N2nething

for some reason i cant post my pics. any ideas?
Here is my recent purchase of a broken Paxton SN 2000. It was very stiff to turn, probably took about 50 ft lb torque to turn it, but there was no strange sounds.


Found out that the brackets for these are the same for the sn 89, 92, 93, 2000. I began looking online for info, on how hard these are supposed to be to turn before I purchased but there was nothing. So since I got this one, and found out that was way too stiff and that something was wrong, I decided to share what I know about this Paxton supercharger. Also, even if you don’t have this one, other Paxtons seem to be very similar with just few changes. Hope this helps everyone.

We’ll start by saying that this is lubricated with Type F ATF fluid or Dextron/Mercon Fluid, so get some rags, and paper towels ready and don’t take it apart on your carpet. We’ll start with the easiest part. Taking off the back which lets you have access to the impeller and the triple lip rear seal.
Remove the bolts that run around the outside of the rear cover by using a t 27 socket.
That will expose the impeller looking like this.

This units impeller is secured by a 12 point 5/16” bolt and washer, I had to use an impact because I couldn’t hold the impeller from turning without damaging something. The impact worked perfectly, though I wouldn’t recommend it for putting it back on as these units are working with very very close margins and overtightening this bolt can close the small gap that is there and make it not turn and/or scrape. Once you remove the impeller, there is a very thin metal disc/washer. If you remove it, you will expose two pins that stick out of the shaft that line up the impeller and hold it from slipping. You can also see the rear, triple lips seal. You can remove this from the other side the easiest. That is all that is able to be accessed from this side. Lucky for me, I just found out that I have a high output impeller on this for an extra 2-3psi boost.

Now let’s work on removing the front plate and components.

Use a 9/16 socket to remove the bolt from the pulley, make sure that you have the thinnest 9/16 socket you can get because if you have a wider one that doesn’t fit down in the hole, there is very little of the bolt head sticking out to grab onto, and you could easily strip this out. Once you have a thin 9/16 socket, this is a sinch with an impact wrench.
Now you’ll see a black washer and you have the stem that has one groove in it, the pulley that you pulled off has two grooves and a rectangular piece of metal that aligns and hold the two together without slipping. Remove the black washer. Now there is a metal sleeve and the front seal level with the front housing, and is around the stem.
Now remove the the 6 bolts that hold the front cover on with a t 30 socket and lift the front cover straight up carefully. Depending on how worn or lubed your front seal is, the stem and assembly could fall out. Don’t worry about pieces going everywhere, that wont happen, you just don’t want to drop it. It is pretty expensive ya know. If you were careful, and you turn the front panel over so you can see inside of it, you should see this.


There is a large thin black o ring gasket that goes around this front cover as you can see in the picture directly above. There are two bearings in this assembly you will be able to see in a minute. Remove this by tapping on the outside stem with a rubber mallet. That should remove it. Now you see your front seal which can be obtained at NAPA for cheap. If you look at the assembly in your hand, it should look like this, and you can see the two bearings and if theres anything wrong with them.



Lucky for me, there was nothing wrong with this assembly for me, so I didn’t get into taking this apart. The main unit here is called the oil pump carrier. I did notice that there is a very small breather on the inside of the front cover that can be removed with the proper wrench or deep socket. Also on the assembly we took out, there is an arm with a spring wrapped around it. My best guess is that this will gradually shift over to the other side as the rpms increase, but not exactly sure what its purpose is or how that effects things. There is a small filter screen and clip on the end of this arm. You can just pull the clip off, clean the metal screen, and you will see a flat head screw. The brass ball carrier is at the very end.


I didn’t mess with the screw, but obviously the ATF fluid has to be pushed through this arm, and out of the screen. Now look at the main body of the supercharger we uncovered and you should see this.
Now use the size 7 allen wrench to remove the 6 bolts from this race retainer.
Underneath that piece is a thin metal washer (not sure if this is a optional shim), remove this. Now is the upper half of the race. There is a small slot here that keep this lined up correctly so you only have to put your finger inside the groove between the *****, and wiggle it up and down at the same time. Again very tight clearances. It should come out easily.

Now remove the 5 ***** also. There should be grease on these. Wipe them off and when you reassemble remember to grease them again using
Now you should see 3 different things. There is the bottom half of the race, a circular track for the race called Bellevue washer, and mine had a shim, these may or may not be needed depending on your supercharger. Remove them.

Now you can remove the rear seal if you need to, but if its not leaking or look bad, I wouldn’t take it out. These have to be ordered from the company or have one made. There is a guy that I got one through that will sell you supercharger parts so you can do it yourself listed at the end of this. Also if you are planning on going this far on this side of the supercharger, but you didn’t need to take off the impeller side for any reason, you could skip all the steps with removing the back panel and just go straight to the front. In that case the impeller and the output shaft will still be connected like this.

It goes back together just the same as it was removed. That wasn’t too bad was it? Remember not to over torque anything, this is aluminum. Now that your done make sure that your not turning your supercharger too fast, thus causing it to fail early and void warranties. Divide the crank pulley by the blower pulley, then multiply that by 4.41, and then multiply that number by the RPM (5500), if it is more than 38,000 the warranty is voided

A good supercharger will turn very easily. You can put one finger into the impeller and turn it. If you turn the pulley with a flick of the wrist, it should spin but stop very quickly after you release. I wish I had this info before I bought this, haha, but then who would help you guys. Heres a site that I found you can order parts separately or have them rebuild it for you, but why when its this easy? This guy was really helpful and nice. http://www.superchargerrebuild.com/?page_id=3

This company also offers some parts and a reasonable price for rebuild:
http://www.cundnracing.com/servlet/StoreFront

These companies aren’t helpful at all but heres these also:

Paxton Automotive NOVI Superchargers and NOVI Supercharging Systems
All Paxton Automotive gear driven NOVI superchargers are serviced exclusively by Paxton Automotive.
» 888-9-PAXTON (toll free)
» 805-487-3796 (voice)
» 805-247-0669 (fax)

Paxton Automotive Ball Drive Series Superchargers
All Paxton Automotive ball drive (SN series) superchargers are now serviced exclusively by Paradise Wheels. The company can be reached here:

920 Rancheros Drive Suite E
San Marcos, CA 92069
Phone: 760-740-0954
Fax: 760-740-0956

N2nething

found out what the oiler arm is for with the spring wrapped around it. This is what creates the extra weight for the 2 speeds to the supercharger. when you get to a certain rpms, that arm swings out and the extra weight allows the assembly to turn quicker.

Thsisinsanity

If the weight swung out it would spin slower... same principle if you sit in a chair and bring your arms and legs in you spin faster, while leaving them extended slows you down.