more bang, less bucks
#11
more bang, less bucks
Originally Posted by Jugador
only way to make those respectable without extensive workis forced induction and the onlykind cheap enough to make it worth doing is nitrous
Agree.........and another thing, you are making the same mistake other ricers make. Thy spend a s**t lot of cash to make their cars run in the upper 14's to later add 50-110 pounds of premium sound equipment (subwoofers, speakers) to their cars interior and trunk, is that stupimoronic orwhat....no flamming intended..<IMG src=smileys/smiley2.gif border="0"></P>
#12
more bang, less bucks
Originally Posted by Jugador
4.10'swould berear end gears. they let the car gofaster but make you go a higher rpm than you used to at the same speed. trac lok i believe makes the differential limited slip or something...eliminates single wheel burnouts i think</P>
<FONT color=#990000 size=5>Locking and Torsen®
</FONT><FONT size=3>The locking differential is useful for serious off-road vehicles. This type of differential has the same parts as an open differential, but adds an electric, pneumatic or hydraulic mechanism to lock the two output pinions together. </FONT></P>
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<FONT size=1>Image courtesy </FONT><FONT size=1>Eaton Automotive Group's</FONT><FONT size=1> Torque Control Products Division</FONT>
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<FONT color=red>This mechanism is usually activated manually by switch, and when activated, both wheels will spin at the same speed. If one wheel ends up off the ground, the other wheel won't know or care. Both wheels will continue to spin at the same speed as if nothing had changed. </FONT>
The Torsen differential* is a purely mechanical device; it has no electronics, clutches or viscous fluids.
The Torsen (from Torque Sensing) works as an open differential when the amount of torque going to each wheel is equal. As soon as one wheel starts to lose traction, the difference in torque causes the gears in the Torsen differential to bind together. The design of the gears in the differential determines the torque bias ratio. For instance, if a particular Torsen differential is designed with a 5:1 bias ratio, it is capable of applying up to five times more torque to the wheel that has good traction.</P><edited><editID>NO2JUNKIE</editID><editDate>38015.9207986111</editDate></edited>
#13
more bang, less bucks
Originally Posted by Krusher
well a CAI will do a few things for you... it will allow more air to be able to get to your TB (you'll see minimal gains in higher RPMs) but it will give you a little suction noise which I enjoy hearing... you've got to start somewhere... and if you go through ebay you can get a CAI kit with everything you need (almost) for like $50 shipped.</P>
When I say almost I mean you have two options... the crankcase hose you can either get a longer hose to make it reach the tube where it goes into the piping or you can run to autozone (what I did) and get a little $10 crankcase filter (any color you little heart desires) and use that with a vacuum cap on the piping.</P>
Other mods for someone with low funds would be a short shifter ~$125-$200... no power gain but it will allow you to get the the gear quicker, allowing for a faster (like 1/10th) 1/4 mile time. 25% UDPs (under drive pulleys) are one of the best ways for an NA car to take power from the belt and put it to the wheels... The rear seat delete kit will cost you ~$50 from ebay but watch that you don't get the cheap cardboard ones that fall apart as soon as you put any weight on them. That will drop ~40lbs off your total weight allowing for a better acceleration. <FONT color=red size=5>Making the engine breath better with a true dual exhaust will give you a good base for future modifications.</FONT> Intake spacers will do a litle (~9# of torque I think it was dynoed to). There are a lot of modifications you can do... you just have to go with whatever you want to do... don't let other people decide for you what you want to do with your car... do what you want to do.</P>
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EDIT: oh yeah... I'm also taking into account that you're not a mechanic that can pull apart a pumpkin and replace the gears... or.... replace the entire pumpkin. If I'm wrong, good for you!</P>
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<FONT color=red size=3>Thats BS, not true for a 3.8L V6, waste of money</FONT></P>
#14
more bang, less bucks
thanks for the tips, and look im not lookin to enter races so im not worried about the 50 lbs the subs weigh, im just lookin for a little more accel and quickness. im not lookin at major mods, but somethin easy thats not too expensive and can be done soon. Is getting the CAI through ebay ok, and are the companies that make those kits legit, in other words whats a good company to get a CAI kit through on ebay.</P>
PS as much as i wish my car were manual, its not,dont get me wrong i can drive stick just as well as the next guy, or better, but drivingon washington DC highways in rush hour with stick is a huge bitch</P>
#17
more bang, less bucks
just letting you all know in case it matters, and right now a CAI is lookin like the best option, what was ur idea again jugador?</P>
ps no2junkie needs to either help or shut his mouth and leave, 50 lbs is not equal to 1000lbs<IMG src=smileys/smiley7.gif border="0"></P>
#18
more bang, less bucks
Originally Posted by audioman
just letting you all know in case it matters, and right now a CAI is lookin like the best option, what was ur idea again jugador?</P>
ps no2junkie needs to either help or shut his mouth and leave, 50 lbs is not equal to 1000lbs<IMG src=smileys/smiley7.gif border="0"></P>
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Leave?, dont make me laugh.....CAI is nothing, you wont gain any power from that, I thought we told you thatalready kid</P>
#20
more bang, less bucks
ummm.... I don't know about all you guys but I like to do my own work... and no, I'm not a ricer... I just don't have the $400 right now for a nitrous setup or the $2500 for a blower and for that matter why not just say the magic words... "should of gotten a GT"... flaming me over little bolt on modifications isn't going to make you a better or bigger man... I was stating little things that a <FONT size=6>17</FONT><FONT size=1> year old kid can do with a part time job and feel good about himself doing modifications to his car on his own.</FONT></P>
<FONT size=1>And I love how I get flamed by someone that has his nick completely wrong... NO2JUNKIE.... HAH... you really don't know chemistry do you?</FONT></P>
<FONT size=1>And why I wouldn't get a 4.1 gear pumpkin is simple...</FONT><FONT size=1> the higher the RPMs.... the higher the fuel consumption....................................... .......................... don't you remember when you were 17 and only had $5 in your pocket for gas for the rest of the month?</FONT></P>
<FONT size=1>Now that I'm done with my own suit... as I previously stated in my original post... do what YOU want to do with your own car... if you want to put a huge 1400# stereo in... then do it... if you want to "throw away money" by putting little measly bolt-ons because that's all you can afford right now... then go right ahead... leave the gear heads that only respect 400rwhp and above cars to their own little world and enjoy your car.</FONT></P>
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<FONT size=1>EDIT: oh yeah... and to back up my posts (I know this isn't as good as the almighty ASE) I have a certificationas anAutomotive Technician and I have a BS in Nuclear Engineering Tech. I'm not just some kid who's trying to pick a fight.</FONT></P><edited><editID>Krusher</editID><editDate>38015.9465277778</editDate></edited>