SVTeeshirt

Sigh... someone in the 4.6 gen section... Hoss maybe? Did an experiment in a tech school and it pretty much showed, not even dino oils they tested (and they tested a large varity) began to break down untill 4000+ miles, some synthetics went 6, and 7k+ miles without breakdown. They concluded there is no other benefits to a synthetic otherwise so why waste the money? Or something along those lines...

mfj

Synthetic, ESPECIALLY RP, is overpriced marketing at its best... Not worth it... I use conventional oil

Mustang3GT07

uhh whaa!! lol

SVTeeshirt

Did you not read my post at all?

Studies have shown there is NO advantage to synthetics besides longevity..... he's not hurting his car and you're a fool if you think he is by using conventional oil.

Mustang3GT07

Did you do the study on it? Did you test out the 2? I'm just messin with ya man, I'm just in one of them moods today lol, that's why I said "uhh whaa";

Scoutn757

I run mobil 1 5w30 synthetic in my 100k mile 99 cobra. ONLY reason I use synthetic is I get into positions at time where I cannot change it right at 3k miles, sometimes not until 5k and I like the peace of mind

donnieb83

Good info. I just picked up an 01 Cobra with 128K miles and wasn't sure which to use. I was told to use something with a thicker weight because of the miles on the engine. I use Mobil 1 5w-30 in my TL so this works out perfect. I'm locate in GA so the weather is "to cold."

uberstang1

Well I thought I'd post after reading some comments, for a background I use over the counter synthetics. As far as the DINO vs SYN goes, I had an 87 ranger 14 inches of lift, 40inch tires powered by a 347 SBF. Main bearings were getting weak and after about 10 minutes and the engine warmed up Oil pressure would drop from 40psi to 10psi with a 20w50 dino oil(mechanical gauge) and have a slight knock to it. I decided to switch to a 20w50 synthetic and immediatly noticed a difference, after warming up the oil pressure would not drop below 20psi regardless of run time and the engine would not knock. I beleive this was due to the fact the synthetic oil doesnt thin out with heat like the dino oil does which did make a difference. For some background the two oils in were conventional valvoline 20w50 and valvoline synpower 20w50. Before anyone ask why I was running 20w50, I put a 20w30 in it and the OP was so low and it knocked like a bastard, 20psi on startup is NOT good and a SBF needs atleast 8psi to survive which it would not have gotten with the 10-30

Unleashedbeast

His test was flawed, and was only testing ONE aspect of synthetic versus conventional (dino), and there's more to comparing both versions that shearing alone. There are so many other areas that a true synthetic benefits over dino oil. Anyone to say otherwise is a fool, and only thinks that because of what someone else told them. Study it in depth for yourself, and you will see the difference.

Uberstang has shown you another aspect I am talking about, HT/HS (High Temp / High Shear). 100% Synthetics are superior here too. I mean real synthetics like Royal Purple, Red Line, and Amsoil, not the group III hydrocracked "refined petroleum" you mostly see at the parts store or Wal Mart.

Conclusion: deciding that a true synthetic isn't worth the cost considering shearing alone is a fools test with failed assumptions.

nascrchi

10w30 Castrol edge full synthetic is good