Menace

I basically want no limitations, but I want a well-rounded machine. I don't plan on doing any autocross, and I do enjoy the drag strip... but I just want a car that can handle anything you throw at it so I don't want to make it a straight line vehicle only.

Question is, how good is the watts-link system? Is it better than the current panhard/brace setup we have now? Will I feel a difference between the watts-link setup or upgrading the current setup with aftermarket panhard/brace/etc during spirited driving, the drag strip, etc?

Thanks.

2007GT/CS

https://mustangforums.com/m_4520700/tm.htm

zkiller

I would be looking at the Fayes because the Saleen Watts link has been recalled.

Norm Peterson

Here's a discussion that's still in progress (hint: you might want to subscribe to it).

https://mustangforums.com/m_4450518/tm.htm


Norm

F1Fan

Hi Menace,

Hmm, a well rounded machine that can take anything you throw at it, that sounds exactly like what Ford delivered in the stock S197GT! If you feel there is something amiss with your S197 work on that part first to optimize the chassis to your localconditions and uses.

The Watt's link you choose will be the limiting factor in how "good" it is. Awell implemented Watt's link is an excellent improvement overthestockPanhard bar on a street car. Comparing a well implemented Wat's link to a well implemented Panhard bar is a little bit more muddy as the implementation and intended usage will skew the results ofyour "what is best" sort of question. Awell done Watt's link is not an inexpensive option and that is what it will take toshow a significant improvement over a well done Panahrdbar setup. For the difference incost between a well done Watt's link ($1000-$1,200)vs a well done Panhard bar ($250) you can make significant improvements thatcan make the chassis better than the improvements from the installation ofaWatt's link alone. If money is not an issue by all means consider the use of the car and select andinstalla good Watt's link and move on to the rest of the car and don't forget the driver.

Of course you could always go withthe timehonored hod-rod tradition and just go nuts. If you change your struts and dampers(D-Spec or Koni Sport) installstiffer springs that don'tlower ride height excessively (Steeda Comp or H&R) control bumpsteer (Steeda or Baer bumpsteer kits)restorethe front roll center height after lowering (Steeda X5 ball joints)get the rear axle undercontrol (GT500 LCA's and Steeda Comp/Street UCA with HD UCA Mount) and improvedrear axle lateral location (PJ Watt's link or Steeda adjustable chrome molly Panhard bar and HD brace) and reduced body roll (Steeda or Eibach/FRPP 35-36mmfront and 22-24mm rear anti-roll bars) you would have a hell of a car assumming you hadwide, lightweight wheels and sticky dry condition tires and adequate brake cooling and driver skill and experience to take advantage of the improved suspension feedback, geometry and location.

HTH!

F1Fan

Hi zkiller,

HUH?Get your facts straight,only the factory Saleen PJ cars were recalled.Any Saleen dealer will provide any previous Saleen Watt's link purchaser withthe updated brackets for free.

HTH!

ohskigod

correct, there was a recall, but any new one's installed have the new part....at least from JDM, where mine will be installed in march.

It doesnt bother me that there was a recall, its actually encouraging to see a company (Saleen) spot a problem early and resolve it.

Sleeper_08

F1Fan

Your list above;
"Of course you could always go withthe timehonored hod-rod tradition and just go nuts. If you change your struts and dampers(D-Spec or Koni Sport) installstiffer springs that don'tlower ride height excessively (Steeda Comp or H&R) control bumpsteer (Steeda or Baer bumpsteer kits)restorethe front roll center height after lowering (Steeda X5 ball joints)get the rear axle undercontrol (GT500 LCA's and Steeda Comp/Street UCA with HD UCA Mount) and improvedrear axle lateral location (PJ Watt's link or Steeda adjustable chrome molly Panhard bar and HD brace) and reduced body roll (Steeda or Eibach/FRPP 35-36mmfront and 22-24mm rear anti-roll bars) you would have a hell of a car assumming you hadwide, lightweight wheels and sticky dry condition tires and adequate brake cooling and driver skill and experience to take advantage of the improved suspension feedback, geometry and location.

is pretty well what is on my shopping list except yours does not include upper front strut mounts, e.g Steeda 555-8120. Was that an oversite or intentional?

F1Fan

Hi Sleeper_08,

Oversite, I have them and they work great and add no NHV to the front end. The Steeda HD strut bearing/mounts are isolated unlike the majority of the mounts that are using simple spherical bearings.

HTH!

Sleeper_08

F1Fan

I thought you suggested them - which is one reason why they are on my list.