silver05gt1

I guess the angle must have been alot farther off than I thought. Because I got the pinion angle right and the noise is still there. So now I guess I get to pay to have the pinion bearing changed out. That is the only thing that I haven't had done. And as far as I can think it is the only thing I can figure would be causing the noise. [:@] Unless of course anyone else has any ideas as to anything else that could cause the noise??

praztek

I'm in the process of eliminating that annoying wheel hop. Currently I have the Roush rear springs,stock tires, and one piece aluminum driveshaft. I've purchased the Che Adjustable LCA's.

If calling a shop, they should know what to do, when I ask them to check/adjust the pinion and transmission shaft? Anything else I should have them adjust? From what I'm reading that if I choose to go with a wider tire in the back, I'll have to get this all re adjusted again?

When I purshed the Roush springs, I was told to just verify that the oem lca's are parallel with the ground,and nothing else needed to be checked?

Thanks

praztek

I called Powerhouse per my changing my order to the adjustable Che's. They said 95 % of all customers go with the fixed length. If any changes need to be made, then you get a adjustable upper. And if the back is that much out of whack, you get the adjustable panhard bar.

?

CrazyAl

I think you may be a bit misinformed here. The panhard bar and the control arms are seperate parts that adjust two completely different things.

Adjusting the control arms affects the pinion angle.

Adjusting the panhard bar moves the rear axle from side-to-side (as in driver's side/passenger's side).



As for the control arms, an adjustable upper or adjustable lowers acheive the same goal: both let you adjust your pinion angle. However, I would suggest using adjustable lowers (with a solid upper). Here is why:

1) The upper LCA is much harder to get to in order to adjust it.
2) The adjustable uppers are nowhere near as strong as the solid uppers. Even the Metco upper, which people claim to be the best of the adjustable UCAs, is not even close to as strong as a 1-pc UCA. It is stronger and stiffer to have adjustable lowers and a solid upper, rather than the other way around.

Now then, there is one advantage to using the adjustable upper: when you make the adjustment you only have to adjust one turnbuckle, not two. This is a little simpler. However, I don't think that this is a big deal.

praztek

Thanks for clearing that up!

moosestang

If the needle on my angle finder is to the left of zero does that mean it's a negative number? I'm guessing so. I picked up an angle finder in lowes for $10. My drive shaft looks to be about -5 degrees and the pinion yoke looks like -2 degrees. That's at stock height. I'm not sure how I'm going to measure it once it's lowered. I can barely get under there now and it says to have the car level. I guess i need a lift.

CrazyAl

"left or right" of zero is meaningless. That depends on what side of the car you are on etc. It doesn't really matter though--what you are looking for is the difference between the two numbers, when they are measured in the same manner. The difference should be as small as possible, and they both should be on the same side of zero.

I wouldn't worry so much about the car being level. If it's not level, that's OK becasue both angles will be tilted together, so they will be "off" the same amount, which means the difference will be unaffected. However, you DO have to make sure the rear suspension is loaded when you make the measurement.

Your car has a difference of 3 degrees. That's within the range specified by BMR, though on my car things worked better with an angle of 1.5-2 degrees (manual trans).

moosestang

Yep! thought about that after I posted. [sm=chairshot.gif]

I'll lower atleast the rear tommorrow and see what the angle is at, plus I have to install the che LCA's. They seem well made, but I wish they had a grease fitting.