scramblr

What's holding up your radiator? The hoses? If so, that may not last long.

Norm Peterson

That sort of depends on each individual's definition of "hauling *** around curves". Specific observations that I've made indicate that most traffic stays below about 0.2 lateral g in turns taken at speeds above about 30 mph. A few will runup to0.3g. Almost nobody goes past 0.5g.

The point here is that whether there's a front sta-bar or not doesn't make a whole lot of difference when the driving is within any reasonable level of intensity. There isn't enough lateral load transfer happening or enough going on in the way of slip angles for most people to even notice.

Pressed for my own definition of "hauling *** around curves", for reasonably smooth pavement I might put it at 80% or so of the lateral g's published in the monthly magazines. Definitely hustling, but with at least a 10% margin on the absolute grip-limited speed. IOW, slightly north of 0.7 lateral g for most any cornering-oriented tire/wheel combination.

Full disclosure - I am a rather dedicated corner-carver and semi-serious autocrosser. I wouldn't drive around without a front sta-bar in place by choice, although I do have some experience with endlink bushings in such bad shape that the bar might as well not have been there. But even that's more a matter of personal preferences than on any difficulty in keeping the thing on the road and pointed in the right direction during driving that admittedly goes beyond 0.5g on a fairly frequent basis.

Actually, there are at least two opposing effects related to whether the front sta-bar is there or not. Losing the front roll stiffness is an effect in the "oversteer" direction. But it is at least partly balanced by what the greater amount of roll does to the camber on your front tires while you are cornering it hard - the outside front goes more positive, the inside front more negative, both of which mean that there's less front grip. That's your more-understeer effect.


Norm

D_Gusler

UUHhhhhh the radiator support.

Removed the two bolts on the end links to strut mounts.
Removed the four bolts on the sway bar brackets.
Removed entire swaybar.


And I'm done. No swaybar. Free mod. No problems.

scramblr

I'm stupid, never mind.[&:] I had taken all of mine off at the same time, so was thinking it's all one. Been awhile since I've looked at the front end. I'm usually in the middle and towards the back when under there. I'll go back to sleep now.

D_Gusler

Its all good baby. [8D]

GT Bob

Umm...I think you've completely missed the point of the mod. The idea is by removing the front swaybar, you can then swap out the radiator support for one that doesn't have to hold up to the stresses put onto it by the front swayabar. This new radiator support weighs about 35 pounds less than the stock one. 35 pounds off the front of the car on a drag launch is a huge advantage.

Just removing the swaybar will get you absolutely no where. I popped mine off one night to try and help the weight transfer and got absolutely nothing from it. My best ET's, trap speeds and short times were all identical to when it was on. No matter what I tried in the 7 runs that night, it was still the same..

D_Gusler

Your opinion. I picked up a consistant .1 in the 1/8 By removing the swaybar w/ no other mods. most deffinetely allows the front end to rise much more.

redfireshaker06

Where are you guys getting them so cheap? Cheapest I have seen is $100 from Blow by and Granatelli. BRM is still at $169. Help me out here guys. lol

Diabolical!

I get on it every once in a while, but I generally take it pretty easy on the street. I will say this, removing the front swaybar was VERY noticable on my SN95s, but on my S197, I can't even tell that it's gone.

Sleeper05

The car actually still handles pretty well with no front sway bar or strut tower brace in. I wouldn't push the car to its limit though.