2006gtmike

I am getting a 1-piece aluminum driveshaft installed this month (website is http://www.evoperform.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19_38&a mp;products_id=235) and I am being told that it is mandatory that I get an adjustable UCA and/or LCA's installed or the pinion angle will be stressed. Also, I am looking to "stop the hop" and gain traction, who isn't haha. So I was looking at getting the Steeda Part#555-4109 UCA (http://www.steeda.com/products/adjus...ontrol_arm.php)and Steeda Part#555-4422 LCA (http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...ntrol_arms.php) parts. Would these Steeda parts be ideal? Should they ALL be adjustable or not? Is this all I would need for this specific application or would you recommend other parts? I want to have all the parts in hand before my appointment. And lastly, where is the best place to order them from, other than directly from Steeda?

My Mustang is a Automatic transmission daily driver that I would take to the drag strip once a month and my ride height is stock for the moment, however, I may lower it approximately 1' down the road.

I DID read F1Fan's many great posts but it seems as thoughhe liked the BMR products then he liked the newer Steeda UCA...so I dunno.

hammeron

it's personal choice, but a lot of people
get the adjustable upper control arm and
fixed lowers, that way there is only one
adjustment point for the pinion angle.

Stoenr

Im just gonna toss this out there.

I installed adj lowers only, uppers are stock. No wheel hop and I can adjust my pinion angle.........

2006gtmike

Stoenr: What adjustable LCA's did you install? How much were they are where did you purchase your's from? Thanks.

Stoenr

http://www.cheperformance.com/cartge...161&cid=15

2006gtmike

Stoenr: Thanks for the link! Which of the 3 different bushing/rod end configurations did you choose?

I might do what you did, but others are tellin' me it's better to have just 1 adjustable point instead of 2.

By the way, I like the look of your car. You have the same exterior color as my car. Mine has no chin spoiler orhood like yoursthough.

Stoenr

Thanks. Rod End/Poly end. Yes I agree, only need for 1 end to be adjustable. Only makes for more noise and harder ride for 2 adjustable ends..........Unless you're going for drag car vs daily driver.

mygt500

Also the UCA is harder to adj if you dont have a lift IMO. That thing is way up there in the middle of everything. If your car is lowered I would get the adj. LCA's and an adj .panhard bar to center the rear. I did not notice any lowering springs mentioned in your sig and thought if you were going to get lowering springs that the panhard bar will help too for that application.

F1Fan

Hi 2006gtmike,

I like the BMRsuspension parts for drag applications, simple,reasonsbly pricedand sturdy. For a street/road course oriented suspension I much prefer Steeda's line of suspension for many reasons but primarily due to Steeda's higher level ofdesign, engineeringand fabrication.

If your car is a DD and you like to go to the drag strip once a month and maybe want to try out a HPDE or autoX event once in a whileI suggest usingonly poly bushings for your suspension. The Steeda Comp/Street UCA and UCA mount kit you had selected and the Steeda tubular LCA's you had also picked out are a pefect choice. Combined they are excellentchoices butas other here have posted it is hard to adjust the pinion angle yorself unless you have access to a drive up alignment rack or you have a good relationship with a local alignment shop that will help you do the alignment the way Steeda instructs you to. Of course you only have to adjust the UCA once unless you changeyour springs at some point as you say you plan to do.If you have access toa drive up rack it is a 10 minute job to set the pinion angle. This new Steeda UDA/UCA mount and longer upper control arm setup works great and improves the car's anti-squat giving you more grip at launch than BMR's UCA mount can and does it with less pinion angle change through out the rear axle travel and less chance of brake hop. I upgraded my original Steeda adjustable UCA to the newly re-designed UCA and UCA mount and this3-piece bushing seems to work better with lower levels of NVH than the older two-piece UCA bushings had. Of course you can also upgrade your old Steeda adjustable UCA with thenew 3-piece bushings fromSteeda but you don't get the advantage of the longer control arm, relocated control arm mounting points and heavy duty UCA mount.

If you are concerned aboutaccess to the UCA adjuster don't worry you only need to set the pinion angle once. or when you change your springs to change ride height or alter IC using LCA relocationbrackets.It is notany easier to adjust the pinion angle at the LCA's thanadjustingat the UCA because you still need a drive up lift/alignment rack to set pinion angle with adjustable LCA's but now there aretwice as many places to screw up the adjustments and also potentially mess up the chassis thrust angle. I highly recommend the Steeda Comp/Street adjustable UCA/UCA mount kit and fixed tubular LCA's as you originally posted. If you are like most folks once you find a good setting you will not need to touch them again for a long time so the adjustable UCA is not any more ofa problem than adjustable LCA's and a fixed UCA which will not have the advantages of the new mount and longer control arm.

Anyquestion just ask!

HTH!

2006gtmike

Thank you F1Fan for the great information!

I am going to order the Steeda Part#555-4109 UCA http://www.steeda.com/products/adjus...ontrol_arm.phpand Steeda Part#555-4422 LCA http://www.steeda.com/products/steed...ntrol_arms.php.

Anyone know the best/cheapest place I can order these Steeda parts from, other than the Steeda website?