Rubrignitz

An oil change takes me maybe 20 minutes so I don't need to wait for a Saturday morning. I just order my amoil and swap it whenever it arrives.

I'm up to ~12,000 miles now on my last swap of SSO 0w-30. I may run it out to 15k. Almost zero oil is lost between changes on my car and the little that is lost I attribute to crankcase ventilation loss through the intake. I need to install the catchcan I've been considering. I would probably lose zero at that point.

Oil looks dark golden when coming out at 10k. I don't live in a sandy, dusty area and basically drive my car to work and back (20 miles each way). That's about it. No extreme conditions or severe use. I'm sure I could go 20k between changes but that may be pusing it. I'm not ready until I get some oil analyzed after the 10-12k intervals I've been using.

I was changing my oil frequently for the first 20k but now after full breakin only twice per year.

Z28KLR

For now I'm happy with the Mobil 1. I know many here say it's overkill, but I still change it every 3500 miles, as I live in a fairly dusty area (high desert). It might be purely psychological, but the engine seems to feel happier with fresh oil at these intervals. I'm still not sure how people are filling up with 6qts., though. I fill with 5qt., and even after running the engine and subsequently priming the filter my dipstick reads solid right to the top of the "MAX" line (600 miles on my current oil change, and reads full). I have an embedded fear of overfilling the crankcase. And so far I'm not losing any oil in between changes (almost 83K miles).

Frostbitten

i use mobil1 5w-30 and a motorcraft filter. if I use that combo every 3000 miles my engine wont hardly wear at all. thats all im worried about

2k05gt

Here is a guy who cut apart several Oil Filters and to My Suprize the Filter I use was top, Numero Uno, Yea ..

http://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/index.html

Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Oil Filter
is the best filter, @ $12-$14 it better be. Plus it has the relief valve on the base where Ford (Modular motors) recommends it to be not at the Top or Cap.

BruceH

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RogerDodger1

Actually, it could wear quite a lot compared to other oils, regardless of the drain interval --

RogerDodger1

A racing engine needs a racing oil filter. A street engine needs a street oil filter. Hence, this is why there are racing oil filters and street oil filters. The misapplication of the oil filter, (using a racing oil filter in a street application. or a street oil filter in a racing application), might be unwise.

Racing engines seeing very high RPM's for long durations of time benefit more from high oil flow than the superior filtration of a street oil filter, especially since a racing engine is rebuilt very often compared to a street engine. Rebuilding a racing engine is expected, but due to high cost is to be avoided with a street engine if at all possible. We wouldn't want the engine wear that could occur because of the use of a racing oil filter in a street engine. For this reason racing oil filters tend to sacrifice filtration for maximum oil flow and are not installed by the factory with a new vehicle intended for street use.

Looking at the link provided, the Ford Racing Oil Filter looks of comparatively cheap construction, (compared with some of the other oil filters), with old school paper filtration media. The cutting-edge technology Amsoil nanofiber media oil filter filters out far more abrasive particles and for a longer period of time than a paper oil filter is capable of. Nanofiber filtration is even used by the U.S. Army in the Abrams M-1 main battle tank.

BruceH

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Rubrignitz

I would like to see those interpreted as well. IMO all you need to look at in a race filter is restriction, collapse and burst indicators. It's NOT a long life filter.

Rubrignitz

Champ labs