Sam Strano

And let that be a lesson to those that think softer shocks (less damping) will make a car ride better, particularly when stiffer, shorter springs are in use. They require better damping, not worse. Too little and the ride actually suffers.

ILikeBond

Is anyone running the Konis with Eibach Pro's? What setting do you like?

Sam Strano

I do (those springs are what's on the SGT under the guise of "Ford Racing").

Shock settings are personal (and fwiw, as a customer you are always free to call me for more detailed information). What Joe likes Bob might not. I can't really spout out settings that I work hard to come up to the general public. I've been used and abused giving out too much free advice. Here's the basic deal, and if you want more just call me.

You don't want them full soft. You don't want them full stiff. And I recommend the fronts be a bit firmer than the ultimate setting in the rear. Try something along that line as a starting point. And remember that as far as I'm concerned all the information I have and can pass on is yours as part of the purchase you made. And I do have more info for you on damping settings.

ILikeBond

Sam,

Oh, I definitely will call you when I'm ready to get my install done, which should be in the next week or two. Just thought I'd see as a starting point what people out here in Mustangland are liking for that combo. Its always interesting to hear what people like and what their ride impressions are.

BTW, I'm curious and maybe other people are, too - I know the rears adjust in the trunk, but how do you adjust the fronts on the fly? Is there access through the engine area or wheel well or something?

Thx man!

Robert S.

Just open the hood, the adjusters will be sticking up in the strut towers.

Sam Strano

I understand... but considering many of the posts I've seen here, as well as on other sites regarding shock settings I think most folks are simply guessing....

The adjustment is at the top of the damper. Where they stick through the body, that's where the adjuster is. Put the **** on and twist.

ILikeBond

Little update here. I've been running the Konis for 3 days now (on Eibach Pros), so I'm still playing.

I started by accidentally reversing Sam's recommended starting point, going 1/2 in front and 3/4 in back (turned up from full soft). The ride was quite harsh.

Once I reversed, it improved, but I still was feeling a harshness, like my body in the car was fighting the suspension a little bit, if that makes sense. Today I adjusted both sides up 1/4 turn (so 1 turn from soft in front and 3/4 turn up from full soft in rear), and I felt a significant improvement. Car seemed more "normal" and well-behaved without losing any of the precision in turns, etc.

So, as Sam has said to me several times, and as he says above, running dampers too soft can deteriorate the ride and sometimes firming them seems to be the answer (particularly when using lowering springs).

As some point I'll turn them full firm just to see how it feels, but I've already gotten a couple big jolts from bumps at a relatively soft setting, so I'm guessing its going to be like driving over logs.

Sam Strano

Again I would like to point out that ILikeBond's post illustrates exactly why I'm so adamantly for adjustable dampers. Look at the different results he's gotten from a few turns of a ****.... You don't have the option with non-adjustable shocks. If you don't like the feel, well--tough.

Folks should also notice that those running Koni's tend to run settings that seem to be lower in the range of adjustment than with D-specs. That's because the range of damping it not the same. That all adjustables are the same is an assumption that many make, and is wholly false.

Because of how the Koni's are valved, even running them at full soft will not leave you underdamped like the D-specs at or near full soft will. So in this case, you can pretty much bet that lower settings will less less firmly without a ride penalty from a lack of rebound control.

I do want to add a few other things. ILikeBond changed a lot of things at once. He's got a set of lowering springs on, he's changed wheels and tires (and any increase in unsprung weight and change in tire construction will effect ride, both of which I'm sure are present here). And he put on all poly LCA's which are a little sticky toward axle articulation. Plus the Watts.

All of those things have effects on the ride/handling. Because they all went on at once it's going to be impossible to drill down to exactly which part did which thing. Because the Koni's are adjustable at least he can play with them and do a little tuning and see what damping changed do to make things better. The only other thing he has that's adjustable is the RC height via the Watts Link, and that too will have an effect. I know it's being run in a lower setting than what I usually run and eventually a change there might result a different ride. We can't know what ILikeBond likes best until he tries it.

Sorry for the tangent. The original point was, and still remains, that those who think non-adjustable shocks are just as good as adjustables need to consider the results of those that can and have played with damping levels only to find settings they like better (and that aren't necessarily exactly the same as someone else's).

ILikeBond

Yeah, I fully intend to play with the Watts, in part to dial it in how I like best, but also in part just to isolate it from everything else. Right now its hard to differentiate certain things, particularly what benefit is coming from the dampers versus the watts. By changing the roll center and feeling the difference there, though, I should - at least in theory - be able to sort-of isolate the effect of the watts from the other stuff. Once I do that, I can set it where I like it best, then really give a more informed opinion or impression about how it feels.

Unfortunately, its been pouring where I live, basically since I installed the watts a couple days ago, so I'm not confident going very hard without yet knowing the limits of the new suspension. Supposed to rain this weekend, too, so...

I will tinker, though, that I promise, and I already know some twisty mountain roads I'm looking forward to carving up.

Sam, I'm curious - why do you prefer a higher roll center? Doesn't this add roll, and isn't that usually considered a bad thing? Or am I missing the point of adjusting up?