Blacksmoke

Anyone know the weight of the stock GT wheels for an 06?

I'm not sure if they are the 18x8.5 chromedor the 18.8 polished but they do not list the wieghts of either one of these on the ford site and I cannot find it anywhere!!!! I am so frustrated! I cannot believe they would not list the wieght.

Can anyone help me?

partsbill

ford part# 6R3Z 1007 AA 18" X 8.5 Polished Aluminum Wheel 26lbs
ford part# 6R3Z 1007 H 18X8.5"Pol Cast Alum Brt Mach Wheel 24lbs

Blacksmoke

Thanks for the help.

I think mine were the 26 pound ones
My new Roush ones are about 28 pounds. (according to the guy on the phone from Roush)
He sounded like he did not know for sure..i don't know if he thought I had the forged chrome orthe castand I could not find the specs from roush.
Would you happen to know where I could find the specs?
Here are the wheels...
http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=683

Is this going to really slow down my acceleration if they are around 28 pounds?

Were they a bad choice?

I just wanna know what I'm dealing with.
Never know when a stock 350z is gonna ask me for a private race (hint hint)
Thanks!

Norm Peterson

A couple of pounds per wheel isn't going to make nearly enough difference to feel, though it could be enough tomatter at any timed competition if the cars/drivers were very closely matched.

With four 28-lb wheels vs four 25-lb wheels (I used an average of 24 & 26) and everything else the same, you'd take about 2.2" more distance do a second gear sprint from 30 to 60 mph and it would take you not quite 0.003 seconds more time.


Norm

Blacksmoke

So not even a tenth of a second?

Norm Peterson

Nope. Over the rest of a quarter mile the difference is about 6" and 0.005 seconds in 3rd and 5" and 0.003 seconds in 4th gear. So about a foot and a hundredth of a second total in a run that you post a 102 mph speed in, assuming that in 1st gear there is wheelspin for part of it and therefore even less difference (~1").

The spreadsheet that I worked up to make these comparisons considers quite a lot of variables. Bottom line: you probably throw away at least ten times as much from your driving on days when you aren't as sharp as you might be on others.

I'm not trying to talk you out of buying (or staying with) lighter weight wheels, because there absolutely is a theoretical advantage to be had by running them, and it's usable if you're consistently sharp. The numbers are to give you a realistic estimate from the basic physics of how much help they're actually good for assuming that you're dead-nuts consistent from day to day and from run to run.


Norm

Sam Strano

I disagree that you cannot feel the difference. Can you feel the difference with a 10-15 lighter flywheel? Of course, and we're talking about 4 flywheels instead of one. Add to that the fact this weight is all unsprung as well and that matters when the roads are bumpy. Less mass is easier to move up and down and control(running in combat boots vs. running shoes).

When I race on Volks vs. Kazera wheels it take more throttle control to keep the rear tires from igniting on the Volks (which are about 7 pounds each less than the Kazera's which in turn are 2 each less than stock) 18x8.5's. All the wheels I'm talking about are also 18x8.5.

Norm Peterson

I think we're on two slightly different pages, Sam. Near as I could tell, the original question was limited to being able to sense the difference between the acceleration results, presumably on a smooth surface.

I wasn't even going to try to tackle the issue of throttle control or the ability of the suspension to control the additional mass as effectively. Just threw that into a requirement for the driver to be dead-nuts consistent for it to matter.

I will stand firm on doubting that you'd be able to feel the difference in the two rates of acceleration. And I could re-run the numbers comparing total added wheel weight to an equivalent flywheel weight (it is not a 1:1 match and varies with which gear that you're in).


Norm

A black GT is about to be built . . .

Sam Strano

I'm just saying that you are losing a lot of rotational mass (or gaining it), and that takes power to drive. I pointed out the flywheel because a lot of folks have gone to lighter flywheels and I doubt anyone who has reports seeing no change. We're talking that kind of change here x 4. I think it's crazy to waste power driving a bunch of not only dead weight, but worse, weight that has a flywheel effect and an unsprung weight effect. At least weight in the car itself isn't rotating, and is sprung and controlled by the suspension.

Stock Ford wheels are boat anchors, and some aftermarkets are even worse. Not exactly a performance move, and it's be shown that heavier wheels do cost wheel hp. Can you feel it? I don't know that you would, but also know that I can tell noticeable difference on lighter wheels.

JMono

I recently purchased some used OEM 2006 polished bullitts. I just grabbed the bathroom scale and weighed myself, and then myself plus the one wheel. The difference was 24 lbs. These do not have TPM sensors mounted so perhaps those weigh another pound with the strap.