F1Fan

Hi rnail,

Which front anti-roll bar setting gives you the most neutral handling balance depends on a lot of stuff mostly the springs installed and how you have your struts and rear dampers set along with tire pressure. With the Steeda anti-roll bars I would start with the middle setting and go from there.

As far as the one time fasteners go if you are talking about the anti-roll bar link ball jointsyou may be able to reuse theseif you want but you must be certain to achive full factory torque at the nut and you need to make sure that the nut was not damged when removed. This is where 95% of the mysterious front end klunking noises come from even after the dealer replaces the strut bearings. Ford also appears to haveused more than one type of nut for the A-R bar ball link ball joints, some are a NyLoc style with a nylon insert that is pressed against the threads of the male fastener and some are an alloy nut that looks like a NyLoc but is all alloy including the part where the normalnylon insert usually is. I have also seen a couple of bone stock '05 GT's with a weird distorted nut with no apparent locking design. This is what was on my '05 and was also in the first little bagof Ford dealer sourced nuts as shown on the computer screen for the A-R bar links. But I have also seensome original '06 and all '07 GT's withwhat look like conventional NyLoc nuts and these are fine to reuse as long as the nylon insert is intact and not damaged. So I just tell people to buy a few and keep a couple of spare pairs if they are planing to adjust their front bar just in case.

Cheers!

carolnjeff

I've been reading the handling posts for months now and I'm about to place an order but I want to get everyone's thoughts before I pull the trigger...

My car is a daily driver (1.5 - 2 hours a day in traffic). I'd like to firm up the suspension plus I like the look of lowered cars. I enjoy spirited driving (corners and some drag racing) but the car will be my daily driver for years to come and I really want to keep away from a harsh ride. I'm want to keep the parts around $1300 so the budget is a real constaint (as much as I wish it wasn't).

1. Tokico D-Specs with the remote adjusters ~ $550 (the remote adjusters are basically free as part of a package deal on StangSuspensions)
2. Springs---I'm really struggling here. My first choice is the Eibach Pro Kit mostly because of the looks plus it is the least expensive and still high quality. I live in the Atlanta area so there is no snow, no potholes, and the roads are fairly good. Our driveway isn't toosteep and the speedbumps in the area are pretty small. Please let me know if you think these springs will be too low for what I want. My second choice would probably be the Steeda Sport Springs as I really struggle to pay the price of the Steeda Competition Springs ~ $225
3. Steeda Street (adjustable)Panhard Bar and HD Brace ~ $275
4. Eibach camber bolts ~ $25
5. Steeda's new Competition UCA ~ $225
6. BMR non-adjustable LCAs (basically free through a package deal on StangSuspensions)

This is a great site and I appreciate any help and insight anyone has.

Thanks!
Jeff

F1Fan

Hi Jeff,

I would only change a couple of things. First is the springs Eibach Pro-Kit and Steeda Competitionsprings are the stiffest streetable spring on the market. The Eibach Pro-Kit springs are also the absolutely thelowest practical ride height for a daily driven car. The Steeda Comps are about a 1/2" taller all around and offer better roll center height, betterrear anti-squat and less roll understeer than the Eibach Pro-Kit springscan due to this 1/2" difference. You mention that ride is important to you and that you like the look of the lowered Mustang. This is fine theolnly real problem is that to keep your ride nice you need to increase your ride height to allow thesuspension to have enough working room for suspension travel.

HTH!

Kobie

F1 Fan,

What is your opinion on the Watts Link type rear suspension in general and it's viability on a street car that will see an occasional autocross and open track day?

Thanks for the input!

Norm Peterson

Did you ever solve your ride issue?

If it was characterized by side to side head-tossing when going over one wheel bumps or encountering drainage ditches at an angle, there may be a couple of mods you can make to the existing poly bushings to reduce it. Depending on what you have for tools, it might be as cheap as $0.00 out of pocket. Might end up tinkering with shock settings afterward.


Norm

itchy5

F1Fan

How convinced are you that a new UCA mounting bracket is required. The reason I ask is that some how I missed your post on this forum, and somehow this point in your comments on other forums. I already bought, unpacked, and played withmy Street UCA which is used with the stock mounting bracket. Should I just bite the bullet and spend the $200 bucks on the upgrade kit which comes with the better bracket?

Thanks