should gain $200-$250 a month and still have a small refund, plus a job raise. So I'll feel very comfortable with the payment then. Today, I'm about to start working once a month at my old job, that should net me $100+ each month to help with the car.

And the way I drive, 35k miles in about 10 years, I should keep really good car of this car. Though, I plan to get out and live a little more this time around. Luckily my commute is 5 minutes to work.

Sorry, OhEightGT, these details of my life might be boring. But typing it out helps put things into perspective. I really enjoyed your posts.

Oh, and the 6 years. I suppose I may pay extra principle to compensate for that 1 extra year over time. Maybe $750 extra each year might do it.

One last thing!

When you say OTD price, all the numbers. Should I be looking for detail than the list I posted in the other thread? Only thing I really don't know the hard number is the taxes & fees, but were included in the monthly fee.

I obviously should not agree to any insurance and or extended warranty when going through paperwork in financing, correct? I will miss the Hyundai warranty length.

timothybh

I figured these 2012 cars are still pretty new, they are free of 2011 stock. So probably little reason to sell cheap with decent demand.

When I let my salesman know about the test drive refusal, he said, "You mean the fat lazy guy," and he was right, he was fat, and did seem lazy. Or he maybe knew who was working that night. The lazy guy probably made up the excuse to not help me due to knowing I'm already dealing with a different salesman.

My salesman was willing to talk and help out, but just not exactly knowledgeable. With the internet, I didn't exactly need that, but he sure would get more sales if he was like the guy in the video a few post above.

Here's a thought!

Turns about my mom and her husband just bought a truck from this dealer, but a different salesman. I should have them contact their salesman, as I sure they would have his cell, and ask about how car swapping works, and if they do or not get the holdback.

timothybh

After reading a few google searchs, such as this (yahoo answers about car swaps) I don't want to feel sneaky asking another salesman if it's true or not and possibly my salesman learning I went behind his back when he did get me a good deal.

So they have to pay invoice when swapping cars, plus cost to move them, and that they may actually lose the dealer holdback. The deal I'm getting may only get them a unit sold for quota, but no much of any profit. A small about I wouldn't think at $300 fee to transfer cars 76 miles. Beating them down any further would be an awful thing to do if all true. If it was car on their lot, them maybe yes. But all their V6 Premium's are convertibles.

The "Not making any money off the deal" talk probably isn't 100% true, but I hope they make something, as long as I wasn't seriously bamboozled.

timothybh

Grammar fix:

OhEightGT

Haha, no it wasn't boring at all! Those aspects all come into play in the end when you buy a car! Like I said, this is a long term obligation and you need to cover every angle. Even if you hit the principle extra over the years, sometimes things happen and you have to account for everything! I realize you're into this particular model and year of mustang, and by all means, get what you're wanting most! But just out of curiousity, have you looked at an older GT or V6? You've probably said in another post. But all of these cars are beautiful, fun, and nice, and one of those might fit easier into what you're wanting to spend. I myself wanted a new V6 or 5.0 but I went and drove my friend's 2005 GT and realized it was as nice and fun a car as I could ever want. Ended up with a hard loaded 2008 GT with low miles for 18,000 flat out the door. Around town I can now hit 22-25 MPG easy and on the highway (here our roads are pretty flat and smooth though!) I have approached 30mpg. Anyway, point is, if a brand new one doesn't fit into what you really want to pay, you might do yourself a service in just "checking out" a slightly used one and seeing if they are a fun/smart match too! I didn't even bother with testing a new V6 or 5.0 because I know I'd have wanted to pull the trigger

Anyway! That was long-winded, sorry! Honestly, yes, about the OTD price. Always ask the dealer the final cost OTD and make them stay bound to it. Otherwise you get hit with the whole "this car is $ ___________ " and then during the last bit in financing they hit you with all kinds of BS fees and prices you were not told about until you're sitting there dying to have the car with a pen in your hand. Not all dealers do that but it's a tactic with some. For example after the drive and going over some slight dents and dings I have to get fixed on my GT, the fact the previous owner modified the exhaust heavily (which I like, saves me money but don't let them know that !! ) I talked them down and got them to agree to $18,000 OTD and by god when it was all said and done it was $18,000 all inclusive. Make them stick to what they say. If they tell you a price OTD and at the end try adding docking fees or anything else, get up and start walking.

Yeah, a lot of salesmen are lazy. I kind of understand it, especially when relating to Mustangs or Camaros or anything like that. There are probably more people than we can imagine that come in and just want to ride in one. When you joyride and go no further that's time and money to the salesman, while you were taking him for a spin with no chance of buying he may miss a customer who would seriously buy the car. But make sure they know you are interested and if they won't let you drive, like I said before, just leave. Don't even talk money or about the car until you're behind the wheel. If they aren't interested in letting you sit in the damn thing for 10 minutes, they don't need your thousands and thousands of dollars bad enough But you should definitely ask about the holdback with the guy your parents used if they had a good experience.

Another rule. Don't feel bad about what you do with the sales staff. if you catch one in a lie or they say something that doesn't make sense, by all means check it out with another, or another dealer. If they have a problem with it, tough. You're dropping a huge amount of money. Don't let their feelings or anything stop you from covering every angle and getting the best deal. If they lose a sale, they need more practice. You're out for you, and what you want, not for what the salesman wants or needs. I promise you, you will NOT get ANY car at a price that costs the dealership money. They won't go hungry They won't even turn a car loose to break even unless it's a nightmare of a trade in they got into. On a new car, no way. They're not going to just "break even". If they are anywhere near that point on the car, they will flat out tell you no. Don't let them work you over into paying something unfair to you I'm not saying go in hard nosed and wanting to rip them off, but don't let them spin it around on you. Some of them have pretty sharp tongues and a lot of nonsense behind it! Not saying this is true of your dealer, just saying don't let them make you feel bad to get a deal. You're out for you. Let them worry about them. They'll say no before they let you take it out of their hands at cost or zero profit